Technical & Reference Section > Tech and Restoration

Spray painting advice please

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mivvi:
Hi all, I just wanted some advice on painting parts. I enjoy restoring items but I would like a better finish than I'm achieving with rattle cans. Would anyone know more about this? I didn't really want to go down the route of a big compressor, regulators etc but thought there might be something in between? I also don't know what type of paint to use, 2 pack, acrylic, cellulose? I have looked at the 'Air brush' kits with everything you need in them but would this just be for very small items? I'm looking for doing stems, hubs, cranks etc, not big areas.

I admire the work that SBD does and I do have a frame that I want him to do but I think sending every little part to him that I need doing would get pricey. I have a Hutch frame he done a while back, and its stunning, fair play!

Thanks for any advice  :daumenhoch:   

deeman:
You can achieve a ' factory' finish with rattle cans.....just need to follow a few simple rules!
Like most paint jobs, half the quality of the job is in the preparation. Assuming you have prepared the item i.e sanded etc then you need to

1.use a panel wipe or degreaser on the bare item
2. use an etch primer on bare metal (available in cans) Upol works well...
3. SHAKE THE CAN WELL!
4. Apply a dust coat first...let dry for a couple of minutes before hitting with a heavier coat. Leave for 5 mins then hit it with a gloss coat. always work in good light so you can see the paint building up. always use side to side motion. It is better to put too little on than too much resulting in drips/ runs. best to practice on an old bit of metal first
5. HEAT is important...in the middle of summer you won't really have a problem but a heat gun or hair dryer is a very handy tool to heat the item and the air around it, then to help the paint dry between coats
6. When the base coat is dry, flat it with P3000 wet n dry and water to remove any orange peel effect or small imperfections you may have had from spraying.
7. Spray with laqeur, much the same as the base coat, building it up gradually I swear by HICOTE laqeur, the double concentrated stuff in the small stubby cans...it is leagues above everything else and can be flatted with the P3000 when dry and T -cutted to a factory shine.

Hope all this helps, if you are unsure of anything you are welcome to pm me...
Damo  :daumenhoch:

BMX1973:
Great advice  :daumenhoch:

Just looking up them Hicote cans on ebay, should we use the Matt or Clear Lacquer?

mivvi:
Hi Damo,
Thanks so much for your post. I really didn't want to go down the route of the full spraying setup as it really wouldn't get enough use. I have achieved good results in the past with rattle cans but it all seems to go wrong when I start with the lacquer. I either get a reaction with the base paint in a few mins, or as two parts I done last year, they turned out great but a year down the line are covered with hairline cracks in the lacquer? Am I supposed to be waiting a set time to fix the clear coat? An hour/24 hours?

I usually only spray items in the warmer weather but need to remember as you have pointed out that the temperature is important. I have been using Plasti-cote recently, only as it seems to everywhere now but will source the makes you mentioned.

Well thank's again, I really appreciate your time giving me those pointers. Top lad  :daumenhoch: 

deeman:

--- Quote from: BMX1973 on April 30, 2018, 05:23 PM ---Great advice  :daumenhoch:

Just looking up them Hicote cans on ebay, should we use the Matt or Clear Lacquer?

--- End quote ---


the clear laquer...it is fantastic stuff, goes on any base coat and is actually thick and can be flatted and polished unlike any other aerosol laquer...and I have tried pretty much everything over the years. I only use this stuff on all my projects! I have even painted a car wing with it. The key is in the flatting and polishing...it doesn't matter if you get a couple of coats on and it is a bit dry / orange peely, just get enough on without runs...use the P3000 with water and GENTLY flat til smooth then T cut. best to leave an hour or so between coats ...can usually be flatted after a couple of hours :daumenhoch:

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