Technical & Reference Section > Tech and Restoration
anodiser_chick Anodizing **PLEASE READ**UPDATED CRANKS RETURNED**
snoopy72:
I've had the same , some items are fingers crossed.
I just had a gold chain ring stripped (not by Jay) and done in silver and that's a little patchy in places but it's not on a completely flat area so not really noticeable when fitted.
I think there is a fine line of an item being stripped and it not coming out of the vat at all.
It's difficult working with different grade alloys
Chris123:
--- Quote from: Munnyella on May 25, 2015, 09:59 PM ---I have had issues with anodising (not Jay) Old member on here (Ronster) made me a new school sized hutch style seatclamp, it was a beauty, polished, it looked flawless, after a while, when having a few other bits anno'd blue locally, I decided i'd chuck the clamp in too.
When I went to collect it, the guy was really apologetic, every thing was spot on, apart from the clamp, was real patchy and dull, looked bloody awful, so he stripped it in front of me, and it was beautiful shiny ally!
It was machined from a bit of billet, and as Ronnie works for an F1 team, i'm sure it was a good quality lump, but maybe the runny hot metal wasn't stirred up properly in the billet foundry.
MM
--- End quote ---
A lot of the higher strength grades won't anodise as bright as 6000 series for example. Blue does tend to be patchy.
Chris123:
--- Quote from: skki3330 on May 20, 2015, 10:05 PM ---
SBD has done all of my powder coating and the few times i have given him a frame/forks that have problems he has always spoken to me BEFORE going any further with the work and i must say every time he has suggest which way to got the fix comes out spot on.
--- End quote ---
Completely different process's. With powdercoating you'd know of any problems before you started. With anodising you are likely to only to find out after you've started. And by then it can be too late.
A lot of old bmx parts are crap to anodise. Back when they were made the anodising company knew what aluminium was used to made the part. Therefore they'd know any pre/post anodising process's for that grade of aluminium, some of them are essential to prevent pitting on cast etc.
Anodising old parts now - you would have no idea of the grade or how well it anodises (forgetting billet for a minute).
Any corrosion (and a lot of parts have been bare aluminium for 20 years) will show, stripping the anodising makes the putting worse and then anodising will make the pitting worse again. It need to be removed but that isn't always possible.
I've had NOS billet parts still in original packaging that are pitted. They look fine until they are re-anodised and then show the pitting.
So, there as lots of reasons anodising goes wrong, usually it's because of the aluminium used in the part and you can't really blame the anodiser for that!
She's obviously done a lot to try and sort them out. I'm sure it would have been the same outcome if you'd used a company with a minimum order in three figures, only difference being they'd have given them back to you and not tried to rectify them.
snoopy72:
--- Quote from: Chris123 on June 19, 2015, 02:35 AM ---
--- Quote from: skki3330 on May 20, 2015, 10:05 PM ---
SBD has done all of my powder coating and the few times i have given him a frame/forks that have problems he has always spoken to me BEFORE going any further with the work and i must say every time he has suggest which way to got the fix comes out spot on.
--- End quote ---
Completely different process's. With powdercoating you'd know of any problems before you started. With anodising you are likely to only to find out after you've started. And by then it can be too late.
A lot of old bmx parts are crap to anodise. Back when they were made the anodising company knew what aluminium was used to made the part. Therefore they'd know any pre/post anodising process's for that grade of aluminium, some of them are essential to prevent pitting on cast etc.
Anodising old parts now - you would have no idea of the grade or how well it anodises (forgetting billet for a minute).
Any corrosion (and a lot of parts have been bare aluminium for 20 years) will show, stripping the anodising makes the putting worse and then anodising will make the pitting worse again. It need to be removed but that isn't always possible.
I've had NOS billet parts still in original packaging that are pitted. They look fine until they are re-anodised and then show the pitting.
So, there as lots of reasons anodising goes wrong, usually it's because of the aluminium used in the part and you can't really blame the anodiser for that!
She's obviously done a lot to try and sort them out. I'm sure it would have been the same outcome if you'd used a company with a minimum order in three figures, only difference being they'd have given them back to you and not tried to rectify them.
--- End quote ---
Good post :daumenhoch: the chain ring I mentioned in a previous post that was new with no pitting, was gold, I gave it to the anodiser to dye it natural silver, it came out with some striping in places, now I'm not blaming the anodiser because I'm aware of the process but my most concern is even though the whole thing is now silver will it be protected in the stripy areas because I think this happened in the stripping process, it is all anodised but tends to matt of the aluminium in places making it patchy.
If you look closely at the chain ring in the 12 o'clock area you'll see what I mean.
rodriguez:
I've got a couple of bits I need doing and I hope Annodiser Chick will do them think I'll take my chances.
I've some parts sitting for a few years and was originally going to use CCA but then I heard a few horror stories so decided to leave it, thing is no one ever mentioned the balls ups with CCA on the open forum I only heard through chatting to a guy who had loads of stuff done by them.
Some balls ups where due to the type/quality of the alloy and some caused by them being a bit unreliable.
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