RADBMX.CO.UK
Technical & Reference Section => Tech and Restoration => Topic started by: Brandy Truffle on December 07, 2007, 06:20 PM
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What an arse... gave a mate of mine who owns an Engineering company my set of Arayas from BITD to strip ano and polish,Rims great cond still,Bullseye Hubs virtually mint once i'd cleaned crap off them...
I didnt have time to strip them,but in conversation he said,no worries,he'd get one of the lads who was doing the polishing to do it,asked if i wanted to keep spokes,i said no gonna rebuild...
You can guess whats happened...... Geezer has snipped spokes off at the hubs and now i cant get the sprocket off....which means no re-use
Looked for a bit of advice on wheelbuilding and saw ALANS build page here..
http://www.alansbmx.com/wheelbuild.php
....If the wheels requires stripping (ie/the spokes taking out) there is a 5.00 change for this. IMPORTANT if you are stripping your own wheel YOU MUST REMOVE THE FREEWHEEL (if freewheel type) FIRST! If you do not do this we cannot get the freewheel off and we are all stuffed.
Any advice guys? :-\
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cant you just do a quick relace even if its just one side with tention you should still be able to budge it.
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Of all the things i thought of..... i didnt think of that! I wouldnt mind if it was an old set of Suzues or something,but i did paper rounds for 6 months to pay for those wheels :idiot2: So,i dont really wanna lose the hubs.
Cheers Harris. A few quid spent on some spokes will be worth it hopefully! :daumenhoch:
Just hope the kid hasn't put it in a vice yet! :uglystupid2:
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i have done a couple of these,i ended up using a disc cutter carefully cutting through sprocket from three different angles being careful not to damage threads,good luck ;)
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Vice squash the freewheel tight and then turn .....works a treat as ive done the same mi sel :-\
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just do a quick relace with some wankey spokes and rim, its alot quicker
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just do a quick relace with some wankey spokes and rim, its alot quicker
Just as Pete says (I find myself surprised at typing that :LolLolLolLol:)
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depends how close to the hub the spokes have been cut.
I bought a set of bullseye hubs and didn't realise the spokes had been cut out and I have tried the local bikes shop and my own various methods and I cannot the bloody cluster off >:(
The problem with the Bulleyes is that they are three piece and unfortunately the cluster side flange does not extend across the barrell like the other side does.
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/y91/frosty_paul/Hubs.jpg)
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My LBS had to re-lace when I bought a pair of hubs & the previous owner had left the freewheel on !! twat !
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What ever you do to hold the hub, its a good idea to get the freewheel apart first so you dont have to use a crappy freewheel removing tool. Try grinding the lock ring off or grinding the teeth ring in half. It should all come apart and you will be left with just the inner core, which is easy to get a good hold of in a vice, and you screw the hub away from it.
I have heard about people making "pin tools" out of a lump of ally and dowl pins, but I think lacing a rim onto the free side of the hub has got to be the way ... as long as the hub aint in 3 sectons. You might find you end up with the free flange coming away from the center tube (I dont know how bullseye hubs are constructed?)
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What an arse... gave a mate of mine who owns an Engineering company my set of Arayas from BITD to strip ano and polish,Rims great cond still,Bullseye Hubs virtually mint once i'd cleaned crap off them...
I didnt have time to strip them,but in conversation he said,no worries,he'd get one of the lads who was doing the polishing to do it,asked if i wanted to keep spokes,i said no gonna rebuild...
You can guess whats happened...... Geezer has snipped spokes off at the hubs and now i cant get the sprocket off....which means no re-use
Looked for a bit of advice on wheelbuilding and saw ALANS build page here..
http://www.alansbmx.com/wheelbuild.php
....If the wheels requires stripping (ie/the spokes taking out) there is a 5.00 change for this. IMPORTANT if you are stripping your own wheel YOU MUST REMOVE THE FREEWHEEL (if freewheel type) FIRST! If you do not do this we cannot get the freewheel off and we are all stuffed.
Any advice guys? :-\
Just make sure your mate tells young fella me lad polishing monkey that you still want the raised centre section on the rim if it's a 7X ! . After this you never know ::)
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Alex,
That is exactly the problem with the bullseyes, they are 3 piece :tickedoff:
I have already damaged the pristine blue on the rear hub, but on way or another I intend to win this battle :knuppel2:
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That is exactly the problem with the bullseyes, they are 3 piece :tickedoff:
Wow, check me out! Ive never even really seen a set of bullseye hubs. All these OS guys tellin you how to do it and it would have ripped your hubs apart! :LolLolLolLol:
So, to tell you more about the pintool idea. Take a lump or thick sheet of ally. Like 10mm thick but nice and long like a big spanner, and wider than the hub flange (kinda like a very big chopping knife). Draw a circle out on one end that is the same dia as the spoke holes. Cut the inside of the hole out, and make the end of the "spanner" into a "C" shape, like a tool for euro BBs. The part you cut out needs to be big enough to get the center of the hub shell inside it. Drill holes in the C shape that are the same size and pattern as the holes in the flange (you will only have half of a full flange left cos its only a C). Insert steel dowl pins to the ally, maybe even locktight them in. Now you have a tool that MIGHT get enough grip on the inside of the drive flange to turn it away from the freewheel (that will be held in a vice).
