Technical & Reference Section > Tech and Restoration
2hip Root Down take 2.
Midschoolfool:
Demasked.
And with the sprocket.
That should be just enough to make the bars work. I have a really nice white Odyssey hanger that came with the Evo 2. I didn't use it because the CW has a London mod. Don't have a pic to hand. I also found a white lower cable I bought for the CW that again I did not use due to it being modded at the end. I have ordered a blue upper cable to go with it.
I am going home tomorrow, so will do the frame when I come back in a week or so. I wanted the parts done first, as the frame is the most work/prep etc. I hate going through all of the crap of painting a frame, then realising I have parts left to do.
Midschoolfool:
OK just went up in the loft to tidy up a bit and sort parts. These are the brake parts etc. All the small shit.
This is the hanger I had. Looked it up, they are a tenner. So that was a result.
I've been asked why I am painting the frame. TBH? I understand why people ask. This came as a complete bike. About ?350 IIRC. However, it's probably rarer than the Soul and the Pork. Nowhere near as desirable, but I have never seen another. Ever. I've seen a few Soul and Pork. Maybe at some point I will contact Ron and ask him if he ever sold these in the UK. It's possible someone may have imported it as a complete if he didn't. Any way, this is why I am painting it.
It looks like a lot of scratches and scrapes, but it isn't. It's rust developing under the paint in spider web formations. There is a lot of it up near the head tube and gussets, and I really want it gone. There are lots of scrapes too mind, I suppose it doesn't look all that bad in pics because it's black. So it's harder to notice.
Right. I will see you boys in about a week's time, enjoy the football and COME ON ENGLAND !
Midschoolfool:
Due to the shit weather I don't have a lift until Weds. So, I bought some cranks.
The astute among you will notice I have not used Powerbites. For a few reasons. They are either battered to F, or they are silly money. There were a few sets going lately, ?199. That's daft. I was poking around on the bay late last night and I spotted these.
For 15 quid each. Now note, these are right side arms. I also found the axle.
From the same place for 20 quid.
It's the 14mm bolt version. This turned out to be a small error on my part, as he had the original M8 one which would have cost me 0 given I have lots of M8 crank bolts. However, in this instance I am going to get Ti bolts for 23 quid. Now, they are right sided arms. So I have two choices here. Buy a 5/8 tap and send it all to my friend with the machines.
That is 13 quid. The tungsten sleeves cost 4.99.
However, he is super busy right now having his house renovated. And I know if I nagged him he would do it regardless, but then I would rightly feel like a total dick. So I'm not. Instead I am going to buy two sets of pedals and just use both right sides. And yeah, you'd be right in assuming that they may come undone when ridden. This is why I will be using red thread locker. Which only lets go at 400 degrees.
Because when I sat down and thought about it I knew that I will not be riding this bike. Probably not ever. So what is the point? not like it will ever come loose just sitting there, or maybe with me at a show just ponsing around on it a bit.
This left me with one last issue. I bought a 19mm U.S BB. So, all I have to do is smack out the bearings and get a 22mm. Which again started out being 25 quid. Then I happened upon this from Moore Large (remember those 4.99 Velo saddles?) and it cost me 12 quid.
So all in the cranks and BB cost me 65 quid. Add some bolts? about 85. For a NOS set of powerbites with a new BB (they don't come with them). Which IMO is a proper bargain. For 20 more I could get them done properly too, but I just don't see the point in it. Red thread locker will never let go of that pedal any way.
Midschoolfool:
Right. Change of order and very slight change of plans.
I know 100% I will not be riding this bike. My buddy is busy ATM with building work on his house, so I changed things a bit. Firstly I thought that axle I bought would be easy to find bolts for. It's not. Not at all. You have one choice, as it's 14mm with 1mm pitch (IE pretty much unheard of). The only choice is Ti, and they are ?26. What's the point? it was supposed to be a cheap set of new looking cranks. So, I emailed the seller and mercifully he opened the parcel he was about to ship and changed it for a V1 axle.
