Technical & Reference Section > Tech and Restoration
Oink oink.
Midschoolfool:
I would imagine by the time I am done a lot of it will come off tbh. I tend to get them built, then as time goes on and parts show up I upgrade them.
The first thing will be the wheel set. I will find a front hub at some point, then lace these rims up.
The cranks will not get changed. Nor will the pedals I would imagine. Other stuff though will be upgraded.
Midschoolfool:
OK so I bought a dual pull lever that I wasn't too happy with on account of it being enormous. It didn't matter one bit, because the parts off it were worth what I paid. As such.
I converted that mid school lever to dual pull. And apply.
Really happy with that. Bars are OG slam bars, so of course are new but 100% made to original spec, the lever is mid school and some T1 grips.
SDF:
In the 1990's Slam bars were the only bars that never bent in me. Still got them fitted to my Pk Ripper now,great bars.👍
Midschoolfool:
The Standard bars were what I rode at that time. No breaking those either :LolLolLolLol:
But yeah, I must say I am a 4pc hater. Nearly every bike I have has 2pc on. Just glad S&M remade those. Otherwise I would have had to track down an uncut set (nearly impossible) and then restore them. That's the problem when you have a mint frame tbh, it looks kinda cack with rider condition parts on. Rod+back.
Talking of parts. I am going to restore the Kink Empire fork I have. 1999, U.S made. The Superfork on there is Taiwanese, and besides the Kink are rocking horse poo so I have to use them on something. They were going on the STA, but then the ditch fork turned up.
Now the original decal on those looked like this.
But, there is one thing rarer than an original Rochester made frame and that is the fork. So obviously I ain't gonna find those. What I did find is these.
I also need to now make a upper cable for the lever. And this comes with problems. I can't use knarps on the XUFO as it is made to take ball ends only (that was how in the end I got them to stay in, due to the frame being too wide) so I was either going to have to spend 15 quid on SLIC cables and cut them up for the longer ball ended part, or, find these :LolLolLolLol:
The knarps will go behind the cable barrel at the lever. I would have cut up a gyro cable, but none are long enough on the dual part. Mostly because they join into one and use that for the rest of the length. I have the left over of the S&M red linear cable I bought to make the outers, so I just need to order a set of knarps.
I also got this for it.
Oh yeah and this.
Figured it was about time I used a real one lol.
Midschoolfool:
OK more done. Not building the wheels, as SJS seem to be a bit tardy on shipping things out. Mercifully they are coming tomorrow. I don't want a marathon sesh, so I will just do the rear wheel first. The front needs to wait just a bit longer, as I shall now explain.
OK. So the game here is to make the tanky parts as light as humanly (and safely) possible. Now my initial idea was to have a female Ti axle made, then get Ti axle bolts. The thing is, from hours upon hours of research NO ONE has ever done that. And, there could well be a very valid reason for it. Titanium as a material is extremely strong, until it isn't. It gives no warning, no notice, and when it fails it does so in spectacular fashion. Now yeah, I want this thing as light as I can make it, but I don't want it dangerous. My pal is also a bit stand offish about working with it too.
So I was brain storming a little trying to think of ways to make the front hub lighter. I mean, obviously if an axle snaps or fails you want it to be the rear one. Because at worst you would fall on your padded arse. If a front one snaps? yeah oucho. Sooo, recently when doing the STA I realised that modern female front hubs have the same bearing OD as a 14mm front axle does. Mostly because they are not much more than a hollowed out, cut down 14mm axle. They look like this.
And as such take a 10mm (or 3/8 fine usually) bolt. Now recently when messing around in the loft I smacked apart a brand new female front wheel, and, this happened.
The bugger literally went straight in. Now I did have to keep the bearings from the mid school hub (it's a Diamondback btw in case you can't place that D) but the axle and its sleeves were a direct fit. Meaning I did not have to cut my Ditch fork, nor file down the axle.
Which is perfect, eh. The female axle is a F load lighter due to being hollow cro mo, and the sleeves on it are nothing more than alu spacers. So I looked into doing the same again. I managed to find an axle on Alan's (eww gob spit) for twenty quid. Plus 4 quid shipping.
But. It does not include the spacers. Now some of these are screw on, and some just literally push on. The ones I did recently from that RANT wheel were push on, but whatever the fact is you need them as they come out the full width of the 100mm. So that meant that axle was out, as it needs specific spacers. I think it is a Colony, so I would have to have found those screw on ones and then pay ?10 or more for more axle bolts. So by the time I did that? I would have been out about 45 quid.
Common sense then denoted that it was better to hunt down a used front hub, and rob it for parts. And so I did. Got this Eclat for 15 quid plus a fiver posted, and so 20 all in.
At which point I then stripped down my 13 pound China hub.
And am now ready when the Eclat arrives to rebuild it. What amazed me was how light the hub shell was. Like, really really light. The bulk of that nearly half a kilo weight (I shit you not) is the solid 14mm axle and the steel hardware.
However, I am not content with simply changing it to a hollow female one with alu hardware. Nope ! I am going to get Ti bolts for it.
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