RADBMX.CO.UK
Technical & Reference Section => Tech and Restoration => Topic started by: ED209 on January 22, 2011, 10:46 PM
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Fitting my first 3pc in a US BB... any thing I need to watch out for / remember?
Its a 180mm Profile :)
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Don't forget to put the spacer between the bearings so they don't pinch when you tighten the arms up :daumenhoch:
Can't wait for this.......should be good fun ;)
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Don't forget to put the spacer between the bearings so they don't pinch when you tighten the arms up :daumenhoch:
Can't wait for this.......should be good fun ;)
Rob... you read it wrong... its doesn't say 'Fitting my first 3pc in a US BB...in a Burner' so I doubt you can help :LolLolLolLol:
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make sure tube spacer is the right length,too short it will lock the bearings,too long yer cups will stuck out the frame :daumenhoch:
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why does this remind me of orb's spazzy dog
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why does this remind me of orb's spazzy dog
Try new 'QUADROPHENIA' - 1 out of 3 posts make sense... half of the time.
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make sure tube spacer is the right length,too short it will lock the bearings,too long yer cups will stuck out the frame :daumenhoch:
good science dude - just checked mine and it would have been too long - thanks for that 8)
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have you done it yet? come on lets see the aftermath ;D ;)
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have you done it yet? come on lets see the aftermath ;D ;)
;D love you Rob
yeah I've done it - had to strip and polish the crank arms first so its taken a while.
I got all the spacers right in terms of getting the crank arms to clear the brakes but having followed rootski's advice I trimmed the middle spacer as it looked too long but now if I tighten the bolts on the crank arms 'at all' then it locks the cranks... just like he said... so I need to find the bit I cut off, file it down a bit and put it back :daumenhoch:
any feedback on my use of spacers gratefully accepted :)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/i63/209ed/BMX/P1010135.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/i63/209ed/BMX/P1010134.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/i63/209ed/BMX/P1010133.jpg)
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Ed if you have any of the spacers I gave you left, you can use one of them on the inside to get the bearing spacing spot on.
They've come up well under the White :4_17_5:
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Ed if you have any of the spacers I gave you left, you can use one of them on the inside to get the bearing spacing spot on.
They've come up well under the White :4_17_5:
I don't but thats a good idea Marc - I just need to track down some washers.
They came up ok didn't they 8) it was very thick powder with a black base coat of something that was a bitch to get off... nitromors hardly touched it... wire wool did.
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Nice job ed :daumenhoch:
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Looking good Ed. :daumenhoch:
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cheers lads, and thanks again to Marc for a pukka crank set and BB for a sweet price :)
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So, have a trawl around t'interwebnet and you'll find the specs for the two internal tube spacers. One is to fit in a shell made with a metric dimension, and t'other to fit in an imperial dimension of course. Next time you'll be able to simply measure the width of the shell and bobs yer uncle.
Secondly, the correct tube spacer in the majority of cases will actually prevent both cups from going fully home into the shell. This is deliberate so that when your cranks arms are bolted on tight it guarantees no lateral pressure on the bearings, which is what locks them up. The crack is to have the drive side cup/bearing all the way home, and the non-drive side slightly protruding. You can then tighten everything right up in confidence.
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Ed
What is the spindle diameter?, I have spares of 19,20 & some 22 I think, and a spare spacer tube, 19mm, give me a ring if you need any, You may have my number from when I nearly fixed your computer!!!!
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So, have a trawl around t'interwebnet and you'll find the specs for the two internal tube spacers. One is to fit in a shell made with a metric dimension, and t'other to fit in an imperial dimension of course. Next time you'll be able to simply measure the width of the shell and bobs yer uncle.
Secondly, the correct tube spacer in the majority of cases will actually prevent both cups from going fully home into the shell. This is deliberate so that when your cranks arms are bolted on tight it guarantees no lateral pressure on the bearings, which is what locks them up. The crack is to have the drive side cup/bearing all the way home, and the non-drive side slightly protruding. You can then tighten everything right up in confidence.
Cheers for the info. Rob.
I took the bit I cut off the spacer and popped it back in and exactly what you described happened - I was about to take it all out again and rub it on the flat wheel of the angle grinder until it fitted exactly ... but I will leave it now :daumenhoch:
The bit I had got wrong was to put the big angled spacer on the wrong side - I put that against the chainwheel with the smaller spacers against the BB bearings and it all works irie now.
Thanks to all for the advice.
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Ed
What is the spindle diameter?, I have spares of 19,20 & some 22 I think, and a spare spacer tube, 19mm, give me a ring if you need any, You may have my number from when I nearly fixed your computer!!!!
it was the tube spacer I might have needed cheers Mark... but seems to be ok.
I hsve a virus thought... can you help... with your hammer? :laugh:
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;D
Theres a first time for everything Wiggy
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Right - got it spaced as best as I can to clear the brakes and the chain goes mad lose then crazy tight >:(
Any suggestions... ? will get up some pics later.
That said - rode them down the Boardroom last night... fell off lots but they felt much nicer than the old one piece :D
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sounds like you need top hat washer on the chainring so it sits tight on the cranks axle ?
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Whip the chain off and give the cranks a bloody hard spin then stand back and have a look at your chainring; is it running true, or all over the shop? It should be pretty bang on.
Secondly, give each link on the chain a wobble, see if you have any tight spots. It needs to have a nice consistent feel to it.
That'll do for now, see how you get on :)
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WHS^^^^
Take the chain off spin the cranks and check the sprockets straight or has any up and down movement, that would cause a tight spot
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cheers gents - it was fine when the one piece was in so thats why I asked.
Will go have a look.
( Steve ... I bow to your Photoshop skills :-X ) ;D
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Ed,
Your brake blocks, have they got removeable spacers? if so, make sure they have the small one between the caliper and the block, it will move your brake in a smidge, hence, needing less spacing on the drive side, I have never had the need to have more than 1 thick spacer and the top hat washer that side, usually, 1 mid thickness spacer and the TH.
I'm `out and about' on Friday, not a million miles from Melton, let me know if a cheeky `assist' could be beneficial.
Mark
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Cheers Mark
Just you concentrate on getting that ankle sorted for BRUM :daumenhoch:
I will do what you suggest and see if I can pull it in a bit - there is a little kink in the chainring but I think the fact it is out of line is making it seem worse.
I've been stripping my POS Aero-whatever down tonight so I will play with the Hoffy tomorrow :)