RADBMX.CO.UK
Old School BMX 1980 - 1988 => Old School Race (riders ready, pedals ready... GO!!) => Topic started by: Avro on October 23, 2016, 03:19 PM
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I have been looking forward to this, now it is time to begin :)
This project was originally planned to feature a lugged Tange frame / ARX fork I have but the project has a different focus now; a T2 Tange Hot Heart with 2B Tange TX 1200 Champion fork. The lugged frame is cute but perhaps not worth the effort I have been putting into parts collection and selection to this point.
I bought the Hot Heart as a complete but none of the parts were original, mostly repop stuff. I could not really afford it so turned over the parts after first trying them on the lugged frame just in case that project would re-ignite. The Hot Heart frame and fork had been powder coated, badly at that. It was so thick with drips and massive build up in some areas. It was the kind of powder job that turns people off power coating full stop. Looks very shiney from a distance but up close Yuk. All the detail was lost, the tig welds at the steering head/gusset were lost, the frame number completely invisible "nono"
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So, the powder had to go. I already knew that the frame was chrome underneath, I was hoping for no nasty surprises with its condition. Time to slap on the Synstrype.
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Phew, it was much better than expected
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Yes, the chrome is dull and tired but nothing peeling and hardly any pitting at all. It looks like someone has been all over it with a brillo. I am very optimistic about the forthcoming rechrome.
I was a little puzzled by the blobby welding where the chain stays meet the bottom bracket, very un-Tange like, 'Burneresque' really! However, the welds are chromed so perhaps they are not rewelds, something I feared. I am still not sure what to make of it, I have not seen enough Hot Hearts to know if it is normal (thoughts would be welcome). I considered grinding them back and 'remodeling' but that would be fakery, if they are battle scars then they can stay.
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It feels good to make a start, more to come, thank you for reading.
Peter
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Can you not revive the original chrome rather than going down the route of an expensive rechrome?
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Not if it's been scratched
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The micro-scratching is all over the frame. Also the chrome is very thin in places, absent in some areas where it appears the nickle has been uncovered. This appears to be the result of an very aggressive polish at some point.
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Looks like it's been "keyed" to take the powder, not sure if this is necessary for powder as I'm only familiar with wet painting but I know a rechrome is very expensive.
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Those welds on the bb are deffo non factory. Looks like someone's Dad did it ???
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Looks like it's been "keyed" to take the powder, not sure if this is necessary for powder as I'm only familiar with wet painting but I know a rechrome is very expensive.
Even keying chrome won't stop powder from peeling off and when it goes it goes.
If you're going to powder a chrome frame get it de-chromed first or else you'll regret it "nono"
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Looks like it's been "keyed" to take the powder, not sure if this is necessary for powder as I'm only familiar with wet painting but I know a rechrome is very expensive.
Even keying chrome won't stop powder from peeling off and when it goes it goes.
If you're going to powder a chrome frame get it de-chromed first or else you'll regret it "nono"
Is it not just when chrome is flaking that it needs to be removed befrore powder? Weren't some frames like redlines and Haros powdered over chrome or were these wet painted?
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Those welds on the bb are deffo non factory. Looks like someone's Dad did it ???
I know what you mean, but my GT has lovely neat welds everywhere barring where the seat stays meet the seat tube where it looks like the welders gone for his tea break and let the apprentice finish it off.
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Looks like it's been "keyed" to take the powder, not sure if this is necessary for powder as I'm only familiar with wet painting but I know a rechrome is very expensive.
Even keying chrome won't stop powder from peeling off and when it goes it goes.
If you're going to powder a chrome frame get it de-chromed first or else you'll regret it "nono"
Is it not just when chrome is flaking that it needs to be removed befrore powder? Weren't some frames like redlines and Haros powdered over chrome or were these wet painted?
I'm sure that 99% of factory bikes were paint back in the day, I know my GTs are.
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Thanks for the input, really appreciated and I so hope there will be more.
I highlighted those welds because they looked out of place, but they have been chromed.
