RADBMX.CO.UK
Technical & Reference Section => Tech and Restoration => Topic started by: fischflo on December 11, 2013, 01:14 AM
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Plan: ... wanna make these shiny ......strip strip, polish shiny --- girly route with the thinner strip
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/shimanodx.jpg)
Problem nr 1: the fookin end caps.
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/DSC00248.jpg)
Got new one, so could smash em in, but i got them out ....using a small flat screw driver à la Bigplinky or Minihaha. - The screwdriver is not ideal, cause it will pop through the plastic and leave a little hole - but that'll be in one of the 2 indentations, so no big deal i find. Better tool could be used, but i'm hectic
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/DSC00249.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/DSC00250.jpg)
Trick is to rather turn the cap around rather than try to pop it out. After a few (...) turns one side of the cap will stick out a bit, and then you lever the thing up.
Worked fine with the 1st pedal. The second cap was stuck however --- so i searched and found this trick -forgot who said it :-X-, but you just pop the pedal in the oven for 10 minutes and then you can probably get the turns done.
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Step2: ...get the axles/spindles out.
This is what you see
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/DSC00251.jpg)
There are two nuts to be removed. For the first you need two wrenches ... one 11 and one 15 mm wide i think it was.
You tighten the 11 to the table, place the pedal over it, and then you twist the spindle off. Easy ::)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/DSC00252.jpg)
The "probem" is the second nut. It's to far down for a wrench, so you probably need a special tool. I however just used a blade sort of thing, with the right size to fit between the larger nut and the inside of the pedal. basically used in the same manner i used the 11 mm wrench - it holds the nut in place while i screw off the spindle.
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/DSC00254.jpg)
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...hello bearings :teef:
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/DSC00257.jpg)
...and hello you bearings, too
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/DSC00258.jpg)
i beg you: ... someone said it: place the pedals over something tray-like before you pull the spindles out.
I didn't, heard a thump; and spent 20 minutes looking for the missing bearing ball
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/DSC00263.jpg)
Step 3: .... after removing the balls and the gunk, place em in a small container and spilll thinner all over em and leave em in there for caouple of days .... like i read here ->http://www.radbmx.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,166319.msg1664256/topicseen.html#msg1664256. Cheers meticulous
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/DSC00264.jpg)
...lets see if it wörks :D
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I used a socket spanner on the nut inside the pedal Fishy :daumenhoch:
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I used a socket spanner on the nut inside the pedal Fishy :daumenhoch:
Going to say never had an issue with socket.
:daumenhoch:
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got any hints for pin resto ... got some GT DXs that need missing pins replacing :daumenhoch:
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got any hints for pin resto ... got some GT DXs that need missing pins replacing :daumenhoch:
Get down the iron mongers Ed and get a steel rod the same size. Cut to length and tap in...voila!
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lots of info in here
http://www.vintagebmx.com/community/index.php'showtopic=4005471&st=95
dowel pins!
or I've read on here people have used welding rod or cut down rivets..
If anyone gets some dowel pins in I could do with 3 of them, can't be arsed to order hundreds :teef:
"Machinists know them as "Dowel Pins". That is your Internet buzz word.
MSC (and many others) has any size you want. In this case they are 1/8 inch and .375" long. The smaller ones are 3/32" by .375"long. You can do as I did and use black oxided pins for the main pins, and shiny for the cast pins, or whatever you like. These pins are usually grade 8 or better, and hardened. They will last through many pairs of shoes."
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Couple of days !!!!!!!!
Oven pride 5 mins job done & some nice red marks on your hands to show the mrs how clever you are :LolLolLolLol:
Don't use it on that ppp disc though :2gunsfiring_v1: :LolLolLolLol:
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Couple of days !!!!!!!!
Oven pride 5 mins job done & some nice red marks on your hands to show the mrs how clever you are :LolLolLolLol:
Don't use it on that ppp disc though :2gunsfiring_v1: :LolLolLolLol:
Oven pride doesn't work on paint ::)
Just anodise
DX were never anodised :)
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Couple of days !!!!!!!!
Oven pride 5 mins job done & some nice red marks on your hands to show the mrs how clever you are :LolLolLolLol:
Don't use it on that ppp disc though :2gunsfiring_v1: :LolLolLolLol:
Oven pride doesn't work on paint ::)
Just anodise
DX were never anodised :)
DOH !!!!!!!!!!!!
forgot about that mr yerbouti :-[
Stripped my gold ones a treat though.....
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Here you can get a hundred delivered for about £20
http://www.boneham.co.uk/shop/product/imperial_stainless_steel_dowel_pins
Maybe there's a radster somewhere lives close enough to pick up a few...
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.......... so some colours are painted and some are anno'ed i take :D ???
A) for anno'ed ones (gold, ...?): Oven pride
B) for the painted (black, ...?): nitromors, thinner, or .... synstrip Yep, anything like that. It comes off really easy :daumenhoch:
I think I used Rustins Strypit.
-> http://www.radbmx.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,131361.msg1359639.html#msg1359639
i guess that Synstrip is bit stronger - i'll try that once i failed with the thinner :slayer:... cheers Sheikh
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I put my sons dmr v12s in caustic soda didnt seem to be working, left them all day as I forgot and turned them into volcanic rock oops. Turned out to be paint. :10_2_12:
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If original finish they r all defo painted :daumenhoch:
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You hear it, boys ....they're all painted :yahoo_silent:
...just splodged them in 1l turpentine replacement ......lol lets see if that'll doo ...let me see you stripped :2gunsfiring_v1:
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Did the thinners not work Flo :-\
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Thinners/turps is great for shifting the oil/gunk/shit but stripping the paint ? I'm not so sure. ???
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I'm interested in seeing how these come out as I've got some to do myself :daumenhoch:
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well the smell was like thinner's ...and it's all i found in the basement in sufficient amount to cover the pedals with :teef: ...lazyness breeds invention, like my first dealer used to say .... :laugh:
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well the smell was like thinner's ...and it's all i found in the basement in sufficient amount to cover the pedals with :teef: ...lazyness breeds invention, like my first dealer used to say .... :laugh:
next time try tomato ketchup
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well the smell was like thinner's ...and it's all i found in the basement in sufficient amount to cover the pedals with :teef: ...lazyness breeds invention, like my first dealer used to say .... :laugh:
No invention needed fischy. Just buy some fookin paint stripper. :idiot2: :LolLolLolLol:
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These threads are the best :daumenhoch: :daumenhoch: :daumenhoch:
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I used a socket spanner on the nut inside the pedal Fishy :daumenhoch:
Socket spanner ..of course! :daumenhoch:
DOH !!!!!!!!!!!!
Stripped my gold ones a treat though.....
...might have been spraypainted? Just read the Ovenpride does work on that. (->http://www.vitalbmx.com/forums/General-BMX-Talk,2/paint-stripping-pedals-help,1229508)
..... :( ....after 1 day in the bath, nothing. Maybe it's too cold outside or maybe thinner's different? Whatever, next stop Nitromors/paint stripper
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(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/bth_DSC01373.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/chanel.jpg)
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Chapter4: ...stripping with Paint Stripper
ok, so first of all you splodge it all over the pedals (mine contained Ester, Methylsilfoxyd, Ketone)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/DSC00327.jpg)
... i did it outside, and put a plastik bag over the trays afterwards and let it soak for about an hour
It then looked like this
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/DSC00363.jpg)
for scraping the gunk off i used these
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/DSC00403.jpg)
..however the one hour soak wasn't enough!
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/DSC00366.jpg)
...so i repeated the procedure and let it soak overnight outside.
Next day, after scraping
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/DSC00372.jpg)
....now it dawned on me. The paint stripper clearly had worked better on one pedal than on the other.
My guess was - it was rather chilly outside - after a short while the stripper gets into this gel-like, if not even mucus-like state, and the stripper apllied after it once gets into this condition does not properly apply -- hinting towards the main problem: the chilliness (was around 8°C) is detrimental to the stripping process altogether.
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Don't know about cold having an effect on the stripper, but I've had pairs of things where ones taken longer than the other to react :chin:
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No - it was the cold; that's why one pedal was ok, while the other one much worse.
So i moved the next stripping session to the shower. ...And let it soak another night.
Left the ventilation on all night
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/DSC00400.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/DSC00405.jpg)
...i'm well pleased. THe finish aint perfect - one mistake was to use a toothbrush. That works fine, but the bristles dissolve after a while and leave a problematic coating :10_2_12:.
Even after one or two more soaking and scraping sessions there are spots with paint. ALSO there are like spotted parts. Weird thing is they seemed to have appeared (every time) right after i wiped off the last bits of the stripper/ dissolvent off. -... i suppose, again guessing, that the remaining particles harden quickly once the dissolving wet coating is gone. ------> THERE must be a trick to avoid this.
But i'mm well happy anyway with the general appearance of the pedals. So much that i think i will drop the polishing. I heard a dremel is the way to go - i however bought a polishing top for a power drill. I don't care about a few scatches, and i don't want to loose the orangey apearance of the surface the ped still has on many spots.
Phase5: .....polish
..
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/rinkPose.jpg)
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There you go. :daumenhoch:
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Looking good :)
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God job there, I can't wait to see the finished items - Ive just done a pair of DX and ran into the same problems as you, with the main problem being the stripper sort of drying out and turning into a mucusy mess because it was too cold. I put the pedals inside over night and cleaned them off in the kitchen sink which did the trick, but the paint Shimano used is hard core - worst paint Ive had to remove off a part...It probably took me a GOOD day to get it all out of the nooks and crannies with a tooth brush...
