Technical & Reference Section > Tech and Restoration

haro sport 2006 brake problem

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TwoBobRob:
Wolfie.....  Not that I want to piss on your chips,  but even though I know your setup is factory correct,  I far prefer the setup the others have shown. Its how i run my brake, and always will.  There are no frictional losses, whereas with your setup as the lever is pulled the frictional losses are compounded as the straddle tries to garrot the seattube.

Also,  I would space the blocks so as to allow a wider gap between brake arms;  helps with the old leverages a bit.

Just my tuppenceworth......   ;)

Rombloke:
my mirra came with that criss-cross set up and didnt work at all, thats why i went for that bigger straddle, as the factory one was just letting the cables rub the paint off the frame, never a good idea...but when i went for the more direct route(not criss cossed) my brakes seemed to work spot bollock on.

Dave

motomagII:
first thing i changed on me flair was to get rid of the cale guide round the tube and uncross the cable as it was already set up.works a treat . perfection isnt always as it should be . :LolLolLolLol:

wolfybmx:
each to their own as they say :)

BrianP:
anyone ever used the sst amplifier thing u get on some complete bikes?

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