Which I found out is the original, solid axle. The 14mm one is hollow. I then looked at what bolts the V1 used (which I will now be getting) and.
Those are the original V1 solid axle bolts. In the listing it says "8mm". Meaning they are just M8, the same as pretty much every 8 spline cranks I have ever had has. Even better I have about 5 spare sets. Even better than that the U.S BB came with a set. God knows why. Which is good. This means that I paid 25 quid for the two mid to U.S cups I needed and two brand new arm bolts. I can then just use that cheap 22mm I bought for everything else.
Then I spotted that the arms do not come with the pinch bolts. However, again I managed to find out that they are just M8 stem bolts pretty much. Which brought back memories of my mate telling me in 1998 (when I bought some V1s) that "If you snap the bolts don't worry they are just stem bolts".
OK. So so far then switching to these cranks has cost me ?65. ?54 for the arms and axle, and ?11 for a BB. The rest I had to buy any way. So, I then thought "Right, I need to now buy two sets of cheap pedals and use both right ones !" only, that isn't a good idea. See, the bodies are different. If you have two of the same side they won't look right. So, then I figured "Well I am going to have to buy two sets and take the right axle out of one and put it in a left" which would work. However, then I realised I was never ever going to ride this bike so I may as well go up and strip out the pedals I bought on sale (for 4 and 12 quid a pair respectively) and try and use a right axle out of one of those.
Initially I stripped out a Federal pedal (the 4 quid ones). It was really easy. Then I started to strip out the Kink left side pedal I bought. Only, I forgot it would turn the other way and managed to do it up really tight. In the process I manged to twist the keyed washer around and it got jammed. Then I had a two hour slog trying to get it out. I finally managed to (and 45 mins of that was me trying to make my 15mm socket thinner with a belt sander so it would fit in the pedal). I failed. Eventually I managed to free the washer, only to find I thought I had mangled the thread on the pedal axle. Again, more messing around. Finally I realised a piece of the washer was making it jam and pulled it out.
Got the axle out, only to find that the Federal R axle was not even close to working. So, I took apart those honkingly loud Tiffany coloured Primo plastic pedals I also bought on sale. Now with this axle the back side worked and it went in. However, it was much thinner than the Kink axle at the other end and thus the bearing nut (with the race on) was no good. So, I dropped in the Kink bearing nut (which was too big) and then put on the Primo bearing nut which bit into the centre of the kink bolt making it central, then put on the washer and finally the Primo pedal lock nut.
It worked ! hurrah !. So I put on red thread locker and rebuilt it.
Go to wind it into the right side crank arm and..... I had used the left side pedal spindle out of the Primo FFS.
Now thankfully I realised this just in time, as the red thread locker was starting to congeal. Had it gone off? I would never have gotten the pedal apart again. This stuff needs 400f to free it. However, I did manage to get it apart, then strip *another* effing pedal and then rebuild it *again* and I now have a set of L&R Kink pedal bodies both with R side axles.
Yeah yeah, I know, TL;DR.
The short version.
I have a set of pedals that will fit into the crank arms without driving my mate eppy by asking him to machine them and fit a collar :LolLolLolLol:
And I saved money. Which is a first for me, because usually I don't give a shit :LolLolLolLol:
Midschoolfool:
OK. So the cranks arrived today. These are both M8. However, as you can see they are very different. This was my big fear.
One is standard M8 1.25 pitch (the stem type bolt) the other (old broken spare) umbrella bolt is M8. But, it has no pitch assigned. This was a real head mess for a while. It turns out it is M8 fine. That's it, just fine. No 1mm or .75 etc. I wasn't sure what the cranks would need. I have a big pile of both. So I was praying that the spindle took the M8 fine umbrellas and the arms the 1.25. My prayers were answered, PHEW.
So there it is. If you ever end up with a set of these cranks and they are V1 with the solid axle you need M8 fine umbrella bolts and M8 standard for the arms ! Given this was the 0 pounds solution I bought two sets of these Fly Ruben Graphite in white.
And will do an axle swap, and I got four pegs too.
Because the fork is far too awesome not to have pegs on the peg mounts.
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