Technical & Reference Section > Tech and Restoration

Is there a less brutal way of removing sealed profile type bb bearings?

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harris:
yes most should come out .also if you ever damage a set take them to your local bearing supplies they will do you a top replacement set for £8

oberonspacefruit:
you learn summat new every day.

well. i do.

not you thicko's.

stoke bloke:
yes mate , the bearings will come out  of the alloy cases . also knocking the spacer out of the way is the key. you don't have to knock it completely out of the way just enough to expose a bit of the bearing case , enough for a punch,bar , dowel etc to lock onto the edge. give it a wack with a a hammer  the spacer should then fall away or be easily knocked out of the way.
 once the spacer is out of the way just give the cases a couple of wacks sp? at different posititions from the backside , ie poke the dowel , punch bar etc through the whole where the crank shaft goes.  don't be alarmed too much if you have to hit it really hard . :D.
 from my experiences in the past you start off with a wooden dowel and a toffee hammer and timidly start tapping awaylike some limp wristed faggot , get gradually more and more pissed off with the thing and work your way up through arange of implements and hammers until you are whacking away with a lump hammer and a solid 20mm bar ;D
 don't worry about the lump taken out of the housing , just stick it on the chainring side of the bike facing downwards, no one will ever see it . you bike polishers ;)
 you'll sort it

oberonspacefruit:
i did the lump in the first tap.

i laugh at your bike polisher remark.

you obviously havnt seen my newschool/oldschool seatpost....

greentoad:
Hi

They should come out with time and care. I had some sealed bearings stuck in the cups on my Cali with single crank. I did not want to damage them as the BB and Head Set are all black and with the bearings being small and the cups large did not want to have to hunt for NOS.

I had only a few mill of movement as that is all the crank would allow, so used a pick as this was the smallest tool that I had and fitted this inside and tapped gently after a good spray of WD. I worked around the bearing in a clock patern and then as they moved slightly (the sharp pick end went through the case and onto the hardened bearings, so had maximum force) and could finally get a long and thin flat head screwdriver in (flatted on a wheel disc to get a wider end) and tapped again this time on the case, then when this side moved a liitle more went in from the other side and started the process again as I did not want to stress the BB or the seat post area.

I got them both out by alternating sides and they are in fine condition with no damage at all, and it only took at most 45 minutes.

Punches are not that good  in my opinion, as they are generally wide and as such if you go through a hole and tap, you are doing this at an angle and will also be hitting another object (BB) with the other side of the punch (hope that makes sense).

J.

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