RADBMX.CO.UK
BMX General => BMX Chat => Topic started by: Glen on December 11, 2008, 08:00 PM
-
:rant: Why are they soooooo damn difficult to install? The spacers for their sprockets are always far too tight and requiring hammering. Maybe its just this particular one but its got a tiny shoulder on it which ive not seen before. Ive had about 5 profile sprockets and theyre not like that.
Their drivers are almost impossible to to intall or remove without hammering and special tools.
Their crank arms are the same.
The BBs are mad tight, you cant get the cups in or out of the frame without hammering and cant get bearings in or out of the cups without industrial strength bearing presses.
fkn irritating :idiot2: :rant:
Ive never had anywhere near as much hassle with ANY other brand.
-
i know what you mean about the tight bb fit but if its fitted correctly theyre spot on,
same with the cranks, theyre made to pretty tight tolerances but again, you get used to them,
i've never had a single problem taking my profile cassette apart for servicing, it all fits together like clockwork,
i do know what you mean though,
their cranks have always bee a bastard to fit, i broke a stanley vice once getting the cups in :LolLolLolLol:
-
frane bb size has alot to do with it too,
take standard bikes usa bb's,
you'd honestly think that the cups would never go in there!
tight as fook!
-
Oh you know you like it tight Joe :LolLolLolLol:
-
no offence but if your l.b.s cant service a profile cassette hub theyre fooking idiots :daumenhoch:
how did they fook the driver bearing? sounds like they crushed them with the thin outside retainer nut,
with the cups you need access to a vice, sanding the outside edge is right, you could do the inside of the frame bb too a little, to ease entry :LolLolLolLol:
2 blocks of wood to protect the cup/bearing and frame in a big vice, push the drive side all the way in , if the frames well made you should get decent alignment,
the second cup is the bitch, trying to push it in with the axle in place to maintain alignment is hard work, nevr found an easy way to do this, i work my way round the bearing/cup with the vice, then tap the inaccessable bits in with the old wood&hammer,
heres a set i put into a tight, tight standard frame,
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/g171/jarvicseven/IMG_8171.jpg)
it is do-able :daumenhoch:
tbh though i wouldnt trust those retro profiles for "actual" riding, ;)
-
Yeah, I bought a 46t Sprocket off Generallee (NOS) and the Top hat washer wouldn't fit!!
I used another 19mm Top hat and it fit a treat!!
I didn't fancy tw@tting the original top hat to get it in!! :(
Does everyone still leave the gap between the nondrive side BB cup and the BB (like it says to do in the manual) or does it always end up flush to the BB?
I did my last one and there wasn't much of a gap (if any).
I think it will be stuck for life!! :(
-
twatting
thought so, twat's not filtered moley :LolLolLolLol: you daft muggy c**t
-
I was playing it safe!! :-[
-
;D
-
Profile Evolution BB is/was the way forward for frames with US BB shells. But I'm glad that Mid and Euro BB shells are now the norm.
-
As far as I know, there is NO real size set for US BBs (the early beach cruisers that started using this size were made using a rolled folded tube for the BB). Every frame (and BB cup) is a slightly different Diameter cos no one really knows what to make it to.
Now with Mid/Spanish BBs, the shell is being made to suit a bearing that has very tight tolerances so its much easier to make a frame to fit it.
-
twat's a brilliant word...
i found that the best way to fit the cups was to carefully remove the paint from the inside of the BB shell. smooth as a cashmere codpiece after that....
-
I also think the 48 spline spindle is overkill in this day and age. Much prefer the less splined/less hassle approach of Redline and Shimano DXR cranks.
-
:) What happened to good old reaming and facing?
-
:) What happened to good old reaming and facing?
Not politically correct these days :LolLolLolLol: