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Technical & Reference Section => Tech and Restoration => Topic started by: BENDYCAT ELEVENTEEN on January 26, 2011, 02:49 PM
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Right he is the thread i said i would do to show you how i brought up the 82' goose - sorry for the lateness but laptop had to go and brake down on the hard drive and now is the only time I've had to sit down and do this write up
I don't clam to know every thing or the best way to sort out the best chrome - but i can show and share what i have found out that works for me so far
we all know chrome is a layer over metal and other things like plastic and it reflects the light making it seem very shinny, but over the years chrome can become dull with marks
It can get lines and dots/spots on it and so make it look dull - what we try to do it clean it up and soften it to make it look smooth again
lines - this is where some one may try to clean it with the wrong type of cloth - a Brillo pad will scratch chrome and leave hair line marks - the lines deflect the light and so dull it up - some can be light line and some can be heavy and close together - the more it has the worse the chrome is gonna look - some lines can be polished out and rubbed down so not to show to much
surface rust - this can be a pin pick in the chrome which starts to let water/damp in and the rust starts to grow and spread out - weaker/thinner chrome lets in more rust and where water hits the frame along with help of dirt and bits on the ground, start to put little holes in places and allows rust to start - bike left uncleaned after a ride can rust and a bike that is left like this for years can hit a bike bad with rust
chipped chrome - chrome can flack depending on how good it was put on - if it chips it can let in more damp and start rust on the unprotected metal - a re-chrome or paint may be the only way to go here
This is where you have to look at the bike all over to see what is on the bike or parts - after a clean and polish it may still look dull in places - you have to decide if you can live with it or will spend money on new chrome or paint - i myself don't mind a bike/parts that look like they have seen the years - some don't - it's up to you !
Right i have picked some forks here for this show
I had a look to see if there was any flaking of chrome and there was not - at this point you can't see if there are any lines in the chrome
Yes there is plenty of surface rust and i'm not sure if it goes deep
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17354.jpg)
as you can see they look rough and most would just chuck them to the side
Now you need to know what you need to clean them with
A oven or bathroom surface cleaner - this will help eat any grim that is on the forks and start to soften the rust - you can use soapy water as well
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17368.jpg)
i use some polishing cloth - i bought a wheel size roll of it for a fiver at a carboot - it works well as any bits /parts of dirt/rust get trapped inside and not on the face of the cloth while cleaning - it also last a bit longer that some clothes
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17365.jpg)
Now here is a great product - PEEK metal polish - way better than the more harsh auto sol which can do more damage i find - peek is a fine paste polish that you can use wet or dry - you can use it on a cloth - tooth brush - tooth pick - dremel mop
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17367.jpg)
and here is another secret to help you bring up the chrome
GODDARD'S long term silver polishing cloth
This i have found work very well on chrome and adds a shin that you can be proud of - in fact even if you don't want to clean chrome from the start but just want to give you bike a shine, try it and have it in your cleaning parts bin - Robert dyas sell them
Don't use it on decals as it will dull them and always test on some thing/place that won't be seen so much
Do use it on chrome like a duster and wipe after with a clean duster
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17364.jpg)
a clean duster for after all the work is done
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17366.jpg)
Right that is what you need and now how you need to do it
use gloves here
Spray the oven / bathroom cleaner on the forks and leave for five minutes - now at this point i shouldn't have to tell you to do this out side and away from kids / pets / the wife
now rubbing in and then wipe off oven cleaner and wash with soapy water,
this will get a lot of grime off and show where the rust spots are
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17369.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17370.jpg)
looks bad but know the time taking work starts - get a razor and wet the forks and you start to softly glide the razor over a rust spot - it will take the top rust off and leave a pin hole spot - do the whole forks but like a inch at a time - it you press to hard then it may lift up any bigger spot of flaking and muck it all up - softly will do the job and not leave lines any where
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17372.jpg)
you have to work in the gaps and where the welds are - but the razor should get most of it up - it will take a bit of time but this bit is where it will make a difference
now that the razor bit is done it's a wipe off with a wet cloth and ready for PEEK
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17373.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17374.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17375.jpg)
now you can see the dullness and some lines - get a cloth and put a couple of pea size dollops and start to rub in straight lines along the forks - it will wear you down and hurt you fingers, but no pain no gain they say - do the whole forks and the welds and any bits that are hard to reach use a tooth brush or a tooth pick (works well in the welds and weep holes )
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17376.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17377.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17378.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17379.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17380.jpg)
now that the peek has been used with a dry cloth, you can also get a wet cloth (a kitchen jay-cloth works well) and put some more peek on to it - rub in the cloth face and then work over the forks - this is like when you wet sand things - the water acts as a softener and a smooth finish will show - do this for a while as to flatten down the chrome and bring back the shine with taken of the dull lines and rust spots
wash off any peek left and dry - you can leave it in the airing cupboard over night - once dry you will need to get the Goddard's cloth and start rubbing up and down the forks - a good idea is to have another cloth/duster in the other hand so not to leave any grease marks from your hands - work the cloth over the chrome for a while
