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New School BMX 2004 - Now => New School Park, Street & Dirt => Topic started by: BENDYCAT ELEVENTEEN on March 09, 2012, 08:13 PM
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Right got a fly brake second hand from ebay - now it's quite as described and the is a bit of wear on one arm, it makes no difference as they will /would work - but seeing a prob
the brake mounts are removerble - small barrel on tab
now on the dia comp that were on it, it has a long bolt and all locks on
on the fly brake it has a short bolt and will never fit on the tab with the barrel - even to use the the long bolts there is a 1mm gap and it is too tall and moves
so what can be done
sell fly brakes
use a barrel that is correct / if they do one
get different bolts / if the do them
bugger - just wonna ride it :2gunsfiring_v1:
cheers B :-[
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A pic would help B?
I've got a fly brake/removable mounts on my bike with no issues
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will get pic's up in a bit for all to see and tell me what the f* is wrong :-[
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I had problems going from an Oddy to a Proper caliper setup - just dremelled the last couple of mm's off the threads of the long bolts and jobs a good'n - the holding caps for the springs on the Propers were bevelled but my bolts aren't - makes no difference as well so long as they're nice and tight :)
Fook me though the Propers are an on/off calliper........had to slap V-brake pads on to give em a bit of dabbing power.
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Right i do have an idea for it to work
1, the fly screw is too short - so find a screw/bolt as long as the other tektro bolt
2, use the tektro bolt
3, take down the barrel tab about 2-3mm so there is no movement
(i know i have put dc instead of tektro in pic's ;D)
right pic's here
brakeless
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/stereo%20bmx/SNV11374.jpg)
brake tab /barrel - just pushes on
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/stereo%20bmx/SNV11375.jpg)
tektro caliper
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/stereo%20bmx/SNV11376.jpg)
tektro / fly - see gap as barrel needs to be filed down a bit so no movement
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/stereo%20bmx/SNV11378.jpg)
so how do the fly screws go on ? is it that a fly barrel has a thread in it ?
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/stereo%20bmx/SNV11380.jpg)
tektro bolt in fly caliper
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/stereo%20bmx/SNV11381.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/stereo%20bmx/SNV11382.jpg)
so what do you lot think and what is the easy or best answer to this ?
cheers B ;)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/stereo%20bmx/SNV11390.jpg)
just wanted to say a BIG THANKS to Mark/OBB who re-painted my lever - got it cheap but new stock - it was a light blue at the end, but felt it needed to be black - he did a top job and i think it looks so sweet >:D and he did it for free :daumenhoch:
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Just use it with the DC bolt , but make sure its not too long and goes through thr frame into the seat stay
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with removeable mounts, the bolt is part of the mounting kit and must stay with the mount when you change brake so as bof say's use the long bolt, it shouldn't be too long as it wont sit flush cos its not countersunk, if you want a clean look like the small bolt, go to a hardware store and get a longer countersunk bolt.
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and it's ok to take the barrel down 2-3 mm as it seems like it will rattle up and down ?
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Use the dc bolt assuming it's long enough, the mounting bolts that come with the fly brake sit flush, you'll need to use a washer with the dc bolts otherwise the brakes springs slacken off real quick....
The dc bolts won't sit flush and will allow movement without washers
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/m48/markw33/5-3-12.jpg)
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so looking at yours you don't have to cut any thing down as the washer bring it up to take off the movement ? ??? or cut the barrel a bit and still fit the washer / also so it tightens prop !
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Nothings cut down B just use some washers like i have and jobs a good un... :daumenhoch:
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isn't the bolt meant to be a countersunk type? if so then that washer could stop it from tightening up properly :-\
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isn't the bolt meant to be a countersunk type? if so then that washer could stop it from tightening up properly :-\
You can get away with washer/no washer on the buggers - so long as they're nice and tight on the spring caps :)
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isn't the bolt meant to be a countersunk type? if so then that washer could stop it from tightening up properly :-\
Yes but mine and B's frames have these type of removable mounts...
http://www.sandmbikes.com/_product_67780/Thread-On_990_Mount_Kit
The long threaded bolt (B's called it a dc bolt) replaces the bolt you'd normally use on standard welded 990 mounts, if a fly brake is fitted without the washers shown above no matter how much it's tightened down it'll move slightly because the bolt isn't countersunk, the washer keeps it tightened down proper... :daumenhoch:
Looks a bit of a bodge up but you only see it when the bikes upside down
I'm not arsed what it looks like as long as it works... :daumenhoch:
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still the trouble will be where the removable tab goes up inside the brake caliper hole and then the piece of metal that the spring goes into and the counter sunk bolt - that needs to sit on the caliper - with the tab inside it pokes through and it all doesn't sit flush and tight
so the tab needs the top taking off
it doesn't matter if i stick a washer under the new bolt (although the washer will stop it coming loose) that part is no the prob
see the picture with the two calipers side by side with writing as to what i mean
cheers B ;)
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bang it back on ebay and buy an evo2 :daumenhoch:
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If You stick with the Fly brake I've got some long countersunk brake bolts that should do the job, PM Me Your address if You want them & I'll send them out to You :daumenhoch:
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just got some of them - cheers for the offer ;) - think i might put this one back on ebay and get a complete set up and less headache ;D
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No problem, just be aware if You get an Ody Evo 2 You'll still need those longer countersunk bolts, the brake spring set up is the same type as the Fly :daumenhoch:
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I'd say save yourself some cash and pick up a set of TRP's, but then i'm used to dragging my feet along the floor or jamming my foot between the frame and tyre to stop (hate using brake on annodised rims, specially when they cost 80 quid a pop)
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Trainers aint cheap either :LolLolLolLol:
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Trainers aint cheap either :LolLolLolLol:
Haha, true.
Still recommending the TRP's though!
http://www.trpbrakes.com/category.php?productid=1024&catid=186&subcat=0
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Right the fly brake was a pain in the butt - just wouldn't lock on and spring back
so plan B.E. have to be put in effect
a new set up of Proper calipers set - hooked up to a united cable and then on to a Colony lever
stops like porsche brakes now - sweet >:D
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/SNV10414.jpg)
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Sweet - like I mentioned beore - the Propers are on/off :daumenhoch:
If you don't get on with that, a couple of v-brake pads sort it out for a little more feathering power :)
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I think they will be like my driving - power on - brake only when needed ;D
first time of having some stopper that work and don't just kiss the wheel gently like on most my OS bikes
i do see it having one problem and that it like when the Audi TT came out - it had such good brakes, but kept getting people hitting it from behind and smashing it up - i see the London run could be the same - all those old school bmxs in a heap behind ;D
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Glad you got it sorted and love that blue!
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it just a sexy blue :smitten:
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coca cola on the rims and blocks help!