If it helps, the bottom bracket tube has been perforated to accept the chain stays and they fit perfectly.
May be there was a factory visit from, say, Nottingham? Who knows. Regardless, they stay and of course they do. Provenance is often counter to desire; but you have to run with it or else you counterfeit.
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I must have a look at Mrs S G's HH and see if hers is like that!
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Looking at them welds again they do look pretty "beefy" compared to the seat tube to bb weld!
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Yeah, I'd have to agree that those welds look very un-Tange like, especially knowing what quality-control is like over here. Aesthetics aside, however, they do look strong as, so no worries there. Good luck with the build - looking forward to seeing how it turns out! :daumenhoch:
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Frame and forks all packed up, really packed well and put in a strong box. Even the most determined courier won't be able to damage it. Hopefully I will get it sent away this week. I have only ever sent parts off for new chrome once and that was a rear bumper and two front quarter bumpers for a Ford Escort Mexico Mk1, what a car that was!. I am very excited about getting the frame back already.
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Time to have a look at the wheels. The rims are Ukai Speedlines in anodised blue :smitten:. They are in super condition, another polish and they will look nearly new. The hubs are Shimano DX, or possibly MX, dated 1979. I am not sure which as I have seen both types pretty much interchangeable and seen both types in both boxes. Not that it matters anyway, they are nice and shiney and I like cassette hubs. The cassette hub is silky smooth. Spokes are new Araya stainless.
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I did have one issue with the front hub. The hubs were sold to me as DX BMX hubs, obviously not much of a problem there. However I later noticed that the axle standard on the front hub was not a BMX standard, at least not one I am familiar with. The axle was 8mm and not 10mm, also the overall width was a nut too wide. I am thinking it was probably configured for a road or track bike. This was an easy fix as a 10mm axle swapped right in and removing the existing cone lock nuts and replacing them with two nos Suzue 'half' nuts did the trick. The only noticable difference now is a much closer tolerence between the cones and the ball bearing / grease retainers. Sorted.
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I take wheels to be built at my local bike shop. I guess I should teach myself how to build them but then I would have very little reason to go the local bike shop. That would be a pity because I really like them although trying to talk to them about BMX is impossible! Lycra is all they know but for a little bike shop they are fab.
At least now you have seen the first of the blue parts. I was chatting to someone the other day and they mentioned the blue theme and how they had tried it before but was disappointed because of all the different blues he ended up with. I think that is going to be almost impossible to avoid unless one were to strip everything and get them anodised at the same time and at the same place. Even then different base metals may result in differing shades. I will just hope it looks ok in the end, time will tell.
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Something you have to remember is that Tange offered a range of frame kits that comprised pre-fabricated sections and tube sets as well, this meant that companies bought the various pre-fab sections and tube sets and finished the kits in house, hence the significant difference in welding styles.
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That is very true, and thank you for pointing it out. Tange were a tube manufacturer, a competitor to Reynolds, Columbus, Koizumi et al. They also made lugs, fittings, dropouts and much more. It is a mistake to look at Tange as a BMX brand as BMX was only one element of their business. Hot Hearts appear in many different forms and are often branded differently depending on the market for which they were intended. I recently did a lot of research into a lugged frame I have all of the above was true for that as well.
The only caveat to that is that my Hot Heart has a conventional Tange serial number. Other 'makes' supplied complete or as kits by Tange do not, at least not so far as my research showed. I have a Taiwan made Diamond back, considered inferior to Japanese models, and the welding on that is superior to the chainstay welds on my Hot Heart. Anyway, I had great fun researching Tange and it still interests me. There is book in there somewhere: BMX componentary: the where the how and the who. :D
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That's a genuine Hot Heart, the front end is tig welded and the rear end is mig welded, why it was done that way I've no idea.
It's basically the same frame as the Kuwie ET and if you get a close up of the rear end of one of them they are the same.
The drops will have been mig welded to the looptail and in turn it's mig welded to the frame same as a Burner and same as yours.
