Technical & Reference Section > Tech and Restoration
Rocking horse poo
Midschoolfool:
The poo is real. And man, it's light. Holy crap.
I've never seen dropouts so small. Pegs will need to be ground for this one...
Lawsuit in 3-2-1....
Frame is in overall superb shape with no grinds or rash. There is one tiny ding in the down tube but it's incredibly hard to photo. I knew about that, he was totally honest. Will JB weld it.
I then decided to "pre wrap" the decals. The helicopter tape is pretty thick. However, it's also strong enough to take a stone strike in its stride so the decals will last forever. I wanted to pre shape them so they are easier to fit come fitting time.
They seem to have relaxed on there nicely. Will take them off in a day or so but keep them taped as a cylinder.
Rear ones need trimming later, then I will do those also.
Midschoolfool:
Ahhhhh bike building. Gotta love it :LolLolLolLol:
And the hype train reached 500mph. It then crashed into a brick wall, burst into flames and exploded.
The Haro wheels won't work. The drops on the frame are 10mm. "OK I will file the axle" then I realised I could see daylight through the axle. It's hollow, meaning I can't file it down. There will be nothing left of it.
I've pulled the tyres. Later on I will try the Haro wheels on my Metal. I have a few parts to fit to it, so yeah will give that a try. I know they are 10mm female axles, and I am pretty sure the Metal frame is 14. In which case it should go OK.
Midschoolfool:
Well what a massive fooking ballache that was.
That said it was much less of a ball ache that buying a new rear hub @ 130 quid+ then paying ?45 in spokes and labour. They don't look that bad actually with my new SNAFU ends on the bars and SNAFU lever.
So now I have some ODY Quadrants laced to Sunday sealed hubs with 10mm female axles.
Midschoolfool:
Nearly 8 hours to do a job that should have taken 5 minutes ffs.
The tyre is bloody miles away. I thought for sure it was going to hit. Just shows how tiny that back end really is.
Midschoolfool:
Ah ok. It seems there were issues with this frame. Lots of S&Ms have the same issue. However, thankfully I have had this issue twice now, so I know exactly how to fix it.
Someone told me tonight that the CW has brake issues. Like, getting the pads to pull onto the rim. So I did some experiments with that. First I tried the Mission brake I have, known for its clown tyre clearance.
Now bear in mind that is a worst case scenario, with the axle all the way into the frame. The more you can bring the wheel back the better line you get with your pads. However, I wanted to test worst case here.
Now as you can see the Proper pad lines up fine. The actual brake biting surface of the pad is perfectly in line with the inner rim. However, when I fitted the same pad to the other arm I had issues. The spacing between the pad meant that the top of the arm was hitting the tyre. "OK I will remove some spacing from the inside of the pad". Problem is like many modern pads they are not threaded far down enough to be able to do that. You remove spacing you lose thread.
I then looked at the pads that came on the Haro. Just some cheap things. However, the spacing inside was much smaller.
And again the actual brake surface of the pad was perfectly in line, worse case scenario. However, this time I got about 5mm clearance with the arm and the tyre.
Now I can dial that even more when I move to plan B. Plan B involves buying a die so that I can thread more of the effing pad :LolLolLolLol:
OK. Issue two that has been pointed out to me. Drive line issues. Apparently the chain hits the rear stays. Now this would scare me shitless, had I not ran into this issue twice in the last f*****g year :angrysoapbox:
This issue is caused by the super modern geometry, and aforementioned clown tyres. Kids today be like "wahhh, waahhhh, I want a short back end and big massive honking tyres!". And thus, by the time you space the arms out enough to clear the rear end the sprocket is about a mile from the frame. Meaning, your chain will hit the frame. The problem is not with the back end as I was told. No. The problem is with the 60 odd MM BB shell and getting the sprocket where it needs to be, whilst still spacing balls off of your arms. The fix, which I have employed twice in a year (very recently on the T1) is simply this.
Arm - spacer - sprocket. However, you need to remember to space out the sprocket bolt also, or you bend the chainwheel. I did exactly the same on the T1, and no doubt I will do it here also.
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