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Technical & Reference Section => Tech and Restoration => Topic started by: harris on March 09, 2007, 08:05 AM
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i have done a fair few wrattle can jobs and they all sucked rearly
so im gonna try another on a hack ride so not to important
top tips needed .
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top tip.
warm your room.
put the rattle cans in a washing up bowl of hot water.
dont expect to get it right and shiny for quite a while, just keep layering and layering.
especially round the areas that will get more abuse when you flat it down with wet and dry. ie the dropout edges. Laquer it if you want, i do usually, but paint thats been flatted and polished usually looks good.
leave it for at least 3 days before flatting it.
then t-cut.
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and dont take it outside with greasy hands and drop it hehe
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twat.
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notice i didnt put up the lol sign......heh heh
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how many coats of laquer do you use,i generaly give it 4 coats but will need to let it harden for longer.
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well, i usually just buy 2 big cans, and use it all. i dont usually spray the entire frame at once, cos if you do, you always manage to overspray a certain bit and get runs. i do all the hard bits, and leave it, then do the main tubes.
thats the hardest bit, i work on the principle that it can be a bit patchy, cos it will all be flatted smooth.
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A mate of mine told me before you t- cut it get the finest grade wire wool you can get and give it a good rub over this will remove the tiny dust particles you dont get when your in a proper spray cubilce then t -cut it back so its shiney again then put your decals on, then you protect it
hope this helps dan ?
flaz
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heat is the key
get your paint warm like phil said - leave the cans on the radiator, or in the airing cupboard for a while. or the hot water trick. either is good.
also get the frame warm too.
lash on as much primer as you can afford, then wet flat that
wet flat it with 400. that'll do. if you go through the primer, put more on then wet flat again.
this will give you a smooth surface for the paint
panel wipe is useful here
put the top coat on in layers
keep it hot
when you have finished put the stuff somewhere warm for at least a week
spray can paint takes 7 days to go hard
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also, when you are wet flatting dont use just the paper
wrap the paper around a rag. keeps lots of water on the job
stops the paper filling up too quick
if you are dry sanding anything, take the sheet of sandpaper, split it in half
then take that half and fold it into a third of it's size
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yep, loads of water.......i stand mine in the sink, on a sponge to protect the drops.
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wouldnt heat the cans to much !!!! room temp works ok . the main thing is the primer coat do it real thick then once dry use p600 wet n dry to flat the primer real smooth then use p800 wet over it then yer ready for paint
hang frame up in nice clean garage get the garage over 20*c then spray light coat all over give this 10 min to go off then coat again all over waint another 10 min then yer ready to put thicker coat on n go for the finish
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I wouldn't advize the '1980's council estate Burner' method, of just sticking the whole bike up against a wall (preferably not your dads garage wall....someone elses) and then just spray as hard as you can.....covering everything in it's path.....Tyres, cranks, seat tube...the lot! :daumenhoch:
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notice i didnt put up the lol sign......heh heh
thats ok my fruity friend
a nice dry slap coming ure way soon :P
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I'd just get SuperbikeDan to powder the damn things :LolLolLolLol:
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dan the top tip i can give you is,
send it to me :coolsmiley: ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
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i no dan but this is only a cheap hack and doesnt warrant a proper job as it will be abused by
kids and probably nicked ;) i will get one up to you 1 day.
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hammerite.
cant beat it lol.
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hammerite.
cant beat it lol.
Not so fast with the humour, sir.
I got pretty good results with some cans of black Smoothrite. The GT bars I painted in about 1988 haven't need much doing to them since, so I repeated the process on the StreetBeat. Obviously not a mirror-smooth and glossy professional finish, but good enough for a rider.
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With regards to using hot water to warm up the cans, make sure its not too hot as they do go with quite a bang!!!!!!!
Yellow primer over red car in garage, :10_2_12:blew the small swafega tub the water was in to bits :LolLolLolLol:
Brother was lucky he had just turned away from it as it went off.
Good luck
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loving the avatar ;)
:daumenhoch:
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i have started,the frames being a nightmare to strip,its like concrete not alots moving it.
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and not to hot as it dries b4 hitting said frame lol
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Bit of a lengthy thread but - http://www.volkszone.com/VZi/showthread.php't=234403
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vzi keep forgetting to go on there lol
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hammerite.
cant beat it lol.
i used it a lot
does a nice tough finish
just sprayed the centre section of some 7x type rims, in white. it looks good!
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40 notes to powder coat frame and forks how much cheaper do ya need
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£5 :)
i just fancied having a go at it as it will be a rough ride .believe me its not a money thing :daumenhoch:
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:-[
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pics
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if its just a rider wich needs a cheap blow over, wet and dry your frame and sand out all the scratches then use a full big tin of plastikote rattle cans from B+Q, there are plenty of colours to choose from and I think it is far better than Hammerite and car sprays. :)
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i used that plastikote stuff to paint a bike pink
it wasn't as good as hammerite, not as hard, but there was a good colour choice (that i didn't make)
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just put on 4 coats of primer now outside in the hot sun.
then flatten or paint straight on.
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wet flat it 400 or higher before you put on the top coat
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Does it make a lot of difference then if you flat it before spraying? (I thought the primer would be pretty smooth to start with - but hey - I know F all about spraying!)
And how long does it need to harden before rubbing down? (Looks like it could take days just for a couple of layers?)
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(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/f322/craze01/400-741124.jpg) You can get this primer from halfords and it is the dogs nads for bare frames.
Spray this on leave it a few days and then wet and dry before using a halfords spray colour. Give the halfords spray a few days to dry and then cut back with wet and dry then a clear lacquer finish.
Cut the lacquer back with wet and dry after a few days and then polish up using a 3m rubbing compound and then a good turtle wax or other polish. I did this lambretta that way last year taking my time and using the halfords paint.
Its much better than the ols holts crap they used to sell and smoothrite is crap now as they had to take all the stuff out of the paint that made it good.
whatever you do dont buy hycote paint it is pure dross. (http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/f322/craze01/dugispics043.jpg)