RADBMX.CO.UK
New School BMX 2004 - Now => New School Park, Street & Dirt => Topic started by: motomagII on April 11, 2012, 09:25 PM
-
so just built me federal up and few problems as always
1st isa brake caliper is catching the chain with small gearing as expected but i reckon the caliper im using is quite high stack dia compe 990.
what does a low profile one stack at dia compe is about 28mm .i dont need much as it only just catches/rubs it . it also needs to be purple if possible (blank are purple and cheap but are they any good )
2nd whats the deal with giros nowadays on internal headset frames no tads fitted and to tabs on stem either .?i know nothing about these really?ive run straight cable at mo to the rear lower stays using the guides and adjuster on the downtube and it looks messy near the headset where cable comes up to lever
3rd put half link chain on and it slips under pressure,is this the chain or driver usually (wheel and hub are proper and brand new ).i havent got summat to swap at moment to try different things out
4. what levers are good again blank do one right colour purple but can u get tech 77 in purple ?not the bent ones as i have massive bars it would be straight lever left hand and prefer hinged too really
lastly how the fook do you ride a bike !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :LolLolLolLol:
-
1. Any more modern brake should be ok, they all got lower as they got newer. all U brakes are basically ok, it's all about the setup...
2. Drill and tap your headtube to accept tabs, buy a plate to go under your stem for t'other end. (Vocal do a decent one).
3. Make sure the 1/2 link chain is the right way round and the right way up first of all. Assuming that's all ok, chances are the cassette is over greased. Take the driver out and clean everything thoroughly, then just a couple of drops of 3in1 oil to each pawl - no more. They have to be noisy to work properly sadly.
4. Levers are a personal choice really. Can't say I've seen a purple 77, only Dirty Harrys. I'd bet Colony do a purple lever and they're nice things actually.
Lastly, go fast and hold on!!
-
What gearing you running Greg?
You'll probably struggle for clearance below 33/12 on that frame with a brake
Fly and odyssey evo 2 brakes have a low stack height
You'll need the frame drilled/tapped for gyro tabs and a gyro plate to go below the stem, just run a straight cable and save the hassle :daumenhoch:
The driver slipping could be because it's new, my proper hub did it first time out :-\
Odyssey lever :daumenhoch:
Spent ages typing that then got the warning someone else had replied ;D
Rob, Greg's got a circa 04 ish Federal frame, i reckon the chainstays/lugs will be too high for low gearing :-\
-
Ah yeah, you could be right there.
Old school then, take a grinder to the brake ;)
-
m running 28_10 and chain is just bouncing onto brake a tad its the noise that bugs me
-
How do u remove a driver its a proper v3 hub
-
i ran 30/10 i think Greg on my 05 Fly Diablo and the chain did exactly the same on a new AD999. what i did was to run a bit of velcro around the chainstay and over the top of the brake bolt.......stopped the noise of the chain :daumenhoch:
You can see from this picture Greg that it's really close to the chain even with a new school low brake......just bang on the velcro and wrap it around the chainstay :daumenhoch:
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/b339/robertbransby/flyfinished2.jpg)
-
Greg, I'm running 30/10 and a dia comp hombre brake, and it just clears with a z510 chain, my half link caught the bolt hence the z chain change, you could try filing the bolt head a bit it it's only just catching.
Mark
-
If it's only just hitting with a 990 which has a high stack height You'd have loads of clearance with an Odyssey Evo 2, 21mm high :daumenhoch:
-
i ran 30/10 i think Greg on my 05 Fly Diablo and the chain did exactly the same on a new AD999. what i did was to run a bit of velcro around the chainstay and over the top of the brake bolt.......stopped the noise of the chain :daumenhoch:
You can see from this picture Greg that it's really close to the chain even with a new school low brake......just bang on the velcro and wrap it around the chainstay :daumenhoch:
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/b339/robertbransby/flyfinished2.jpg)
that looks exatly like mine just kind of clopse and taps on it
-
Try the velcro Greg.......stopped the noise on mine :daumenhoch:
or look for a rubber bung to fit into the Allen key head.......like the plastic things you get for screws in flat pack stuff.
-
just rung winstanleys about the driver slipping gotta send the wheel back now doh
-
Good luck with that.... fcuking Winstanleys. Are you taking bets on ever getting it back?
The drivers are a simple dismantle, release any and all cone nuts, driver pulls out of the hub. Clean every last bit of grease, oil whatever out of hub & driver, make sure it's spotless. Add a couple of drops of light oil and reassemble.
Driver should be loud.
-
Mine slipped a few weeks back, might have to do what you've just said Bob :daumenhoch:
-
You'll understand if you have a look - the components are quite small and fussy looking. A blob of grease will easily hold the pawls in and that's your slip. Assuming there are no broken springs in there. Again, easy to spot.
I'd love a quiet bike, I hate the clicking but cassette hubs don't allow it.
-
may have another ride tonite gentle like see if its just bedding in slip .if not i may dismantle myself and have look before sending back .winstanleys guy christian said hed ring me back to sort it about 5 hours ago and nothing as of yet no suprise there then!!
-
I'll save you the bruised knees mate - it won't be bedding in slip. Chances are it'll get worse, they usually do.
-
okay i will give that miss .i may strip it tomorrow have look see if its that easy if not back to winstanleys it goes leaving me with no wheel again .
-
Knowing W@nkstanleys they've probably put a LHD driver in a RHD hub...... ;D
As 2BR said - it'll only get worse. Could be it's greased and the pawls aren't engaging, or it's proper fooked. You'll see straight off though when you pull out the driver.
Here's a link to the GSport Ratchet hub dissasembly pdf (it's not the same hub as yours, but it will give you an idea of what's inside a new school rear hub):
http://www.gsportbmx.com/v2/wp-content/uploads/2010/06/ratchet-hub-instruction-manual.pdf
-
(http://)(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7191/7071356261_9051696f1f_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70756164@N04/7071356261/)
DSCF6701 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70756164@N04/7071356261/) by motomag11 (http://www.flickr.com/people/70756164@N04/), on Flickr
(http://)(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7094/6925281148_e40e5ecc22_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70756164@N04/6925281148/)
DSCF6702 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70756164@N04/6925281148/) by motomag11 (http://www.flickr.com/people/70756164@N04/), on Flickr
right this is how far i have got .
as you see the brake cable looks shite where it passes the headtube ?
got some chain tensioners coming so i can maybe get chain right and clear brake a tad
also got black seat coming but not sure if blue or black to be honest
i need to get another rear claiper and lever cant decide what and the colour either
-
Billy's bmx in cambridge used to do a kit for u brakes that had lower bolts, springs, & tensioners so your chain would clear. I would give them a ring. :daumenhoch:
-
Run the cable on the other side Greg, lever on the left cable on the right :daumenhoch:
You're deffo colour blind :LolLolLolLol:
-
yeah i never thought of cable that way .my old bikes have it like that on caliper brakes
i love the colours spent week trying to find the paint for this then blue back end red font its mint
in kinda thinking of painting some forks red as well to be honest
-
in kinda thinking of painting some forks red as well to be honest
:daumenhoch: You've gotta have matching collars and cuffs - bars gotta match the forks I reckon :)
-
Just make something match FFS ;D ;)
-
just spent last hour looking at brake levers cant decide what do peeps use needs to be left hand
-
I run an Eclat Sniper lever on my Failure, I have been very impressed by the quality of it, hinged clamp, brass bushes and spare screws and bushes included.
-
Great is that cromo front steel rear frame ?
-
Top Tube Length： 20.85 inch
Chainstays length:14.0" to 13.5" slammed
Headtube Angle：74.5"
Seat angle:71Z
euro BB & Internal Headset
Weight: 2.615g/20.85"
full chromo frame
around 2005 ish i believe
tad haevy but feels nice was the best i could afford as getting a new school goes
-
Just make something match FFS ;D ;)
it does match,
everything on his washing line :D
-
Just make something match FFS ;D ;)
it does match,
everything on his washing line :D
i hung uit on the washing line to paint it lol
-
i think its the chainline thats causing problems now but can u remove the cog off the driver'to turn it round and or put a washer on to bring it outwards somewhat .
-
Take the cranks out and add or remove spacers behind the sprocket :daumenhoch:
-
i have done that but dont like it .theres barely any thread left on the chainring bolt into the crank arm.
im sure the cog can be removed but i need to know for sure and how /who has the tools looks like a really narow swpanner and chain tool needed .about 28mm or so /
-
the cog does screw off the driver for sure neew a cone spanner and chain whip tool.INT GOT NEITHER MESSAGE TO DIGGLER ON TIS WAY LOL
-
Something's fundamentally wrong there, at worse you should be adding one washer between crank arm and sprocket, and that should only be to space the arm away from the frame if you feel the need.
Take a close up photo of the rear wheel/hub/dropout type deal, let's have a look.
-
(http://)(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5151/6934657094_65692715b0_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70756164@N04/6934657094/)
DSCF6729 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70756164@N04/6934657094/) by motomag11 (http://www.flickr.com/people/70756164@N04/), on Flickr
this is the hub i reckon the cog is the wrong way round
if i put the arms on with top hat and 1 small spacer the arms miss the frame by 2mm but the chain line is out by quite bit hence me thinking the cog is the wrong way round
-
Greg, i've got one of those hubs in a drawer somewhere i'll go find it and have a butchers before you start taking it to bits :LolLolLolLol:
I think Rob was asking for a pic of the bike upside down then we can see the alignment issue?
-
i know mate but i have brought the wheel in off the bike to send si diggler a pic to see if its right and if he has the correct proprtioned tool lol
-
Greg, i've got one of those hubs in a drawer somewhere i'll go find it and have a butchers before you start taking it to bits :LolLolLolLol:
I think Rob was asking for a pic of the bike upside down then we can see the alignment issue?
ive already had the axle and cassette out idiots at winstanleys had filled the cassette with that white grease stuff ?arent the supposed to run dry ?
-
No grease, couple of drops of Sewing Machine or 3 in 1 oil on each pawl mech.
-
(http://)(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5446/6934825142_a79e0495fa_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70756164@N04/6934825142/)
DSCF6731 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70756164@N04/6934825142/) by motomag11 (http://www.flickr.com/people/70756164@N04/), on Flickr
drive side crank arm position cant move it in no more
(http://)(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7109/6934837896_c8ca8d5139_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70756164@N04/6934837896/)
DSCF6730 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70756164@N04/6934837896/) by motomag11 (http://www.flickr.com/people/70756164@N04/), on Flickr
chainring for the above 2 spacers on inside 2 on outside of chainring to pack out bit
(http://)(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7201/6934834940_33725532fd_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70756164@N04/6934834940/)
DSCF6733 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70756164@N04/6934834940/) by motomag11 (http://www.flickr.com/people/70756164@N04/), on Flickr
(http://)(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7201/6934834940_33725532fd_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70756164@N04/6934834940/)
DSCF6733 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/70756164@N04/6934834940/) by motomag11 (http://www.flickr.com/people/70756164@N04/), on Flickr
-
Don't look a great deal wrong with the chain line ??? Just need a spacer or two on the outside of the sprocket to put the crank are out a little
-
Nowt wrong with the hub Greg...
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/m48/markw33/5-3-12043.jpg)
Profile crank arms don't angle outwards very far compared to some others it's the only thing i don't like about them, had to get my son some new cranks for this reason, ungrateful little git doesn't ride anymore so i've never got round to fitting em
-
Are there washers on both sides of that hub on the inside? Do you have to pull the dropouts apart to get the wheel in? Is the wheel easily centred when it is in?
So many questions...... :LolLolLolLol:
-
yes 1 wsher both sides on hub axle
1 washer either side of hub to get it onto frame withough movement and centred
it def running noisy and not right and click occasionally under hard pressure
chain line does look to be out in real life looking at it .
-
I'm tempted to say move the whole wheel over by removing one washer and sticking it on t'other side, then dish the rim so it sits centred in the frame.
It's a bit of a bollockache but may solve your problem.
-
Is your splined crank spindle an original profile one? Or another manafacturer? As some of the other makes are not as long as others. Especially the titanium ones. The trouble is some riders are obsessed with saving weight on their bikes. So they will buy a spindle that is a few grams lighter. Not realising that the reason it is lighter is coz its shorter! :daumenhoch:
-
was going to suggest a short spindle, can get roughly 10mm space between crank and frame on all my bikes NS and OS with my set of profiles , with the frame /chain line was this frame designed to take micro gearing? i ask as i dont know , are rear ends designed differently to take freewheel gearing or cassette gearing? still anew to NS myself :LolLolLolLol:
-
it was designed ofr 36 or 39 x 13/14 .ill get the fooker to work one way or another if not i may have to swap and use my profile wheel on this frame and this wheel on another but i aint beaten yet
-
just got emqail back from proper and they are realy good .explained everything sent diagrams of hub parts etc .then said they are great unless you are using a federal frame then you are struggling .?
guess what i am on a federal frame .
i didnt tell them this they just said it .chain line on federal frame and proper hubs wont work aparently im amazed but know it must be true as i didnt tell em it was a federal i was having problems with .
-
Nice to hear that you got good support from Proper, at least you know what's what now.
-
You're not having much luck Greg :(
-
going in garage again not try it on my other frame see how it sits on there .proper have been sent pic so they can date the hub (if its 20010 or older even though ive just bought it the cog will screw off the driver and spin round if not it is no good as is according to them
see ya in hour or two see how i get on lol
-
The hub is from 2007 or thereabouts, i bought the one i've put a pic of in 07
They changed the font in 2008
-
well i think it is sorted took all the washers off the axle which left gap between the frame and the axle nuts of about 5mm either side and just tightened the wheel nuts up and it pulled the frame inwards as i did so and guess what perfect alignment .not been far just down drive and feels okay .gonna give it run tomorrow properly and see if we are cookign on gas i fooking hope so lol#
if so we can move onto the next bug bear tight spots on chain .my top hat washer has tiny tiny bit movement on axle but tight on prifile ring is thisw normal as i have tight spot on chain or should i get meself new top hat washer
-
nice result on the frame/hub info Greg :daumenhoch:
top hat washer should be a snug fit on the spindle, if not get a new one or shim it with a bit of coke can .
Tight Spot i use this method if you can follow it? , can usually get rid of the tight spot altogether
tighten up the wheel, slacken off the crank arm bolt holding the chain ring on just enough to allow it to move with a bit of force then spin the cranks until the chain goes tight then press the chain inwards towards the chain stay with your hand this will move the chain ring a bit and should even out the tight spot, might kneed to do it in a few places, tighten up the bolt, will only work if the top hat is a snug fit to begin with , you may also have slip of the chain and move the cranks round a bit then try it again, its because the hubs and the cranks/chain ring are machined on different machines so the centers are slightly different , usually with a sealed hub and sealed BB the tight spot will only be small/short so its usually the chain ring thats out a bit
-
its quite a big tight spot too .gonna have to change the top hat before i do any thing else though