Technical & Reference Section > Tech and Restoration

polishing Parts?

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NORTY40:
Here you go Graham , copy and pasted from the site i sent you  ;)


A) Condition of the metal with determine where you start.
B) Speed the mops runs at.
C) Quality of the metal. Its does vary and a bad casting can cause problems.
D) Abrasives, get a good even surface with no deep scratches to ensure a deep mirror finish.
E) Make sure you remove the marks left from a previous process
F) If possible try to alter the direction of the polishing for each process, even if only by a few degrees.
G) Do not overload polishing mops with compound. You will deposit grease on the work surface.
H) Use safety equipment, glasses and dust mask. Dust is never nice. Polish outdoors if you have no extraction.
I) Vienna Lime can be used after polishing to reomove light grease and finger marks etc. If the work needs degreaseing then a solvent like white spirit works well.
J) If the mop becomes clogged or dirty after use has been left on shelf for a long time for example then use a mop dresser or wheel rake to bring new life into the mop. Never wash mops in water
K) Use one compound per mop. This keeps everything simple for example if you are using a sisal mop with grey compound try not to change. It is possible to change compound but make sure the old compound has been removed. Tools like mop dressers and wheels rakes are ideal for this application.
L) Please do not use cheap compounds such as silverline, there are many brands such as menzerna or canning who have been selling high quality polishes for over 75 years. I do not know a single professional polisher who uses a brand such as silverline for polishing compounds.



Polishing Steel, Stainless Steel & Iron.
If the metal is in a poor condition then abrasives will be needed. Thats where experience of polishing comes in, looking at then metal and knowing what process you need to start at.
You will need to get the surface to 240/400 grit before you start polishing at process 1.
If the condition of metal is not too bad or you have the surface to 600 grit + then you could start at process 2.

Process 1 (Burnishing) Grey 523LBZ compound with a sisal polishing mop
Process 2 (Prepolishing) Green 439T compound with a white close stitched polishing mop
Process 3 (Polishing) Blue P164 Compound or Rose P126 Compound with a Loose G quality
Process 4 (Finishing) P175 for super finishing with a Loose WDR quality mop


Polishing Aluminium.
Not as hard as the above metals, steel etc. When polishing aluminium if you are getting small holes that appear when you are polishing, stop. These can not polished out they are due to the casting and if you keep polishing you will get more holes appear. Best just buff up if this happens for damage limitation.
If the metal is in a poor condition then abrasives will be needed. Thats where experience of polishing comes in, looking at then metal and knowing what process you need to start at.
You will need to get the surface to 240/400 grit before you start polishing at process 1.
If the condition of metal is not too bad or you have the surface to 600 grit + then you could start at process 2.
Some people prefer to use the green compound on Process 1 with a sisal rather than the grey.
There are a couple of option on finishing, P126 Rose is a superb finisher but for that extra special job P175 can be used.
For thin sheet Aluminium we have a new fine finishing compound available 480F, this is a light green compound thats is more greasy than the normal finishing compounds which keeps the surface cooler.
Process 1 (Burnishing) Green 439T compound with a sisal polishing mop
Process 2 (Prepolishing) Green 439T compound with a white close stitched polishing mop
Process 3 (Polishing) Blue P164 Compound or Blue 480BLF (compound formulated for aluminium) with a Loose G quality
Process 4 (Finishing) P175 for super finishing with a Loose WDR quality mop


You can use a Dremel with a small polishing mop on to get to the awkward areas .  This shop sells everything you need  :daumenhoch: 

Feel free to PM me if you want or are unsure what mops or compounds to use but this list is pretty easy to follow .

hokuspokus74:
Ah good man Joffy  :daumenhoch: been out in the man cave letting my eldest boy strip down 2 bikes saves me getting my hands dirty for a change >:D lol ah hes getting there, he needs to be more wreckless on the courses though then he be like me  :LolLolLolLol:

Skratchski:
Graham, get a flat hard solid surface as well, i use a marble cutting slab, helps when polishing flat stuff, like pedal sides, came in very handy when doing my hutch stem as its all flat angles place wet and dry on slab an hold part flat to it. stops you rounding stuff off thats meant to be flat.
On alloy i did 320 grit, 400, 600, 1200 then polish.

hokuspokus74:
I think ive got a piece of quinn stone worktop left over from our kitchen,it just like granite etc so i take it that will do,i must get it out off the drawer and give it a blast on it,.....its getting to know what all these wee dremel bits are for etc,some of the wee buffing wheels in it are fooking useless etc :laugh:

hokuspokus74:
Hey joffy maybe you and the other guys that polish on here should make video's and put them up on youtube :daumenhoch:,i did a pro-class power disc or spider what ever it is ,but its not the finish on it am looking,plus while doing it i nearly took my head of with it when the buffer pulled it out of my hands lol think i need armoured plated suit :LolLolLolLol: :daumenhoch:

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