I hope that makes sence. If the tool doesnt work you can always use it to go hit the bloke who cut the wheel up!!! :knuppel2:
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how about trying one of them constrictor tools the rubber grippy belt type thing on the hub and a free wheel tool, I always put the wheel nut back on against the freewheel tool to stop it slipping.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BOA-CONSTRICTOR-TWIN-PACK_W0QQitemZ230198910015QQihZ013QQcategoryZ66916QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Think they sell them in B&Q, just go in with your hub and freewheel tool and try it, dont have to buy it >:D
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air chisel
thats what got mine off and they was the ones from
the bottom of the sea hubs
funmonster had
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WOW Thanks for all the advice guys...think i'm gonna go with the one sided re-spoke first and see what happens...these hubs are too special for me... dont wanna risk it..will let you know how i get on..
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dont do a one sided respoke on it, it may fook the hub.
Find a way of holding the hub without damaging it and then on the front of the freewheel there is a plate with two holes in, this holds the freewheel together.
Take a small drift or screwdriver and put it in one of these holes then knock it ANT-clockwise, with a bit of work this will unscrew and then the freewheel will come apart, you will have a million tiny ball bearings and some tiny springs all over your kitchen floor but more importantly the ring with the teeth on will pull off the hub leaving only the inner part left on the hub.
This should expose the spoke holes so you can lace and tension it up properly on both sides then using a vice hold the remaining bit of freewheel and using the wheel as leverage turn the wheel anti clockwise and spin it off the knackered freewheel
:) DINGO :)
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what dingo said ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ :daumenhoch:
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I wish this thread had existed 2 months ago... :-[
On my workshop shelf I have one destroyed Suzie Hub & one Suntour Hub.... :-\
Great Advice guys.. next time I will follow it... :daumenhoch:
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I have tried the grippa thingy but there isn't enough of the freewheel side of the hub to get a grip on.
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if you feel your gonna wreck it and are willing to pay the postage both ways, i'll do it for you.
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Sthil saw :daumenhoch:
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it's not difficult, you need an angle grinder, some masking tape, a vice, some wood and a cloth(not to mention goggles) use wood and cloth in vice to carefully grip your masked off hub(spray from grinder will mark any finish on said hub), with a thin(and i mean thin) cutting disk(you will need a few but they are cheap) proceed to cut through the cogs being carefull to not cut into the screw thread, or into the hub, and not in one go or it will get too hot and damage the finish. Experience and patience are important. use both hands on the grinder and use a 125mm grinder not a big stupid 230mm or something. I've done it twice now and it's a pain in the arse but it's nice to keep the hubs.
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it's not difficult, you need an angle grinder, some masking tape, a vice, some wood and a cloth(not to mention goggles) use wood and cloth in vice to carefully grip your masked off hub(spray from grinder will mark any finish on said hub), with a thin(and i mean thin) cutting disk(you will need a few but they are cheap) proceed to cut through the cogs being carefull to not cut into the screw thread, or into the hub, and not in one go or it will get too hot and damage the finish. Experience and patience are important. use both hands on the grinder and use a 125mm grinder not a big stupid 230mm or something. I've done it twice now and it's a pain in the arse but it's nice to keep the hubs.
sounds like a good job for the dremel the cutting discs are so pricise n with the flexy shaft would be very easy
think dissasemble freewheel idea then re lace is the best option though
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Yip. Dremel for sure. Othwise, if you ask for a cutting disc suitable for stainless steel, you'll get a 1mm thick disc. They're lovely to use and cut very well indeed. Far better than a standard cutting disc ;)
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didn't think of the dremel and I have one of them and the bendy extention thing, must dig out hub
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WOAH, STOP!!!!!
A mountain bike cassette is completely different to a BMX freewheel. You just have to undo the cassette lockring away from the freehub body using a chainwhip to hold the CASSETTE and a lockring tool to undo THE LOCKRING.
My advice? take it to a bikeshop, they should have ot off in 5 mins and a decent chainwhip and lockring tool are a big cost for a one off job. Otherwise, clamp the non drive side axle into a vice (preferably using specific axle grips) just to give you a nice working platform. Then hold the cassette in one of the middle sporockets and simply hold in place while you undo the lockring. DO NOT CLAMP THE HUB BODY, YOU'LL PROBABLY SQUASH IT!
With a BMX hub, do as others have suggested, rebuild the non drive side to give you the leverage from the rim. HOWEVER as also rightly pointed out, the bullseye hubs are made of multiple pieces so you need to try and rebuild on the drive side if you can, if you can't get spokes through (although with a bullseye flange and a 16T freewheel, you should be able to rebuild the drive side. If not, as others suggested, destroy freewheel in vice and remove that way.
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Gossa,
I have a whip and removal tool and had already tried before taking to a local race bike shop (who are very good) but still no luck. I think the dremel is coming out this weekend!!
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Been watching this closely before having a go at me Bullseyes. I really dont wanna kill them in 25 mins after having survived 25years at me moms!
May have a go at the weekend..(Gulp!)
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practice on that grinder because they jump and don't get lazy and rush. TBH, you are probably better gripping the cogs in the vice and leaving the hub out of the way.
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Gossa,
I have a whip and removal tool and had already tried before taking to a local race bike shop (who are very good) but still no luck. I think the dremel is coming out this weekend!!
Frosty, why not clamp the cassette in the vice (mashing the cassette) and then undoing the lockring? Sounds like you've tried a lot of things though, some twat with gorilla forearms must have tightened that one!
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I can't think straight this morning, if I do that will the hub body still turn???