You could have smoothed and tidied the welds but that's the way they are, worry no more :daumenhoch:
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I did have one issue with the front hub. The hubs were sold to me as DX BMX hubs, obviously not much of a problem there. However I later noticed that the axle standard on the front hub was not a BMX standard, at least not one I am familiar with. The axle was 8mm and not 10mm.
All the early looseball Shimano hubs, DX or MX (DX being anodised, MX being standard silver) had 10mm rear axles and 8mm front axles. They were simply the best hub around, cassette drive wise, with a very tight pawl ratio. I personally loved these hubs over any of the overpriced varieties that followed back then :daumenhoch:
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I hoped it was something like that! The pawl action is almost like a road bike hub (not quite Chris King but getting there). I have a set of Suntour hubs laced to Z rims on another bike and that rear, a cassette, has an equally good pawl action. In fact I wonder if the two cassette assemblies are the same; they certainly look uncannily similar.
I have read that the cassette hubs are not as strong as screw on freewheels? I would be surprised if this was the case as road bikes seem to cope, track bikes too.
Why is it that the majority of old school BMX bikes have screw on freewheels? In terms of pawl action, and therefore the ALL important quick engage, cassette hubs are far superior.
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A big parcel turned up this week, very exciting, it was from the chromers. I was not nervous because the base frame and fork were pretty good and my correspondence with the firm was very positive. Still I was thrilled, perfect.
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The rear dropouts were very good before but not this good!
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...and another shot for good measure.
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I have also been trying to source the last remaining parts I need for the build. This has been rewarding in itself. I swapped a pair of Shimano DX pedals for a seat post clamp, yes you read right :idiot2: I am a bit short at the moment and had to impose new rules on myself regarding buying parts. All parts had to be acquired through trade or funded by ebay vinyl record sales. I have been very successful on both fronts although parting with so many rare records that I have had for nearly 30 years was tough. Seat post clamp is a beauty mind and perfect for this build:
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It is good to be back on the build, I am going to take it slowly as it will have to be the last for a while :'(
I find sourcing decals quite fun except when trying to source from France :knuppel2:
The frame decals I source from Delcals. They are specials in deep blue made for me. I know most of you will know about Delcals but just to say that he has to be the most accomodating and reliable supplier out there. I have yet to order off-the-peg decals from him, all specials, and every time it has been perfect. If you are looking for decals but you do not see what you need on the Delcals site just tell him what you need and he will work with you if he can. Furthermore the prices are great too. Extraordinary :4_17_5:
Ok, stickered up:
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I had already bought some of the stickers from another great decal site in the States called Velocals.com. They are primarily a supplier of road bike decals, and a huge range to boot. They did however have the Tange Motocross Tubing decal I was after. So, to make the order viable, I added a 'Made in Japan' sticker (not og but I like it) and they also had the Tange fork decal with a very neat custom colour ordering system so I could easily gete them in blue :)
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I have actually arsed-up one of the downtube decals but I am not going to show you that :-[ I am sure Delcals will sort it as always.
Another score was a pair of O.G.K. Mach grips. I was alarmed at the prices asked for nos og grips, it is incredible really. I do not have that kind of money so had to compromise. I got the grips off the BMX museum, they are actually for 25mm bar fitment, apart from that they are exactly the same even down to the part number funnily enough.
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More tomorrow I hope.
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Oooh I love a good build thread ... Keep it coming Peter ... Fabulous looking Chrome ... Love a Hot Heart! :smitten:
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I have just noticed that I have arsed-up one of the fork decals as well :uglystupid2:
I have managed to save that one: phew
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Looking good so far :daumenhoch: keep updating :4_17_5:
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Great thread :4_17_5:
Looking good so far :daumenhoch: keep updating :4_17_5:
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Looking good Peter 8) :daumenhoch:
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Love it, great thread :daumenhoch:
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I picked up the wheels this morning and just had to share!
Ukai Speedlines, stainless Araya spokes and Shimano DX hubs: simple and utterly gorgeous :smitten:
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Of all the parts I have collected for this build I think these are the best.
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Great thread .. And this is going to look mint fistblump fistblump
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The headset has been fitted, a Tange MX2, and here is a piccy of the nos SR MS 422 stem and nos Tange LP 440 lock nut. Nothing flash just blue lovliness:
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The fork end plugs are pretty bashed about so I have replaced them with a pair of plastic end plugs for the princely sum of £1.70. I did consider getting them refinished but I think they would always look bashed, I will have course, keep them safe.
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So, it is coming along nicely:
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I spoke too soon. I have come across a problem that I had not anticipated. I had a nos SR bottom bracket aasembly in mind for this bike and merrily went to fit it today and, piddle, the axle is too short. I must confess I did not know there were different standards for American casings. The axle I have is a SR MX-2 dated feb 1984. It is 150mm total length. When I install it the main nut screws up, then on goes the washer leaving no threads at all. I sure many of you know about differing standards so I would be very grateful to be enlightened. Without knowing what is what I can not really look for a replacement. One positive is that I did not pay for the assembly. I must admit to being a bit gutted. Hoping someone can help. The bottom bracket shell is 68mm, which I thought they all were. When I mock up the axle assembly there is only 64mm between the main nut faces therefore nowhere near enough for the shell. Anyway heres a picture of said assembly:
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Damn axle is doing my head in Thumbs down. Here is a picture of the offending item and the lack of thread.
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Unless anyone has some ideas or can point out that I am being a numpty I will strip out the Diamond Back bottom bracket and use that for now. I probably wont get to this before the weekend but there is no rush.
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Hard to tell from pics but it looks like the bearing nut is pretruding a little ? are the beaings in the right way? Do the races fit nicely over the BB nuts?
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Bearings fit fine in the cups and the nuts. The nuts are pretty much flush with the cups. I can not see anything wrong other than too much axle on the fixed side and not enough on the adjuster side. Not to worry, surgery is booked for the diamond back failing finding a replacement.
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I am going to be sad when this bike is finished as I look forward to the weekend when I can spend some quality time with the beauty. There is plenty of over-time at work at the moment so perhaps I should be looking for the next project....
....a Shimano frame would be ideal....maybe Kuwahara.... :whistle:
I have a healthy lead on an axle that will actually fit, pending agreeing a price all will be good. Turns out that the SR axle is indeed too short which still baffles me as it is standard fitment to some. Never mind, it would be dull if there were not little problems to overcome every now and again. Also, in the search for answers and/or parts, you get to chat BMX to people be it through email.
In the absence of the axle, the cranks and chainwheel were to be up next, attention must lie elsewhere. Replacement decals arrived this morning, one of the downtube decals which I arsed up royally and fork decals. I told a little white lie last time saying I had saved the fork decal. In fact it distorted slightly, barely noticeable until you know and then it looks like complete crap :-[ This has actually been a boon as it was suggested to me that perhaps they could be custom made to really match the frame decals. Delcals made the suggestion and chose the format, I am rapidly building a bromance with delcals....
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I have two sets of bars which could work. A set of chrome Win bars and a set of anodised blue bars of unknown make. The aluminium bars are very well made and resemble the win bars very closely. The Win bars are slightly wider and the knurling is a different pattern. I was looking for a set of blue bars for a little while, even posted on here about them. Just as I made that post it was like buses on ebay with three pairs listed back-to-back. I did place a pretty healthy bid on a set of Race Inc. bars, which was a little hasty as I really wanted all Japanese components. However the blue mist came down and the itchy finger placed a bet :idiot2: Luckily I did not win and subsequently scored the blue bars in an off-ebay sale. They are not nos, clearly they have been fitted before but I suspect not in anger, probably ex-show or something like that.
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I am going with the blue anodised bars, they are a lovely match to the head lock and calipers :) If anyone has any ideas about the origin of the bars please chime in. The seller, who I believe is active on here, did not know.
