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Technical & Reference Section => Tech and Restoration => Topic started by: DJL on July 16, 2011, 02:08 PM
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As it says above - what's the best way without damaging the hub or the freewheel? Stick it in a vice?
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lace it to a rim and use a removal tool is the only sure way not to damage the hub
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big vice to hold it all helps - gets grips and twist
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Ive got a very blunt chisel that i filed the end to a profile to fit notches and just tap it off
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lace it to a rim and use a removal tool is the only sure way not to damage the hub
Seconded - that's the only way guaranteed not to knacker hub and freewheel :daumenhoch:
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Just get uncle Diggler round to sort it.
He's got a very special tool which males his big fat wrist throb.
But dont leave him alone with your pets, I went to get a beer & when I came back he was setting up a video camera & taping socks to Meatballs' front paws.
Most odd :-\
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ive done this not too long ago
lace the hub the best u can into a rim, it dose'nt have to be fully complete or have lots of tension
now strip the freewheel down so the teeth section is removed and just the basic freewheel body is left on the hub, clamp the body in a vice and twist the rim till the hub starts to unwind from the freewheel body
then once removed u can rebuild the freewheel :daumenhoch: :daumenhoch:
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thanks for the replies everyone :)
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I'd take it to your local bike shop, saves alot of hassle mate.
At mine I get the freewheel , pedals and crank taken off all for £7 :daumenhoch:
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I'd take it to your local bike shop, saves alot of hassle mate.
At mine I get the freewheel , pedals and crank taken off all for £7 :daumenhoch:
i usually do but this is just a hub, its not attached to a wheel......
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The only issue with sticking it in a vice is the fact the tension in the vice is now added tension through the free wheel and onto the hub, but you can get extra leverage by using the wheel to turn it off.
The one on my Tuff was so solid i had to resort to a die grinder to cut though it, maybe i got lucky (i'm used to doing stuff like this) but managed to put a clean slice through the free wheel with out marking the hub, then used a flat blade screw driver to prise the freewheel apart which broke the corrosion (caused by two different metals interacting with one another), was scary business though
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I'd take it to your local bike shop, saves alot of hassle mate.
At mine I get the freewheel , pedals and crank taken off all for £7 :daumenhoch:
i usually do but this is just a hub, its not attached to a wheel......
I'd avoid the LBS route unless you really know and trust them; too many have no idea what they are doing and you could end up with a box of bits and pieces with no hub and no freewheel to speak of!
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Ive got a very blunt chisel that i filed the end to a profile to fit notches and just tap it off
Nice idea. Have to make one.
Love the sig sign Jaymz :daumenhoch:
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I'd take it to your local bike shop, saves alot of hassle mate.
At mine I get the freewheel , pedals and crank taken off all for £7 :daumenhoch:
i usually do but this is just a hub, its not attached to a wheel......
have you got a freewheel tool? can do a lend if needed :daumenhoch:
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I'd take it to your local bike shop, saves alot of hassle mate.
At mine I get the freewheel , pedals and crank taken off all for £7 :daumenhoch:
i usually do but this is just a hub, its not attached to a wheel......
have you got a freewheel tool? can do a lend if needed :daumenhoch:
appreciate the offer, cheers. tool or no tool i think its going to be difficult without lacing it to a wheel which i don't have......
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Get some scrap wood.
Drill a big hole into wood the size of your axle/sticky out piece of hub (but not as large as the spoke holes). If you aint got a big drill then use smaller holes to make a larger one.
Use the hubs 18 holes as a template and mark out 18 holes.
Drill holes out to size of spoke holes on't hub (this depends on how you attach the hub to the wood)
Place hub into large hole on wood so that the spoke holes are flush to the wood and align spoke holes to small holes drilled in't wood. Use cloth, masking tape etc, etc between hub and wood incase of any mishap that might cause damage to hub.
Put nails, screws, lengths of coat hangers wire, wire or old spokes through hub and wood. Make sure its secure as they are likely to pull out under force. Nails would be best and bent over underneath to stop them coming out.
Thats your hub secured.
Stick wood/hub hybrid an a vice!!
Use freewheel removal tool or chiselly/screwdriver jobby to remove wheel. If using a freewheel removal tool then use a big spanner for leverage and whack it with summat and if your axle is long then screw the freewheel removal tool down with an axle nut to stop it pinging off (very loosely because as it is removed it will get tight........so undo freewheel...undo nut......undo freewheel........undo nut etc, etc until you can remove the axle nut and remove freewheel by hand/spanner alone.)
This technique has been used once successfully. I've not used it again due to not having the need.
The important bit is making sure the hub is firmly attached to the wood!! :daumenhoch:
Job done.
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Bring it to the fixit gazeebo on the helipad and I'll lace it to a knackered rim and get it in my vice to see if it will come off. If not, we'll set Hootski and Animal on it and they'll sort it out ;-)
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i just removed a shimmano freewheel what i used was a tap spanner the ones with forks at both ends the main shaft fitted in the shimmano slots a treat put the spanner in a vice lay the wheel on top and it should twist of a treat
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i just removed a shimmano freewheel what i used was a tap spanner the ones with forks at both ends the main shaft fitted in the shimmano slots a treat put the spanner in a vice lay the wheel on top and it should twist of a treat
its not attached to a wheel, just the hub.....
its for sale now anyway ;D blue annodised flip flop 36h sunshine hub with 16t suntour freewheel attached if anyones interested :)