Technical & Reference Section > Tech and Restoration

chain stretching

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SaMAlex:

--- Quote from: OrgasmDonor on August 28, 2007, 11:59 AM ---the top hat washer holding the c/ring in place was not a perfectly tight fit, would say about 1/2 mm out, would that be enough to cause a huge difference in tension d'ya reckon?

--- End quote ---

Quite a small offset on the chainring could cause quite a big difference in the tension. An offset of say, 0.5 mm is added to one side and taken away from the other so it could be 1mm out. Hold a spanner or screw driver still against the chainstay of the frame near the chainring teeth, and then spin the chainring (look out for the crank arms!). This will show you how much it is moving by. You can also see the freewheel float if you hold the cranks still and spin the wheel forwards. You will see the freewheel teeth moving up and down as the wheel spins inside it.

Philbert:
could be a bent rear axle. had to replace mine not long ago to cure the same problem! frreewheel/casette will bob as its not spinning true! hence the tight spots in the chain

OrgasmDonor:

--- Quote from: Lazarou on August 28, 2007, 12:01 PM ---What cranks chainwheel and freewheel are you using Daz?

--- End quote ---

gt profiles, mirage power disc, mcs chainring

the hubs are brand spankers and almost definately not bent

will check freewheel float n stuff later, and will report back if i find anything,

thanks for now dudes :daumenhoch:

Lazarou:
I think if you tried a one piece chainwheel (profile etc.) with a snug top hat washer the problem will go away, in my experience ols school spiders aren't great with more modern cranks. That's just my experience however, i'm often wrong!

RATTY:
I get the same problem on my race bike, it gets pretty critical because the chain gets so slack. I replaced the freewheel but no change, I think Alex nailed the point with the slight offset on the chainring causing a magnified effect on the chain  :(

I just cant seem to align them perfectly for love nor money  :rant:

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