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The brakes were surprisingly easy to source and perfect for the build as many Hot Hearts were equipped thus. Shimano DX levers, Shimano MX cables and cable tidies and Shimano Tourney calipers: lovely. Again nothing flash but correct and beautiful condition, everything clearly nos and all except the calipers bnib :D
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A nice foil decal came with the cables. It is too big for a frame tube, although it could work on the seat post tube although I think it would be a bit crowded there. I was thinking what I would have done with such a sticker back in the day. I did not have a race plate so that is out, no tool box either, not even a BMX scrap book. Incidently, do kids still keep scrapbooks? Probably replaced by some Facebook app. no doubt. I definitely would have slapped it on somewhere.
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Great progress so far :coolsmiley:
If the BB is still a problem one of these should work...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bottom-Bracket-Crank-Conversion-Set-to-3-Piece-suit-Old-School-Vintage-BMX-/221526825730?hash=item3394071b02:m:m0hIw10PesnETGCMFfstnjQ
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bottom-Bracket-Crank-Conversion-Set-3-Piece-Sealed-Bearing-BMX-/221749930616?hash=item33a1536a78
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Thank you for the tip. I had seen the Aussie parts but feel it would be such a shame to go the repop route when I have tried so hard to be era correct and tight on specification. When I first started back into BMX I bought repop parts, MX1000's and seatpost clamps, and regreted it. Don't get me wrong, nothing wrong with repop (my GT still sports a Profile Lockjaw) it is just that the deeper you get into the scene the more those parts start to glare at you. My Raleigh Aero Pro has repop MX1000's and they do not look like the real thing, they just don't once you 'know'. I have a set of correct MX900's waiting for it; when I find the cash to get them anodised black they will replace the repop, they are currently raw.
I used to be heavily into a very specific model/specification motorcycle scene. Repop parts were called 'pattern' parts. They were approximations of the originals and in no way did they enhance a build. I was a purist then, but I had access to one of the best back stock of parts imaginable and a plethora of contacts around the world. I do not have those resources available for the BMX bikes but then again the number and complexity of parts is nothing like it either.
I am confident that my current lead will pan out, the Tioga axle would be just fine. Failing that I am following a another complete nos assembly on evilbay at the moment. Problem with that it in the states so lots of postage and the risk of import duties. However, there is no rush.
Thanks again and keep watching.
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Thank you for the tip. I had seen the Aussie parts but feel it would be such a shame to go the repop route when I have tried so hard to be era correct and tight on specification. When I first started back into BMX I bought repop parts, MX1000's and seatpost clamps, and regreted it. Don't get me wrong, nothing wrong with repop (my GT still sports a Profile Lockjaw) it is just that the deeper you get into the scene the more those parts start to glare at you. My Raleigh Aero Pro has repop MX1000's and they do not look like the real thing, they just don't once you 'know'. I have a set of correct MX900's waiting for it; when I find the cash to get them anodised black they will replace the repop, they are currently raw.
I used to be heavily into a very specific model/specification motorcycle scene. Repop parts were called 'pattern' parts. They were approximations of the originals and in no way did they enhance a build. I was a purist then, but I had access to one of the best back stock of parts imaginable and a plethora of contacts around the world. I do not have those resources available for the BMX bikes but then again the number and complexity of parts is nothing like it either.
I am confident that my current lead will pan out, the Tioga axle would be just fine. Failing that I am following a another complete nos assembly on evilbay at the moment. Problem with that it in the states so lots of postage and the risk of import duties. However, there is no rush.
Thanks again and keep watching.
No probs :daumenhoch:
Paul Allerton aka Snav on here has an og SR one for sale for £40.
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Thanks again for the input, all is welcome.
I have searched for Snav posts and nothing after August?
Is this a Facebook sale (I have had a few prompts that tell me that that is where it is at now)? If as you say it is an SR axle then I have an SR MX-2 and it is too short (demonstrated by my friend with the Tioga axle).
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Thanks again for the input, all is welcome.
I have searched for Snav posts and nothing after August?