once you are happy with the Goddards cloth then you can use a clean duster to shine it all up
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17431.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17389.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17390.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17392.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17393.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17398.jpg)
as you can see in different light it will show some of the rust spot pin holes and line - in different light it will hide them as the polishing with peek and the Goddard's cloth have help bring the shine back
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17413.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17414.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17408.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17410.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17402.jpg)
So as you can see with a bit of know how and lots of hard work you can bring back most of the chrome - i'm not saying that it will work on all chrome and depending on how far the rust has taken - it is also up to your self to do the hard work - the more you put in the more you get out
key points
use protection - glove / glasses / cold water near by
use a good chrome cleaner - see what the super market has to offer on oven /bathroom cleaners
use a good razor and keep working at it - the better it's done here the better it will look later on
use elbow grease to rub hard and bring up the chrome with peek
some with the Goddard's cloth - rub and rub and it will shine
they say hard work shows the fakes from the pros - this is not for every body and some will just send them to be re chromed - or they might not like the look of a part with a bit of years showing - me i like to see parts brought back to life and used,so who cares if it has some black marks on it or a couple of deep scratches or marks ~ at least peeps will know you had a go
from this
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17420.jpg)
to this
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17423.jpg)
and as you can see i have not replaced the forks with a better set - this is how i got the mongoose cooked and brought it back to life - now go and have a try
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/Alloy%20wheels/SNC17384.jpg)
hope this helps and if you have any more information or you own findings on if it worked for you by doing it this way - please do
cheers B :daumenhoch:
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/GOOSE%20TRICKSTAR%201982/goose82.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/tt183/ELEVENTEENBENDYCAT/GOOSE%20TRICKSTAR%201982/SNC17352.jpg)
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:D wow thats amazing. was gona get my mrd powdered white but after seeing dont know weather to polish up the chrome :-\ dilema dilema . Goose looks the biz :daumenhoch:
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top tips there :daumenhoch:
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jesus mary and joseph,thats amazing work :shocked: :4_17_5:
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SOD THAT....... I'm off to the Chromers ;D
Really though, great stuff, thanks for sharing
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Top work B.... :daumenhoch:
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Well done Mr B, I think this deserves a sticky! :daumenhoch:
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Well done mate great job :smitten:
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cheers for that bendy :daumenhoch:
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makes me want to go and polish something :D great work mate :4_17_5:
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Nice work B :daumenhoch: my fingers feel sore just reading that ::)
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top stuff Bendythumbs :4_17_5:
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great job.... :4_17_5:
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my arm started aching just at the thought of it,
nice work though and great thread :daumenhoch:
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Great thread :4_17_5:
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Well done, awesome resto work! :4_17_5:
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Impressive that Bendy :daumenhoch:
Nice work 8)
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right - better get some peek then methinks :daumenhoch:
must have read this thread a dozen times now, nice one B
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Andy, will this work on a nickel plated earlier 'Goose do you think bud, as my '79 Supergoose forks have seen better days - I was wondering if it might be too harsh on something that's not chromed ???
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/aa149/Spen69/IMG_3687.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/aa149/Spen69/IMG_3688.jpg)
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Read this thread about a dozen times on different forums now and I am more amazed each time I read it, Bendy u is da chief :4_17_5:,
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:daumenhoch:
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top stuff mate :4_17_5:
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right laptop out of action and will be £220 lighter when it comes back >:(
peek is a very light polish with hardly any grains in it - put it between your fingers and it feels very smooth
autosol has a bit more grain in it and feels a bit more harsh and grainy in you fingers
you need to polish the metal down to a mirror finish and this can be done with peek and a Goddards cloth (sainsburys see em cheap )
but like with all things try it in a place where it will not show - under the bottom of the head tube
I have not tried it on a nickel plate - so don't rub to hard - you are tring to polish it smooth and not away - you can use a damp/light wet Jay cloth with the peek rubbed in to it first to aid the friction
show some pic's of before and after and i hope itworks well
cheers B ;)
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Tremendous work ;) such patience ::)
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Spen read an article on the net saying you can clean tarnished nickel with oven cleaner , again the spray stuff type ::) not Oven pride >:D
or a vinegar and water solution then buff up with this stuff
http://www.theoldbicycleshowroom.co.uk/weldtite-chrome--nickel-polish-75g-tube-80-p.asp
(http://www.theoldbicycleshowroom.co.uk/ekmps/shops/theoldbicycle/images/weldtite-chrome-nickel-polish-75g-tube.-80-p.jpg)
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Cheers Chris, I'm get myself some chemical assistance and have a crack at these bad boys then (and I don't mean the chemical assistance Frank Gallagher gets with a pint at the Jockey either!)
Sounds like I need a couple of buckets of patience too ;-D
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went to sainsbury and got some dishcloths but no dr beckmanns there
so have a choice of mr muscle & lidl oven cleaner or cillit bang for stage 1
might try a selection and see what shifts the crud off my latest project best
gonna look for some peek later too :daumenhoch:
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cruddy frame has been outside for best part of an hour covered in oven cleaning foam - gonna pop outside in a minute and rinse it off
fingers crossed some of the muck has shifted...
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I used one of these instead of the Stanley blade
(http://i1266.photobucket.com/albums/jj527/gttour2/Clipboard011.jpg)
The different shape and size blades allow you reach some places easier than the Stanley
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don't forget that a oven cleaner is surposed not to harm chrome and metals - so should leave the frame good - any holes of rust may allow the chemical to get under the chrome - so be carefull and don't leave it too long
certain cleaners just do one type of job - desolving grease - braking down deposits - softning plastics - scrating surfaces to brake up some thing stuck on
always try it on some thing you don't mind destroying if it's not right for the job
and never dig too hard against some thing if it is not ready to come away - and when using a razor/ stanley blade ~ go easy - they can cut fingers like a hot knife through butter ???
also just reading this back a little - spen the peek will bring it up again
but you have to remember - the hard and more you polish the morte it will shine - so if you only want it up a little ~ don't press too hard and use a soft wet/damp cloth to ease it over the frame/forks
you could breing it up to a mirror/chrome look with hard work - car polishing cloth and time and elbow grease
hope this helps all
cheers B ;)
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Great Work. Got a few bits that need sorting. Need to get crackin'. :daumenhoch:
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Excellent work mate, at the end of the day if you do want the high polish finish you can't beat elbow grease and plenty of patience!
I never used knife blades to cut the worst parts before, may try that. In all honesty I did use Brillo/Soap pads to cut the worst off and then fine grade wire wool with Autosol for bad chrome. Worked a treat on a '78 Daimler Rad Grille.
The silvercloth makes perfect sense too, I never used that. Will defo give that a go for the final very fine polishing. Cheers for the tips> :daumenhoch:
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If you buy a thing of super fine wire wool and a big thing of wd40 you will get the job done quick and well, finish off with a proper rub and buff with brasso and it will gleam like a gleaming thing.
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brasso is too harsh and can dull more than it shines on chrome ;)
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nice work bendy :daumenhoch: .
what do you reckon my chances are of makeing this shine again
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/rattty68/007-7.jpg)
its the centurion that i got off evil bay the frame was chrome but has been sanded down and painted blue .i stripped off the paint but the sander marks are quite deep
and it looks like the chrome has been polished through in places
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/rattty68/009-7.jpg)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/rattty68/010-3.jpg)
its a pitty they painted it as the frame is in great conditon no rust or pitting at all
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee414/rattty68/KGrHqJHJDgE9dcbeShBPg01wVQ60_12.jpg)
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Good thread and nice work, but you missed a bit ;)
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you can polish most stuff, but have to remember !
Sanded chrome - some marks can be too deep to polish out and so will always show - the more the lighter lines get buffed out, the deeper one's will show up more - light reflects off the chrome and the more you polish, the more it looks like mirror - the trouble is deep lines throw light out at a different angle - so to get down and flatten a line out, you are taking away the layer of chrome and may remove it in places !
So you have to work out if you can live with certain lines and just accept that it has history and been used
light marks can be taken out / buffed up flat - but it looks as your has been keyed for paint to stick - you may give it a try and see what comes up and how it looks - it will take time and elbow grease
But you may think about a re-chrome or more paint if it doesn't come how you would like :'(
hope this helps a bit - other may have a different view on what can be done - so best to get all the info you need to get near the right answer, before starting work on it ;)
cheers B ;)
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Cheers for that bendy :daumenhoch:.
it was keyed for paint but it didnt work. i had the paint chipped of in about half an hour . i wll give polishing it a go and if it doesnt work then it will be painted .
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Thanks for sharing that, :coolsmiley:
Great work, i will have to try that on a pair of survivor Torker Pro T Bars i have got.
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brasso is too harsh and can dull more than it shines on chrome ;)
complete and utter bollocks
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brasso is too harsh and can dull more than it shines on chrome ;)
complete and utter bollocks
:LolLolLolLol: :LolLolLolLol: :LolLolLolLol:
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well let other try it and see :crazy2: ;D