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Finish Question

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Mattdub:

--- Quote from: cheekythirtysix on May 28, 2010, 09:04 AM ---Cheers guys.... seems this one is open to debate with different products  :LolLolLolLol:

--- End quote ---

John ,

I've had some bits clear anno'ed ( Redline chainwheels , Campagnolo cranks ) , I'll send some pics later if I have some  ;) .

If you look at Waxin's 7B's in the Custom Colour thread ^^ , I think after some quite considerable resto work ( to get rid of deep scratches/nicks etc ) these were re-anno'ed Silver ( Rich can confirm ) .

jT Racing:
depends on whether it was polished before it was anodised i guess. all anodising is clear(well the layer is grown out of the ally itself), it has to be dyed to achieve a colour before it's sealed, that's why blacks more expensive because it takes longer and is harder to dye. i have some shiny and some dull anodised stuff, the shiny rims i have look nice, but it's not shiny like polished.

Redline:
Thanks again guys... reason I ask is because I'll be after some silver parts at some point and although I like the look of some of the parts which are highly polished I'm a stickler for originality so if I resto say some rims I want them to look as they should from BITD and not necessarily what may look better if ya know what I mean  :daumenhoch:

John

customparts:
hope my input helps, silver and clear anodising is the same. its all down to the prep work for the final outcome,  you can still polish out all the nicks and scratches and still have it looking old and original.  Thats what i did with waxin's (rich's) wheels i did these a certain way to make them look as they where BITD. TRADE SECRET ;)
I prefer the original look but i only do what the customer ask for,  depending what the part is and where its going it can look nice polished up but everyone is different.
You do get a duller look with more anodising film on and is more hard wearing just like the proclass hard anodised ones. We work in microns (build up of anodised film on the aluminium) so standard ano film for clear/silver is 5-10 microns and the proclass hard ano ones could be between 30-50 microns thats why you get a darker look but they is more to the hard ano one's though ie temperatures, acid strengths,  different material.
So you can still polish like mad but take it back to original. just like the suntour seat clamp above that can be put back to how it looked!

 :daumenhoch:

oldtired:
interesting that customparts, love owt technical, seen the bits on here,  defo  skill and secrets involved ,was undecided weather to go that far with the clamp because the rough cuts sorted out the dinks , but got a new finish block so had to have go with it  :LolLolLolLol: 

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