Is this a Facebook sale (I have had a few prompts that tell me that that is where it is at now)? If as you say it is an SR axle then I have an SR MX-2 and it is too short (demonstrated by my friend with the Tioga axle).
For a decent build thread like this one ;) and help and advice you can rely on and a Bike of the Month Comp this is where it's at.
FB is where a lot of stuff is traded and good for ride out info.
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Thanks again for the input, all is welcome.
I have searched for Snav posts and nothing after August?
Send him a pm... he was online a coupla days ago.
The Hot Heart's looking good mate. :daumenhoch:
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Brakes all fitted and looking very nice indeed. It is all coming together nicely. The calipers are both November 1982 but the levers are March 1984 and September 1983. I will allow the slightly out of date!
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The cable tidies are very cute :coolsmiley:
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The brake blocks are also stamped Shimano.
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I may revisit the grips, I am not entirely happy with the O.G.K.s although they fit the build nicely.
One area I would appreciate some input is tyres. I have looked at a lot of bikes with a similar theme and can not decide what route to go down. Bikes with blue tyres look good but I am not sure if it is a little over doing it. Bikes with black skinwalls look purposeful, more dynamic I think. The reissue Tioga comp III look very nice, although I have not seen them in the flesh. I am thinking thin/thin. However I do have a pair of Mitsoboshi Comp III in blue but both fat; they are also very hard and somewhat degraded although I am sure they would dress up nicely but doubt very much if they would be rideable. Thoughts and personal preferences appreciated "help"
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For the saddle I have gone for a little luxury and I have gone for new. Perhaps I will look for a nos blue saddle but they really seem sought after. Ideally I would want an Elina Lightning bolt, it would be the ultimate for this build, but can not justify the expense and I simply do not have that kind of money Skint This lovely padded, suede topped Kashimax Aero will have to do and it is hardly slumming it!
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I have two nice seatposts. A nos Renthal laidback and a nos SR Laprade. Obviously this build will have the SR which is really lovely. Also the blue SR is a near perfect colour match for the bars, lock nut and calipers which is a bonus. I do however prefer laidbacks but the Renthal would not go with the theme.
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You may have noticed that the blue SR stem top is much darker than the other blue components, I think it is a painted finish, but do not fear it still works as you will see in a future installment. I have really tried to think the aesthetics of the build through, if it does not work I will cry :crybaby:
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I have just realised I have not given a credit to the chromer, who I think has done a cracking job. In fact the chrome is so thick I am having a bit of a problem fitting the seatpost clamp.
The platers I went with were Chromefix in Birmingham. :4_17_5:
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I have had to very hastily fit my O.G.K. Mach grips before I do something very silly on ebay. Damn it! Blue Tange grips but I just can not afford them. I must resist, I must resist....resistance is futile....nooooooooooooooooooooo....resist resist resist.....O.G.K. O.G.K O.G.K for the win!
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Some good news. A very nice nos Tioga CV170 spindle is on its way to Tange H.Q. as we speak. That means the build is coming to an end :( Still I am lining up another project. It has to be something modest as funds are rather short. I do have a lugged Tange frame here but I can not summon the enthusiasm for that for some reason. It has lovely lines, meh one day. I am quite interested to strip the paint off that and see how good the lug work is. Another time.
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Some more parts to show you. SR 170mm cranks, 44T chainwheel, bolts and end caps. All nos except for the end caps which are alright although if some minty ones came up at ok money I would snaffle them up.
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I know these cranks are pretty common and not top end but I do like their simplicity. I have a set on my Diamond Back as well. Maxy Cross seem to go for double the price of these. I do like Maxy Cross a lot, I have a minty red set on a Raleigh Aero Pro, but you have to cut your cloth as it were. They suit this build to a tee so I am happy. Before I got this chainwheel I had not seen another like it with the machined line relief, I like it a lot. Also, this is my plan for colour matching which I think is going to work. There are essentially two blues going on, the light anodised (seat post, calipers, lock nut, handlebars)and the dark painted/anodised (stem top, cranks, chainwheel and pedals). The decals marry the two, the flash and constant soft lighting make the decals look a totally different blue in reality. Hopefully I will get some natural light shots in the future. I had considered a set of Cobra grips as that blue is often dark but I do not really like them to be honest. Perhaps I should dye the Machs darker?
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It's unlikely the grips will dye, I know a fair few have tried to no avail afaik.
As for the different shades of blue it's no biggie as the shades of annodised alloy and plastics always have been different, it'll still look the part when complete.
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The missing link arrived this morning in the form of a Tioga conversion axle courtesy of SiGhTeK, rad member who replied to my wanted ad. Thank you again, hope I can return the favour one day :)
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I have seen this axle more commonly advertised as a Tange CV170, indeed it is stamped with the Tange trademark. I am not entirely up on the seemingly interwined business of Tange, Tioga, SR, Suntour etc. I know many were under an umbrella business at one time (courtesy of research by Monkian that I stumbled upon the other day :bow:). I am interested in this and must make more effort to find out.
Cranks installed and looking better than I had ever hoped, I am thrilled. I think that once the wheels go on it will pop big time.
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I am also looking forward to my home returning to some normality. Putting a bit of effort into the photography has come at a cost. My living room looks like an amateur porn studio, or how I imagine an amateur porn studio to look be it a bit grubbier and probably a bit smelly. Also you may not see bicycle wheels as props. Regardless of that I have enjoyed the photography, I hope it has added to the thread.
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still loving this thread Peter - it's great to see the progress & I look forward to seeing it all together
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As it's coming together the blues are matching up just fine :coolsmiley:
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Looking good, you need a bit of variation in the colour tones as that's exactly what it was like bitd even for factory completes :daumenhoch:
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Some fun parts arrived in the post this morning, four sets of frame pads: Yellow, blue, white and chrome!
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I seem to like to buy my bikes 'outfits'. My GT has four (red, black, chrome and blue), the Diamond Back two (yellow and red), however my Raleigh Aero Pro remains in the buff! I'm I the only one who likes to buy their bikes the latest season?
The pads are nicely made but they are only made with stickers. They look great from a few feet away (except the blue set which does not really work and the sticker on the crosssbar pad is on the p*$£) but up close the stickers are self evident. I know I will never be happy with them but they are fun for now.
The yellow pads really pop on the bike, at least I think so. I am thrilled about this because the only badged up Hot Heart I have seen with Shimano pads sported yellow ones so that is a result. The Hot Heart in question is none other than Bobby Encinas pictured in a Shimano Catalogue sporting all things DX and a wicked two speed set up "wantit"
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I have been chatting today with Esemdesign and he is going to make a proper set in yellow for me. It is the first set of Shimano BMX Racing Components pads he has done which is nice :slayer:
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Thought I would share the current state of affairs. Tyres are fitted, sprocket on back wheel, wheels fitted and chain installed. The tyres are the reissue Tioga Comp. IIIs, I can not and will not spend silly money on nos oe tyres. Don't get me wrong, if money was no object, but blimey the asking prices! The sprocket is Sturmley Archer, great as there are so many sizes available. I have gone for a 15 for no reason in particular. Chain is Izumi. I managed to resist the blue Tange grips that were recently on ebay but it was touch and go at one point.
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I could not resist fitting the yellow pads to see how they look. I have had to cellotape the stem pad up as it is miles too big. An Esemdesign pad set has been ordered and, as the stem is essentially the same as that fitted to Burners, the fit should be better. All is coming together nicely now. There are few other fun bits to go on the bike, and of course the proper pad set, but sadly the build is coming to an end. I am looking into a few possible projects for the future, waiting on a few replies and the like. The next one will have to use as many parts bin parts as possible, luckily I have a few key components for a nice Japanese build already. I race ahead, hopefully the Hot Heart will be finished at the latest by the New Year :daumenhoch:
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OMG there are now nos proper Tange grips on ebay today. I feel ill.
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Nice bike and a great thread :4_17_5:
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Keep going mate .. Great thread .. Love those shimano pads .. fistblump
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Excellent build thread. The bike looks great :daumenhoch:
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This thread ist awesome and a super interesting read, too! :daumenhoch: ....Maybe someday you could replace the sprocket with a Shimano Dx combo :D that would be excellent
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It has all been a bit quiet on the Hot Heart front lately what with oddles of over-time and other stuff. However I have had a bit of fun with the bike today. In the spirit of all things blue I picked up these a while ago:
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I know they are not the bees knees but I like them a lot. Not 'made in Japan' but close enough! The numbers are yet another Delcals creation. The plate I think is by 'Cycle Craft', not the splatter paint guys but a cheerful accessories manufacturer back in the day. The brake guard is a humble 'Accord BMX' item which I could not resist.
I think they look great but I would. Just the pad set to go now and it will be on to the next project.
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I am planning to scout for a suitable outdoor location for the final photographs this afternoon. Wish me luck.
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Damn, I don't know how I missed this :/ Lovely build and awesome thread Peter ;)
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Thanks for that Paul. Just waiting on the pad set now for the final photographs. I am so please how the bike has turned out. By the way, you have the frame number in your database and it is the earliest T2 there at the moment.
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Another pad set. :LolLolLolLol:
Looks great Peter. :daumenhoch:
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Turned out great :coolsmiley:
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Further to post regarding blobby welds on Hot Hearts.
A reminder of mine:
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I was initially concerned about it but no longer.
I came across this today:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/old-school-bmx-Tange-Hot-Hart-/262798332336?hash=item3d300051b0:g:uPgAAOSwnHZYcjTZ
Check out the downtube welding at the bottom bracket., and this is said to be nos. By the way I am by no means criticising the frame set, just intrigued by the variation in welding standards.
I am becoming an anorak!
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Great build mate..
Loving the details..
Quick question..
Have you the link for the chrome fork end caps.
Got tange set of tx 1200 forks just refurbished but missing the caps..
Cheers fistblump
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Sure:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221820014612?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Just bought 4 cheap as chips...
Cheers mate.. fistblump
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Have just read through the whole thread & I am VERY impressed. Love the chrome & blue. The SR seatpost is the right choice too. I really like bikes with a themed punchout in the gusset. The Aussie Super Roo with the Roo profile in the gusset is another of these. My own bikes just have a boooooring round hole.
Your 1979 hubs I found interesting. The very early versions of this type were model HF-500 & the digital version of the ad that I have does not mention any colours.
By 1979 there were two versions of these hubsets, the FH-MX40 which was painted in Gold, Red or Blue, plus of course the natural silver of the alloy. Some of the front hubs in this version bears the appearance of being made in three pieces but not all they have the same profile as the others.
Then there is the FH-MX60 which was in a different grade of alloy & was anodised in the same three colours plus the natural alloy silver. The original front axles for this series of hubs were the 5/16" size, & forks came with spacer adapters to allow fitment in forks made for 3/8 axles. I suspect that your hubs are the better FH-MX60's & the 3/8" axle conversion is a good upgrade.
Here's some more info
http://oldschool-bmx-parts.blogspot.com.au/1978/08/shimano-mx-freehub-hubs.html (http://oldschool-bmx-parts.blogspot.com.au/1978/08/shimano-mx-freehub-hubs.html)
Speaking of forks, I was a little surprised that you went with the entry level TX1200 which was listed by Tange as a street rider fork. Not recomended for competition which means that they are a mild steel fork.
I would have thought that you might have used the TX500W which is listed as their Street/ Race fork. They were available as early as the latter part of 1979.
Anyway, I hope I can do as good a job with the pictures & description of my own 1978 build when the time comes as you have set the bar high.
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Thanks for that and the super info.
The bike is now finished and I am just waiting for a sunny day to photograph it and bring this thread to a conclusion.
The forks are og to the frame so no reason to change, anyway a Hot Heart is not really top end. It is however extremely cute.
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Looking good :daumenhoch: