RADBMX.CO.UK
Technical & Reference Section => Tech and Restoration => Topic started by: jimwise68 on July 06, 2006, 11:48 AM
-
Anyone know where I can buy one in Central London?
-
Maybe Edwardes in Camberwell ?
-
Can the cranks be fitted without one?
-
Potentially yes. Just make sure the arms are lined up correctly, it's easy to get them a spline out so theay are not at 180degrees. You need to make sure you have approximated the spacing right so you don't need to take and arm off. If the arms are really snug you may need to tap them on with a rubber mallet or hammer/block of wood, until you can get the crank arm bolts engaged. You can then tighten the arms on with the bolts. If you are using the "Bitchin Bolts" (flush with hex hole) you need to be careful cos it's difficult to generate enough pressure with an alan key. The Prfile crank tool doesn't push the arms fully on, so you need to resort to the bolt method even with one.
-
the bolts that I have are normal bolts for the crank arms and not allen bolts, will that mean I wont need an tool?
Will I just be able to do them with a normal socket set?
Hope so, cos I want to fit them tonight.
-
should be okay jim, they'll be snug to get on, but i don't reckon too many sets out there are fitted using the profile tool.
as sanmarcopizza says, make sure the cranks are lined up correctly so ur not a spline out, but this is fairly easy to spot b4 u've the arm on fully anyway.
block of wood and a hammer's a good method of persuasion, then run them up snug using the actual spindle bolts.
good luck, and keep the swear box handy...
bp.
-
Just got to get the bearings out of the US BB now. To convert them to mid size.
That is gonna be the b'stard. :-[
-
I'm sure that shouldn't be too hard, just watch you don't damage the seals. You need to find a hard surface with a gap in it. Wide enough so that the outer face of the cups sits on it, but with a gap so that the bearing can drop through when you tap it. Some gentle heat on the cup may help. As the cups are allumium, but the bearings are steel they should heat up quicker and expand faster than the bearings.
-
San is the man! :4_17_5:
-
check out the length of the bearing spacer tubes with the us bb too jim.
u may need to shorten the (aluminium) tube, unless they've started supplying one suitable for mid bb's now?
and watch out for the bearing seals (only plastic) if ur doing any heating of the cups...
bp.
-
Brian
'tis okay, the local friendly Condor bike shop has just removed the bearings for me! :4_17_5: :4_17_5:
Just gotta do rest tonight.
Can't wait cos it means my newey will be rideable. :smitten:
-
:daumenhoch:
post a pic or three, yeah?
bp.
-
Gonna build it all up tonight.
May take step by step pix of the crank build. :daumenhoch:
-
Hi all
While we are talking Profile Cranks, I need to remove the arms and spindle etc from the Profile Champ Pro that I recently got.
What's the best way to get them off from a bike that has been left out side for 20 years? :-[
The bolts and pedals have come undone very easily, but I now need to strip the rest and need help or a picture of what they are like, and the procedure for this. (They are in very good condition overall and may be okay with just a polish, so I really don't want to damage anything)
Any Help?
Cheers
J.
-
Hi all
While we are talking Profile Cranks, I need to remove the arms and spindle etc from the Profile Champ Pro that I recently got.
What's the best way to get them off from a bike that has been left out side for 20 years? :-[
The bolts and pedals have come undone very easily, but I now need to strip the rest and need help or a picture of what they are like, and the procedure for this. (They are in very good condition overall and may be okay with just a polish, so I really don't want to damage anything)
Any Help?
Cheers
J.
by using the removal/fitting tool that jim is asking about....
Dave
-
Dave
what about if you don't have one?
I was thinking the same thing last night, getting the crank arms on is a b'stard, god knows how I am gonna get the mo'fos off! :LolLolLolLol:
-
Getting profiles off is brutal, unless they are worn a bit and slide off easy. I would recommend the use of the correct tool. Basically all it is a big nut with a shoulder that sits against the end of the spindle. You then make at it like a madman with a hammer and bash it until you have knocked the spindle through the arm. You could use an appropriate sized drift, byt there is a chance you will flatten the end of the spindle and not be able to get a bolt in again. I think there are some PDF manuals on the profile racing web site.
-
if you don't have the profile tool and are having diffs beating the spindle through to get the arms off, if you use a washer small enough to drop through the crank arm splined hole but big enough to cover as much of the end of the spindle as possible (to protect it and spread the loads) and set this onto the spindle, then tighten down an allen head bolt of the same thread as the regular hex head spindle bolts, this gives a good solid base to put a bit of solid bar against to drive the spindle thro.
(use an allen head bolt / machine screw cos it's smaller than a hex head and will definitely clear the crank arm splined hole on the way through)
BUT
u gotta make sure that the allen head bolt is proper tight (and stays tight!), so u don't feck the threads in the spindle.
one other thing, spread some grease on the spindle splines b4 assembly. really helps next time u dismantle....
:daumenhoch:
bp.
-
Right,
gonna buy me'sen a profile tool then.
I put loads of grease on the splines of the crank arm I have fitted. So hopefully, fingers crossed...
-
they are like 7 quid or sommat so just go buy one you tight minge
Dave
-
:LolLolLolLol:
I did, but it was more like £14 from Alans.
-
really...you was had
lol
Dave
-
yeah i have one you could borrow if needed lol
mine was free
-
http://www.customriders.co.uk/prodshow.asp?id=2175&pg=2&site=3
there you go 5 quid plus post.....good old custom riders
Dave
-
Feckin northerners! :LolLolLolLol:
Mind you at least a will get a free Alan's sticker! :D
-
result then
lol
Dave