RADBMX.CO.UK
Old School BMX 1980 - 1988 => Old School Race (riders ready, pedals ready... GO!!) => Topic started by: oldschoolace on April 06, 2018, 11:14 AM
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Seemed cheap, threw a cheap bid at it and won to my surprise.
What to do with it is my next question. Doubt i will ever find forks so thinking along the lines of a rolling development build.
Maybe go a lightweight route?
Open to ideas chaps :)
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Vive la France! :daumenhoch:
Got any pics?
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She has a damaged seat tube but they did a model with an intergrated seat clamp so i may have a go at modding the little grub nut underneath the cast section to form a seat clamp of sorts :daumenhoch:
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Thinking of echoing the cast delta shape seatstay section with something along these lines
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That looks cool as fook. Get bodging Clint! :daumenhoch:
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:popcorn: :daumenhoch:
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Anyone got any interesting rims, weinmann, Spencer etc?
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Got a seat clamp / frame stander & some pegs if you need em fistblump
P:S do t like it in ere, it's weird........
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Had a spare few mins in my lunch brake to have a play with a few leverage priciples. Its a very rough mock up but answered a few questions about materials needed and lever travel :daumenhoch:
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She has a damaged seat tube but they did a model with an intergrated seat clamp so i may have a go at modding the little grub nut underneath the cast section to form a seat clamp of sorts :daumenhoch:
I think that's how it actually works as it looks very similar to my old Vitus road bike frame from bitd, that had a flush top tube/seat tube with a grub screw to tighten the seatpost. Used a 25mm seat post with a 6mm allen head grub screw iirc too.
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Vitus finally turned up today. Wow how light!!
Looks in decent nick generally but the seat mast does have its top missing (it isnt the internal clamp model)
Plan is to grind the break square and add a small section of tubing to bring it flush with the casting. The grub screw in the back of the casting is thankfully big enough to use as a seapost clamp :daumenhoch:
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Anyone recognise the Juncker sticker. May be German or Dutch?
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Needs pegs.....
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:LolLolLolLol: sorry bud its crying out to to be a super light speed machine
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LolLolLol: sorry bud its crying out to to be a super light speed machine
No bloody good for any of us then
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That brake looks really cool 8) . I like this thread already :daumenhoch:
What is this frame made of - aluminium? I've never seen one of these before.
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That brake looks really cool 8) . I like this thread already :daumenhoch:
What is this frame made of - aluminium? I've never seen one of these before.
Stidds had one, but sadly the pics have gone
They were made of aluminium, bonded instead of welded together
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Nice, very nice and great to see it is going to get the restoration it needs rather than being scrapped :daumenhoch:
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Looks great Clint! Looking forward to seeing what you do with it! :daumenhoch:
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Awesome
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A frustrating afternoon trying every Alan key I have and splashing 12 notes on a random imperial set saw every one of them useless >:(
Still don't know for sure but it looks like the little grub screw in the top of the seat stay casting is 4.5mm
3 shops later a decent one was finally ordered from some place in Germany....... I knew there was I reason I usually do freestyle builds ;D
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Well the Alan key turned up and was swiftly cobbed down the end of the workshop. Didnt fookin fit!
On closer inspection it looks for all the world like the alan headed grub screw tapers in from 4.5mm at the top to approx 4mm at the bottom
What The Fook!!!!!
Had a go 3 or 4 times to file the retreived alan key to a taper. Deffo helped but the grub screw is fooked so now need drilling out :tickedoff:
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Time to get bodging me thinks! :daumenhoch:
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Getting nowhere fast with this bloody thing :(
Because of the angle of the seatstays its impossible to drill the grub screw out with anything other than an extra long bit. Finally got a hole through but need to gradually inlarge it which has already cost me 2 blunt drill bits. This fooking grub screw is made from unobtainium :(
Anyways, need some thoughts on restoring the top of the seatmast. Given any potential future sale and the new owners unawareness of the broken mast do i:
A. Bond a small section of new tube in to bring the mast flush with the casting, using a new grub screw as a seatclamp
B. Bond a longer section of tube in with a classic keyhole slot to the correct height. It would still use a new grubscrew for seatclamping but allow the mounting of a "show" seatclamp
The fear is that somewhere down the line someone doesnt realise and uses the show clamp as the only clamping for a seatpost, with predictable injury following :-\
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now you've got a hole through the grub screw, would an easyout finish the job ?
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Well that was a ballache! alot more than it should have been to be fair, but i was keen to take my time and get it right.
was aiming to run an M8 grub screw but once i had got the hole wide enough it was clear the remnants of the previous grub screw thread would interfere with the clean cutting of a new thread.
Went up to an M10, and glad i did. Had a lovely clean hole to work with and once tapped i had 5 threads. A little more than you would find an a regular M10 nut, so plenty to get a decent fix on a seatpost.
Time to ge shopping for parts :D
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You're the man! Now get this baby built! :daumenhoch:
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Much swearing, throwing of scraps of metal down the workshop and general annoyance later i finally have this pupper under manners. Squaring off the broken tube inside the casting was a massive headache, as was the temporary seatpost i managed to get stuck while trial sizing the inside of the new section of tube ::)
Not to be bested the second attempt worked a treat and she is more or less ready for a seatpost including the beast of a new grub screw :daumenhoch:
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Another beautiful bodge
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Much swearing, throwing of scraps of metal down the workshop and general annoyance later i finally have this pupper under manners.
Thought you were talking about Dan there for a moment! :daumenhoch:
Top skills Clint! :bow:
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Had a quick go with my revamped hone and the mast looks much smoother now. The faint grey line radiating from the grub screw hole is the joint where i added the small section of tube. Luckily the jb weld sets the same colour as the original joint bonding agent so externally the joint looks authentic :daumenhoch:
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Mk on the horizon and nowt interesting found fork wise, I have, in my wisdom, decided i need some vitus forks.
With the chance of finding some slim to none at best I've bought some road forks with the idea of cutting them down :uglystupid2:
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Need to bin this race shite pal..
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:D last on, I promise :D
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Loving this thread :daumenhoch:
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this could be an interesting day :D
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:LolLolLolLol: :LolLolLolLol: :LolLolLolLol: You need some DC MX4000 .. Job done :D
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well that was easier than expected! A band saw and a blowtorch later....
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Fooked now
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very quick mockup when I got in. well happy! just need to find some sort of reamer now to taper the inside of the legs for the dropouts
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Loving this thread :daumenhoch:
X2 John, this is just awesome bodgery...... :daumenhoch:
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Those forks SOOO suit the frame... staying with the bend ?
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Cheers gents. yeah once cut to the exact length they will have a slight flair a bit like Dyno forks but probably not as prominent
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Look alright them
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going to bond the drop outs in ?
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going to bond the drop outs in ?
yep, jb weld dries exactly the same colour as the existing bonding so that's the way to go :daumenhoch:
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Winning
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Next job is to taper the fork ends internally to accept the drops. Thought this might be a bit of a mare and alot of hand filing but a quick search came up Trump's :daumenhoch:
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You are putting a lot of effort into that build. The results look great so far. :)
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fooking love a spot of serendipity. the reamer I bought has the same angle as the dropout cone :4_17_5:
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Serendipity or the BMX Gods lending you a helping hand!? Either way I love how this is going Clint, and look forward to the next instalment! :bow: