RADBMX.CO.UK
Technical & Reference Section => Tech and Restoration => Topic started by: funkyfresh on October 05, 2007, 01:28 PM
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I'm just finishing of my first build, a TA survivor. It’s got copy MX1000 callipers.
They never seem to return to centre setting, the RH side (viewed from front) seems to not really move away from wheel much at all.
From memory side pull brakes have that characteristic, don’t they? Is there anything I’m doing wrong? :crazy2:
.....waits for loads of abuse!! :idiot2:
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Some have a self centre mechanism on top but if you don't have those the old trick is to tap down on the rear spring.
That sounds like gibberish! sorry!
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Can anyone explain in English?
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Some have a self centre mechanism(YOURS DOESN'T) on top but if you don't have those the old trick is to tap down on the rear spring. (THE SIDE THATS HIGHER, PLACE A SCREW DRIVER ON THAT SIDE ON THE SPRING BIT AND WHACK THE SCREWWY WITH A BIG FOOK OFF HAMMER TO MOVE THE SPRING DOWN LEVEL WITH THE OTHER SIDE AND IT RELEASES WITH THE SAME DISTANCE ON BOTH SIDES.
That sounds like gibberish! sorry!
:LolLolLolLol:
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Here is a quick way:
If its a quick reliese brake, open the quick reliese to open out the arms.
Un hook the springs from behind the arm that is staying on.
Bend the spring up to give more force on that side. Use a small ring spanner or a small metal tube to bend it up (dont go mad)
hook up the spring again.
Do up the QR again.
Check the brake, repeat if you need (it may take a few times)
HOZAT?!
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Some have a self centre mechanism(YOURS DOESN'T) on top but if you don't have those the old trick is to tap down on the rear spring. (THE SIDE THATS HIGHER, PLACE A SCREW DRIVER ON THAT SIDE ON THE SPRING BIT AND WHACK THE SCREWWY WITH A BIG FOOK OFF HAMMER TO MOVE THE SPRING DOWN LEVEL WITH THE OTHER SIDE AND IT RELEASES WITH THE SAME DISTANCE ON BOTH SIDES.
That sounds like gibberish! sorry!
:LolLolLolLol:
:LolLolLolLol: :LolLolLolLol:
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THanks for your help guys, i'm gonna try the bening spring trick tonight......
have a good one..
M :LolLolLolLol:
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Just to add to the spring bending you can twist the center pin a bit with a spanner on the rear fixing nut up as well. Before you do this though check that the pivot nuts aren't too tight as this will stop the caliper opening up when you release the lever. You have to be careful not to loosen it too much though as the caliper arms will be a bit sloppy.
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The best way to centre them is to use a cone spanner (nice and thin) on the main spindle which should have flat sides, pulling the lever while turning the cone spanner in the right direction (depending on which side is out of centre) should get a spot on centre for the brake :daumenhoch:.
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Some have a self centre mechanism on top but if you don't have those the old trick is to tap down on the rear spring.
That sounds like gibberish! sorry!
not gibberish................a gentle tap with a pin punch and hammer right on top of the spring ring. or just get shimano tourney's :daumenhoch:
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The bending of the spring trick worked a treat, thanks..
Anyone remember who had the self centring mechanisms for MX brakes for sale a while back? - (for another project)
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you need the later centre bolt to use those fella, they dont work on regular mx1000/900's
Dave