RADBMX.CO.UK
Technical & Reference Section => Tech and Restoration => Topic started by: Swivel on November 07, 2009, 10:12 AM
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Guys, cups are in, drive side is on, bolts are on the non-drive side. Its just the arm fitment to finish it off. It doesn't seem to want to slide on to the axle completely and there's a fair gap between the arm and the bottom bracket. Do I give the arm a wack (worried about getting it off then?), or do I use the bolt and keep tightening that to ease the non-drive arm on to the axle.
Please let us know. I'm in haro building mode! :D
Matt :daumenhoch:
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matt if it gets stuck i have a proppa tool to drift crank arms off ............
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matt if it gets stuck i have a proppa tool to drift crank arms off ............
Ta mate, problem is you're the other side of the world lol :D
Anyone else know about fitting these cranks please? :-\
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:-\
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Ok just been told on another forum that you put the nut on and keep tightening it up and the arm eases its way on the axle towards the bb, but tried that and it is not budging. And I don't want to overtighten it and risk snapping off the bolt :-\ anyone else help? :(
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Some folks say not to grease the b/b axle tapers - I tend to lightly grease the axle and inside of the crank tapers then wipe it off before fitting. No problems with CTs in the past but I've used mtb bolted b/bs as opposed to oldschool nutted ones.
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whats the clearence like at the chain stay ? i ask because older cranks do look as though they're to far out at the bb, post up a picture
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Ok lads ta for the help, I will get the non drive side on and get a piccy up ;)
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Right lads, some pics! As you can see, the distance between the arm and the bottom bracket, and this is after i've put the main axle bolt in and really seriously tightened it, then i've taken the bolt out and taken a photo so you can see that the top of the axle isn't meeting the top part of the non-drive arm, unlike the other side. I bought this crank of Nick from Burnerworld recently and he had it fitted so I know its ok, well I think it is, just scared of overtightening and then fooking this up :-\ all I wanted to do today is build this damn 85' master! :tickedoff:
Thanks for your help chaps, Matt ;)
(http://www.swivel.org.uk/radbmx/sugino1.jpg)
(http://www.swivel.org.uk/radbmx/sugino2.jpg)
(http://www.swivel.org.uk/radbmx/sugino3.jpg)
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Matt - it never does with these cranks fella !
I have got around three bikes including the GT that I "race" on ! It's just the way they are matey :daumenhoch:
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Matt - it never does with these cranks fella !
I have got around three bikes including the GT that I "race" on ! It's just the way they are matey :daumenhoch:
So those gaps between the non-drive arm and bottom bracket is normal? Also the gap from inside the non-drive arm and the top of the axle, is that normal Nick? ???
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I have a gap yes between the non drive and the bb !
However NOT inside the arm and axle !
You may want to 'encourage' it on with a hammar and a block of wood !
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(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/g243/gashead69/GT/GTTinker004.jpg)
Hard to see in this pic, but deffo a cap !
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I have a gap yes between the non drive and the bb !
However NOT inside the arm and axle !
You may want to 'encourage' it on with a hammar and a block of wood !
Ah ha! right, that's what I thought, hammer might be too much but a block of wood yes. I think it may need a good wack to get it in a bit more. As you can see, there a few mm gap between the top of the axle and the inside of the arm. May take it out to the garage as little'un is kipping and give it a belt. Shame I can't find my rubber mallet anywhere :-\ thanks again, Matt :daumenhoch:
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The old GT cranks were the same - people used to fill the gap with extra washers !
These cranks have always looked a tad weird due to the gap - mine has always been fine Matt ! But yes I have needed to give it some welly to get it on :daumenhoch:
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Hi Matt yes thats how they look on them cranks you have done it right
i had a bb boot covering mine in my piccys of it fitted so cant show you
But all ok there :daumenhoch:
You could do the mallet thing if you want it further on i guess
Nick :)
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Matt, i agree with Nick. For some reason CT's always seem to have a bit of space between the washers and the crank arm although it should squeeze on as you tighten the bolt. Never grease square tapered axles, it tempts the arm to move slightly, and as soon as the interface is even minutely loose, its game over and they will always come loose after a period of time if ridden
Hope thats helpful :daumenhoch:
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They look fine to me, tbh I can't see what you are worrying about. I think I would be more worried if the arms went all the way on and were still loose ::).
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Right, went in the garage, place a nice piece of wood over the non-drive side and gave it many, I mean many wacks with a hammer. I have a club hammer and the fooker still hasn't squeezed in to reduce that gap >:( just don't know what else to do. By me tightening the bolt doesn't seem to make it reduce it neither. Just hope these ain't dud :-\
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Matt - as I and the others have said, I would leave it mate ! It's just the way the set up is meant to be :daumenhoch:
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Fook ok, must calm down now :LolLolLolLol: wish I would have put on a bb boot but will just have to get used to it as it is...
Thanks again lads ;)
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Matt, beleive me about 4 / 5 years ago I first used one of these cranks and threw my toys out the pram as I just couldn't get it to fit ! I had the axle out a dozen times and rven bought another one :LolLolLolLol:
Trust me - this is how they are :daumenhoch:
Now go and have a glider and chill out :daumenhoch:
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Are you expecting all of the exposed axle to be covered by the crank arm? If you are where do you think the other end will be? I'll tell you, hanging out the other side with a bolt on it that's tightened to the max and the crank arm will still be loose!
Chill out FFS!!! ;D
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Sounds like Marty needs a bucket of gliders too :LolLolLolLol:
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Are you expecting all of the exposed axle to be covered by the crank arm? If you are where do you think the other end will be? I'll tell you, hanging out the other side with a bolt on it that's tightened to the max and the crank arm will still be loose!
Chill out FFS!!! ;D
Calm down Mart :LolLolLolLol: we both need a beer :coolsmiley:
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Matt, as the others have already said, that looks spot on. If there was no gap between the axle end and outer edge of the crank taper (as in your last pic) I'd be worried - as it is, that's exactly how it's supposed to be. Still running ancient square tapers on my mtb (if it ain't broke, why fix it? :daumenhoch: )
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That's exactly how they should be.I've got a set,fitment wise,identical.If you look at a set of 400 flights,they fit with the gap,approx 1/2 inch.Is that the bike my old blue hinged clamp is going on?
Dave.
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That's exactly how they should be.I've got a set,fitment wise,identical.If you look at a set of 400 flights,they fit with the gap,approx 1/2 inch.Is that the bike my old blue hinged clamp is going on?
Dave.
Nice one Dave :daumenhoch:
Your old blue hinged jobber is going on my other 85 white rider which will be off to dan for powdering next week :D
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sends a pic when done,pweese.
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maat "the bike builder" strikes again :-X
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maat "the bike builder" strikes again :-X
:2gunsfiring_v1: Pete
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matt
you are a one man entertainment show, you gotta do a "live" bike build show at MK10
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:2funny: barsteward. Would need more than 2 days though Pete ;D I'll set up a week earlier and start building ;D
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I've used this tool on my cranks before to help them move abit.....much better than "A BIT OF WOOD"
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rubber-Assembly-Mallet-Hammer-for-shelving-racking_W0QQitemZ110254574020QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item19abaf49c4