The ends of my pedals were mullered so after sanding and cleaning them up I was left with the problem of them being too smooth and loosing the orange peel effect. I tried putting a course emery cloth sandy side down on the pedal and hitting it with a hammer (gently) to get the surface roughed up. It sort of worked but mainly smashed the grit into dust....
I spray bombed them with a metallic anno look finish and they came out great. Good luck fella.
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wanted to piece the set together today ...forgot the grease waaah :laugh:
...repro'ing the orange texture - great idea ..! :daumenhoch: ..maybe put a sheet of paper (?) or smth between the ped and the grit to achieve a softer edged imprint ...? ...hmmm :chin:
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Next time Flo, put the paint stripper on, leave it for about 20min then use a small soft wire/copper brush to get the paint off, the wire brush will get into the tight spots and around the pins easy, you dont have to do the whole pedal at once,
(http://i993.photobucket.com/albums/af56/rex1977/0ba830891261931ae924773e1b9117be_zps15eb6e1b.jpg)
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You know, i thought the stripper alone had to do it, but of course :shocked: .. let a brush do some work! wow - why didn't i think of that? My only concern would be that even soft copper would scratch ...a bit? - But i'lldeffo give it a go and try it out. -- great tip there, thanks J's :daumenhoch:
That might also be a cure to the blemishes - because another suspicion i had was that it's the mega long soaking in the stipper that led to those 'stained'-looking parts. ...but i might be fantasizing again :D
Happy Christmas you all, :slayer:
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I get the brushes in a 3 pack from the hardware store, about $3au, hard wire, soft copper and stiff paint type bristle, the soft copper and the stiff bristle dont scratch the metal, there good for aluminium, the wire is good for around the welds on a cromo frame, :daumenhoch:
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...i think there should be at least one emergency hardware store in every city, what kind of world is this >:(
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coincidentally found this cloth with interwoven copper strands in a kitchen accessories store - was cheap, and my home depot didn't have a copper brush, so checked it out.... :teef:
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/DSC00981.jpg)
...as you can see the result ain't perfect .... the copper is the way to go, but .... look at the pegs and on the right side.... the thin black line . Yuch. So next time i'll try out a copper brush from ebay .... 3 Euros for a simple one from HK; or 4 for a set of two brushes like those Js' pic showed, in total
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/v521/fischflo/DSC00951.jpg)
/_O_/ \_O_\
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http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sealey-Wire-Brush-Set-3pc-Miniature-/190947987771?pt=AU_Tool_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c7563113b&_uhb=1
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Sealey-AK9791-3pc-Miniature-Brush-Set-Wire-Brushes-Tool-/310699416976?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item485720dd90&_uhb=1
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alright alright ;D ;D i got it, the pegs,...i'll get round to it
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top job :daumenhoch:
just for future ref , if the items you're stripping will fit in a plastic bag , get something like sandwich bags the ones with the press seal on top, put the paint stripper in the bag with the components so they get a good coating , squash out the air out the bag, seal it up then drop the sealed bag in some hot water , the stripper will turn to liquid after a bit but will work real well :daumenhoch:
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Ace tip there, Jim :D ....watch out future dx's stripped-to-be ! :surprise:
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method usually stops the orange tinge you get from leaving the stripper on to long :daumenhoch:
oh and keep an eye on the bags, let the fumes out if they start to expand , or they'll go POP! and you'll have to paint the kitchen ceiling before SHE gets home ;) ;) :LolLolLolLol:
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i gather that's rather important piece of advice ;D :daumenhoch:
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Try a wire wheel after youve filed the shape back in and you can get that original cast effect.
I read this a while back thought id give it a go.
Its not a quick process but the effect looks stunning I think.
Used a steel wire wheel in the end, found the brass wheel to be a bit pully.
(http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/sbill/Mobile%20Uploads/20140612_185351.jpg) (http://s737.photobucket.com/user/sbill/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140612_185351.jpg.html)
(http://i737.photobucket.com/albums/xx18/sbill/Mobile%20Uploads/20140612_185405.jpg) (http://s737.photobucket.com/user/sbill/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140612_185405.jpg.html)
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those look awesome! :daumenhoch:
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8) :4_17_5:
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ab-so-lu-tely stunning :shocked: - i was actually quite pleased with mine, till i saw yours :D. Might really have a go at this, not quite sure how you can wire in the cast effect with the wheel, but the result speaks for itself, i thinki'll try it out, great stuff :daumenhoch:, they look like right out the box :smitten:
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The finish on those are superb :4_17_5: As mentioned above I was chuffed with my resto on a pair of dx peds but the ends are smooth and I now want that finish :smitten:
Great work :daumenhoch:
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Great thread this - impressive results and some fab tips too. :daumenhoch: