Technical & Reference Section > Tech and Restoration

OG fatgoose 170 update

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Wadz:
could you fit and internal sleve in the bottom bracket ,leaving it short effort to just fit the bearing cups as normal might streathen things up with out losing the looks.

snoopy72:
It's also knowing where it will make a difference without bracing it everywhere, I could brace it like Jay suggested but maybe I would get the same effect along side the rectangle to the bb ?

snoopy72:

--- Quote from: Wadz on June 01, 2014, 09:18 PM ---could you fit and internal sleve in the bottom bracket ,leaving it short effort to just fit the bearing cups as normal might streathen things up with out losing the looks.

--- End quote ---

Can't do that because I still need to have the arms the same difference apart and it's the extra leverage that's causing the problem.
To be fair, might be better off leaving it , my standard mongoose frame flexes nearly as bad, i think all steel bicycle frames have a bit of flex there from what I have read.

snoopy72:
Just had a thought,  if I do a gusset like Jay suggested matching the 75/76 goose on the drive side , which will eliminate up and down movement and on the left hand side another matching gusset but along side the rectangle to brace left and right movement.
It will help with stiffening it up but save all the weight of making match pairs of brackets

Two offset gussets with matching drill holes of a 76

Gnarlyscoots:
To be honest, you will find those alloy cranks flex a lot too.

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