RADBMX.CO.UK
Technical & Reference Section => Tech and Restoration => Topic started by: ED209 on March 28, 2014, 07:15 AM
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whats the process?
is there a lock nut on the back you need to take off first?
found this info but need some specific instructions : http://www.bikeguide.org/forum/index.php'topic=170555.0
how can you tell if you have a titanium spindle?
cheers all :)
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i take it the pedal threaded round bit is just spinning in the crank arm? ???
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Ed soak them in diesel and I will bring my vice and some hammers tomorrow night and see if we can sort them. Steve Animal will be there as well, so I bet we can sort it out :knuppel2: :2gunsfiring_v1: :Great_Britain:
Any chance of a picture so I can have a think? Not familiar with the cranks tbh :-\
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i take it the pedal threaded round bit is just spinning in the crank arm? ???
nope not spinning - firmly locked in :) pics later
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There's no lock nut Ed - same as any other crank it's just they're a right barsteward to get peds out. Basically soak em for a few days then try getting the peds out. Danger is is that you tw@t em so hard that the steel insert twists in the ally arm and you end up with a fooked set of cranks.
The second gen of Pr1mo cranks (the first with the inserts) were renown for doing this and Pr1mo at the time offered a free replacement if it happened. Well better on the later arms though.
Ti spindle - basically weight - weigh the spindle and compare to a steel one (I can weigh one if you need it) - sometimes Ti is a bit 'duller' than steel n'all (unless it's polished etc).
*ninja edit* just read Hollowbites lol - was thinking Powerbites :LolLolLolLol:
The 'locknut' you can see on the back of the arms is for the insert for the peds, not for securing the pedals in there.
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Dan I don't kow if they are Hollowbites or Powerbites? :-)
so just to help a thicky out - which way will they unscrew? I'm thinking anticlockwise? maybe ;D
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/i63/209ed/BMX/IMG_3258_zpsfcd9480f.jpg) (http://s69.photobucket.com/user/209ed/media/BMX/IMG_3258_zpsfcd9480f.jpg.html)
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I think they're later Powerbites Ed - although easiest way to tell is to take the arms off - hollow = hollow etc.
You don't need to take the inserts out Ed - soak em in WD40/Petty over night and take the peds out as per norm. The 'tings on the back Ed only deal with the steel inserts in the ally arms, don't touch em if you don't have to.
Tell you what holmes - I've got an identical fooked pair back home - wait until later this afternoon and when I'm back I'll tw@t em round for you and send you pics :)
PS - ticket sent today pour vous :daumenhoch:
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not budging.
but they are 'moving' so I guess its turned but not unscrewing as you said Rob :daumenhoch:
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My old ones did this, you could turn them, the inserts turned about 3/4 of a rev then stuck again, so the pedal would unscrew. (with force)
before I put new pedals in, I squirted loads of paint into the thread from the rear before tightening up, acted like loctite, worked. if you get this far, grease the pedal threads or you'll be in the same predicament in 2 weeks when you split and sell it!!
if you are struggling, bring them to me when you come to town.
MM
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got some info from Dan Le Whac that the threads of the inserts were unscrewing clockwise and the pedal threads were then anti clockwise.
Got the drive side pedal off with this science but then 'forgot' on the other side and turned it to the back ... which was clockwise and the insert came out as well ... screwed it back in but then broke my second spanner on them by twatting it.
Need to get another spanner and some pipes to do some 'pressure' and 'leverage' rather than 'twatting' ... spanners don't like 'twatting'.