RADBMX.CO.UK
Mid School BMX (>87) 1989 to 2003 (<05) => Mid School ( Keep the faith ) => Topic started by: AceFto on March 02, 2017, 03:04 PM
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Hi Guys My Name is Ace (Abid)
Grew up in cricklewood then moved to Wembley in early 2000
back in the day mid 90's had a good few BMX's
my favourite one was a Freestyler in chrome with build in stunt pegs on the front forks
and on the rear lower frame, along with black mags and gold brakes omg those were the days I use to ride everywhere and be out till late lol now I'm going to be 35 this year
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/ABA97144-CE8F-4B7F-9885-4D81272B4240_zpskzlsr7yi.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/ABA97144-CE8F-4B7F-9885-4D81272B4240_zpskzlsr7yi.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/3E2794DA-D7F1-484B-BDC2-F2BC9F6CC71D_zpsc0vejmnt.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/3E2794DA-D7F1-484B-BDC2-F2BC9F6CC71D_zpsc0vejmnt.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/1321_zpsyg9edwes.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/1321_zpsyg9edwes.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/fork22_zpscvfmynsa.jpeg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/fork22_zpscvfmynsa.jpeg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/crank_zpsbitwdqnq.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/crank_zpsbitwdqnq.jpg.html)
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/fordcortina2008032/disk_zpsju4yeni2.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/fordcortina2008032/disk_zpsju4yeni2.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/seatbase_zpsyfec7wpk.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/seatbase_zpsyfec7wpk.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/gold%20brakes_zpsk6ih1n1s.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/gold%20brakes_zpsk6ih1n1s.jpg.html)
this bike frame has a brake which needs to be fitted at the bottom of it and is that some kind of a special brake i'm looking for would prefer it in gold if possible before I order those shiny gold levers
thanks chaps
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I don't think that seat clamp will fit fella. It says 25.4, which is the post size of your bike, not the overall frame size.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150mm-6inch-LCD-Digital-Vernier-Caliper-Electronic-Gauge-Micrometer-Measurement-/222410321533?hash=item33c8b02e7d:g:j7YAAOSwtfhYpBaY
I suggest one of those before you buy anything else. I've forgotten the clamp size you need...
OK mine is 28.6mm. Yours may possibly be the same, but get yourself a pair of those calipers any way. They're incredibly useful :)
And hey, don't buy anything else until you run it past us. I should have taken my own advice, that's why I ended up buying three bloody headsets :D
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the rear brake is a "u" brake. make sure you use a lever that suits the type of brake you are using.
if you use a caliper brake on the front, it needs a standard (short) pull lever , the u brake needs a long pull lever, same as a v brake.
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the rear brake is a "u" brake. make sure you use a lever that suits the type of brake you are using.
if you use a caliper brake on the front, it needs a standard (short) pull lever , the u brake needs a long pull lever, same as a v brake.
Yup. Thankfully I have sent him a reasonable tasteful set of black levers he can use.
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I don't think that seat clamp will fit fella. It says 25.4, which is the post size of your bike, not the overall frame size.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/150mm-6inch-LCD-Digital-Vernier-Caliper-Electronic-Gauge-Micrometer-Measurement-/222410321533?hash=item33c8b02e7d:g:j7YAAOSwtfhYpBaY
I suggest one of those before you buy anything else. I've forgotten the clamp size you need...
OK mine is 28.6mm. Yours may possibly be the same, but get yourself a pair of those calipers any way. They're incredibly useful :)
And hey, don't buy anything else until you run it past us. I should have taken my own advice, that's why I ended up buying three bloody headsets :D
damn lucky I didn't buy those levers lesson learnt :daumenhoch:
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the rear brake is a "u" brake. make sure you use a lever that suits the type of brake you are using.
if you use a caliper brake on the front, it needs a standard (short) pull lever , the u brake needs a long pull lever, same as a v brake.
ah now I understand its the modern looking brakes like these ?
thank you for that
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Complete-Mountain-BMX-bicycle-Brake-Levers-V-brakes-Cables-front-rear-/261863137484?hash=item3cf84260cc:g:UGwAAOSwcL5XMaNf
old skool brakes out the window lol
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the rear brake is a "u" brake. make sure you use a lever that suits the type of brake you are using.
if you use a caliper brake on the front, it needs a standard (short) pull lever , the u brake needs a long pull lever, same as a v brake.
ah now I understand its the modern looking brakes like these ?
thank you for that
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Complete-Mountain-BMX-bicycle-Brake-Levers-V-brakes-Cables-front-rear-/261863137484?hash=item3cf84260cc:g:UGwAAOSwcL5XMaNf
old skool brakes out the window lol
no, they are v brakes. you need a u brake. as you will be running a caliper brake on the front, as the forks have no u brake lugs, you will need different levers for each style of brake. you will need a short pull for the caliper brake and a long pull for the u brake.
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I'm so blind lol thanks again
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Coyote-BMX-U-Brake-Calliper-239g-with-Kit-Anodized-RRP-19-99-/201605642026?var=500829974680&hash=item2ef0a1f72a:g:jyQAAOSwM4xXY4Vd
There you go dude, one gold U brake with all the fittings.
V brake lugs are thinner and usually come on race bikes. They would snap if you did flatland with them for example. If you don't want a front brake don't bother. If you do?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dia-Compe-Bulldog-Rear-Brake-Oldschool-BMX-Mid-School-Burner-Mongoose-/222422247973?var=&hash=item33c9662a25:m:m17GDNZhvo5kTAFodv1_lkg
Would do it :)
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Hi Andrew thanks for the bits mate received on weekend :)
seat clamp is 28.5mm I ordered the wrong one lol
and thank you for the link ordered the MultiMeter
should have the crank set and the headset fitted by the end of this week
been offered wheels for the bike but the thread nut is 15mm ??
would some nice big stunt pegs fit 15mm nut as all my bmx's back in the day had 14mm nuts
thanks
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Hmm. I think if the nut is 15mm then the wheels are usually 10mm axles. When you get your vernier caliper you can measure your dropouts, but I think they are 10mm. They were on mine (same frame) but mine did not have 990 brake lugs so was an earlier model.
I think if the axle is 14mm then the nut is usually 17mm. Bikes all went to 14mm during the mid school with deep lip 48s but it seems that 10mm and 36 hole wheels are coming back now. I guess with hardly any one using pegs these days you don't need 14mm, and these new school guys seem to be obsessed with having the lightest bike possible.
With the vernier you use one side to measure the outer size and the other side to measure internal stuff, but you could slap a tape measure over the dropouts and get a reasonably good idea.
No worries on the parts man. Glad they will see some use :)
Oh and annoyingly I actually have a black seat clamp that came on the Quadangle I have restored, could have sent that too. They're not expensive though, very popular size. I bought a Hope racing (made in UK) which was about £12 IIRC but that's like top drawer.
Looking forward to more pics :)
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Is that one of the Cyclesport-made Standard style frames that got given away at MK a couple of years back?
:daumenhoch:
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Is that one of the Cyclesport-made Standard style frames that got given away at MK a couple of years back?
:daumenhoch:
Are they still in business? I could swear that's who I bought mine from in around 1998.
I don't think his frame is recent. The seller who sold it to him has a load of stuff, all from 96-99. Like specific SE parts for example.
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Think it's a heavy tools and not a pro-lite
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Think it's a heavy tools and not a pro-lite
Yeah that is what the seller had it listed as :)
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Is that one of the Cyclesport-made Standard style frames that got given away at MK a couple of years back?
:daumenhoch:
Are they still in business? I could swear that's who I bought mine from in around 1998.
I don't think his frame is recent. The seller who sold it to him has a load of stuff, all from 96-99. Like specific SE parts for example.
They were in business as BMX City but the warehouse is gone and they have close down now ... they are the reason that every Facebook Mid school page is full of Sun rims for sale :)
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This is the frame I got ... looks the same to me ... and as Olly says, a lot like a Heavy Tools Screamer :-)
This frame would really suit some mid 90s parts ... please don't use those bars! :-)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=183166.0;attach=18360;image;ts=1436726812)
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Mid 90s = chunky :-)
http://bmxmuseum.com/bikes/heavy_tools/69250
[attachment=1]
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Hi Guys sorry for a late reply just been busy with work
ordered a new seat clamp last night after measuring it correctly lol
and a new old stock chrome seat post
this evening hopefully will have headset forks handlebar on
the rear brake arrived yesterday so hopefully not long now
the seller always has another frame up for sale every time one sells he has sold 3 since I've purchased mine
must say he is very helpful
will upload more pics tomorrow
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Hi Guys
this is how it is from last night
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/C8D37EF4-90FE-4495-AFD3-7744C70FC230_zps5tkdnxrz.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/C8D37EF4-90FE-4495-AFD3-7744C70FC230_zps5tkdnxrz.jpg.html)
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/0B96D5EC-0852-44C2-88D6-E0F26FC2904D_zpssx9dr86s.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/0B96D5EC-0852-44C2-88D6-E0F26FC2904D_zpssx9dr86s.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/7A6CCC50-3302-43C7-9554-A73B0B1ABBC6_zpswwc5cnos.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/7A6CCC50-3302-43C7-9554-A73B0B1ABBC6_zpswwc5cnos.jpg.html)
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/12BD15F5-1E39-45D5-A4A0-87CC626B6CCC_zpskyibt4e6.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/12BD15F5-1E39-45D5-A4A0-87CC626B6CCC_zpskyibt4e6.jpg.html)
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/19B9950D-EAA7-4A9C-916D-1D30B1D22662_zpsbinsvkvz.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/19B9950D-EAA7-4A9C-916D-1D30B1D22662_zpsbinsvkvz.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/A7330F8A-10D3-47DD-8F6F-8BF83F253FF2_zpsqlq1cakm.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/A7330F8A-10D3-47DD-8F6F-8BF83F253FF2_zpsqlq1cakm.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/2DE8BF28-9491-4162-8908-0F9FF5B40E2C_zps5tndy3bv.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/2DE8BF28-9491-4162-8908-0F9FF5B40E2C_zps5tndy3bv.jpg.html)
still waiting for seat post to arrive, black seat going on.
Awaiting for odyssey sprocket as I messaged a seller on ebay and he did not reply at all hence why I purchased another one which has not arrived yet. Picked up a nice gold chain from halfords they gave me a hand to put the bearings and crank in the young lad was so chuffed he couldn't wait to work on the bike.
I have a slight problem if you look at the headset I have a big gap as the lock nut has a lip which wont allow the nut to screw down fully I also need a spacer for it any pointers will be great.
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/D8CA414A-7853-4AD3-8279-D8A67A7B1EFE_zps8fsagx4b.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/D8CA414A-7853-4AD3-8279-D8A67A7B1EFE_zps8fsagx4b.jpg.html)
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/6726D134-0C23-4786-AF50-5F356FD9DC12_zpsvusxodo6.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/6726D134-0C23-4786-AF50-5F356FD9DC12_zpsvusxodo6.jpg.html)
can't believe it finally coming along together
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Hmm might need cutting down.
Looking good though man :)
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Let me have a look in my box of crap as i think I have a deep top-nut and a higher top race with a few washers that might take that spare length of thread up for you.
If that fails I wouldn't cut the threads as a first choice, but if you do, make sure you screw the top race on right to the bottom of the threads out the way before you cut. Then file the burs off the threaded area you'very cut before slowly winding the top race back off again to clear the threads up as best you can, or you may never get the threads aligned enough to rebuild it.
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Please get rid of those bars ... I know all the 'build what you want' crap .. but this is the Mid School section so please ... put some mid school bars on it ... they are mid 80s bars on a mid 90s bike.
for £20 .. these would look 100000000 times better
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMX-MONKEY-BAR-TYPE-FREESTYLER-HANDLEBAR-SUIT-MODERN-OR-OLD-SCHOOL-BMX-/182469888085?hash=item2a7c0d8855:m:m-Mzg0W_e163Hmk2AUrd55A
even these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMX-PRETZEL-TYPE-HANDLEBARS-IDEAL-DYNO-GTS-OLD-SCHOOL-FREESTYLE-BMX-BIKES-/391704675038?hash=item5b336b02de:g:G9kAAOxy63FTAdQv
:)
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Hmm might need cutting down.
Looking good though man :)
Thanks Man :)
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Let me have a look in my box of crap as i think I have a deep top-nut and a higher top race with a few washers that might take that spare length of thread up for you.
If that fails I wouldn't cut the threads as a first choice, but if you do, make sure you screw the top race on right to the bottom of the threads out the way before you cut. Then file the burs off the threaded area you'very cut before slowly winding the top race back off again to clear the threads up as best you can, or you may never get the threads aligned enough to rebuild it.
that would be great Spen would save me messing about with it and thats good info :daumenhoch:
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Yeah I have to say I agree. Those CW bars don't look good.
Try and get higher rise bars if you are tall. I'm 5'10 so I go with 8.75.
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Please get rid of those bars ... I know all the 'build what you want' crap .. but this is the Mid School section so please ... put some mid school bars on it ... they are mid 80s bars on a mid 90s bike.
for £20 .. these would look 100000000 times better
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMX-MONKEY-BAR-TYPE-FREESTYLER-HANDLEBAR-SUIT-MODERN-OR-OLD-SCHOOL-BMX-/182469888085?hash=item2a7c0d8855:m:m-Mzg0W_e163Hmk2AUrd55A
even these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMX-PRETZEL-TYPE-HANDLEBARS-IDEAL-DYNO-GTS-OLD-SCHOOL-FREESTYLE-BMX-BIKES-/391704675038?hash=item5b336b02de:g:G9kAAOxy63FTAdQv
:)
Hi Ed will defo replace them once the bike is all up and running I did not know what type of bars they were came as a package
but I do like the ones in the first link cheers fella
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wicked :-) I'll stop moaning now ;D
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Yeah those first ones look like Redline :)
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Yeah I have to say I agree. Those CW bars don't look good.
Try and get higher rise bars if you are tall. I'm 5'10 so I go with 8.75.
Hi Andrew I would like to get gold stickers made for the bike :D
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Yeah I have to say I agree. Those CW bars don't look good.
Try and get higher rise bars if you are tall. I'm 5'10 so I go with 8.75.
Hi Andrew I would like to get gold stickers made for the bike :D
I've been looking into it but as of yet I have not been able to find good enough graphics. Which means I would need to draw it, which could take many hours. I'm pretty sure I could cut gold vinyl though. I'm also pretty sure you can get it in flat gold or like shiny (which would look terrible).
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No worries Andrew when ever you get a chance
I've done a bit more on it
washed the wheels in the bath lol, changed the sprocket,
for the life of me I could not split the chain I was going mad at 2am
even with the tool I'm going to take a trip to halfords after work
need to fit the tyres you sent me
also regarding front brake can I use your the lever u sent me to keep them the same or do i have to buy a separate one to match the front brake currently have not purchased a front brake,
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/F728D936-A48B-40D1-9C4A-523009D3E002_zpszphoawml.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/F728D936-A48B-40D1-9C4A-523009D3E002_zpszphoawml.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/33E1346B-753B-4F3A-B22E-4A8280D5B38E_zpsskyayidv.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/33E1346B-753B-4F3A-B22E-4A8280D5B38E_zpsskyayidv.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/EA2DD15C-9615-44D2-A7B2-148B80EA056C_zps0vxrwjve.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/EA2DD15C-9615-44D2-A7B2-148B80EA056C_zps0vxrwjve.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/E68611B4-7463-41A9-9437-FF222F5C4FD7_zps59oe9dx9.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/E68611B4-7463-41A9-9437-FF222F5C4FD7_zps59oe9dx9.jpg.html)
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Looking good man. I like the chain ring. Really thought I wouldn't but it looks nice against the black arms :)
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Hi guys a have a problem the tool wont push the link in and I don't know what to do
i've been pulling my hair out trying
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/F3108561-8D70-426F-8FB5-520D3D57C6E2_zpsrimndfvy.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/F3108561-8D70-426F-8FB5-520D3D57C6E2_zpsrimndfvy.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/8DD0C524-EA40-4611-A4D3-2260530BE17B_zpsjc9bu4je.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/8DD0C524-EA40-4611-A4D3-2260530BE17B_zpsjc9bu4je.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/F7CE401E-4E18-49D5-A6E9-1AEAAFF66980_zpseb2z9ynv.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/F7CE401E-4E18-49D5-A6E9-1AEAAFF66980_zpseb2z9ynv.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/BA2B5048-68FE-43ED-86F8-C812D5259E50_zpsmxr2beei.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/BA2B5048-68FE-43ED-86F8-C812D5259E50_zpsmxr2beei.jpg.html)
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Wind the tool right out, turn it round on the chain so the pin is inside the tool and move the chain over to the next notch and it will wind it back in for you.
When you get it in far enough, go a turn further then turn the chain round and undo the tool one turn. It will free the chain up so it doesn't kink.
I'm back home later so will see if I can sort the top nut and washers out for you :coolsmiley:
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Wind the tool right out, turn it round on the chain so the pin is inside the tool and move the chain over to the next notch and it will wind it back in for you.
When you get it in far enough, go a turn further then turn the chain round and undo the tool one turn. It will free the chain up so it doesn't kink.
I'm back home later so will see if I can sort the top nut and washers out for you :coolsmiley:
thanks I will give it another go tonight :daumenhoch:
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make sure the holes are lined up before pushing the pin through , half link chains are prone to cracking around the pin hole as you push it back through
you need the tool like this to push the pin back in
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/ff98/jimjdld/bmx/3_zpshcbdlvlm.jpg)
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...or mole grips to get it most of the way in ... then chain splitter to finish it off :)
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took the bike to halfords last night and they couldn't push the pin in I couldn't believe it he tried and damaged 2 tools
they ended up putting a standard chain for me and gave me another replacement gold chain I think they did not have a proper tool for the half link chain
I was so gutted at least it has a chain on now
you guys are not going to believe this for the life of me I could not get the back brake to work
thats the only thing stopping me riding the bike, oh and the fork lock nut
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/7B6C3474-7B3D-4D01-9BA1-B93AAD81E507_zpscutbb2mb.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/7B6C3474-7B3D-4D01-9BA1-B93AAD81E507_zpscutbb2mb.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/F1AB468F-ABCD-4C31-A1F9-44A133DC8748_zpswizfedjt.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/F1AB468F-ABCD-4C31-A1F9-44A133DC8748_zpswizfedjt.jpg.html)
excuse the brake pad missing I know that lol but the caliper on the brakes is not working I'm not use to a U brake searched on youtube but still no joy
cheers guys
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With the U brake, as quickly and easily as I can explain it. OK, there is a spring pre loaded into each "arm". So what you need to do is put an allen key in the bolt in the middle, then put a spanner over the body around it (you will see it is shaped to take a spanner). You tension up the spring with the spanner (so that the brake springs away from the wheel) then do up the middle bolt which locks it all into place and keeps the arms under tension.
And that's it really. Repeat on each side..
Glad you got your chain sorted. TBH I have never seen one like the one you were trying to get on. I had chain problems too, the tools are crap ! basically. Ended up having to make my own tool.
The bike looks really nice, but those bars look pretty tragic man.
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cheers Andrew I will give it another go mate nice one thanks to you the bike is looking like how it is
cant decide on these 2 links mate both are nice what do you suggest
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162274140706?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/182469888085?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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The 4 piece bars would be much more in keeping with the frame IMO
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Man o man sling them bars/stem in the bin!
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WETHEPEOPLE-BMX-HANDLEBARS-SALT-TOP-LOAD-STEM-BRAKE-LEVER-GRIPS-NEW-/272512471910?hash=item3f73025366:g:Ll0AAOSwEzxYb7SM
Would be my choice. I know they are new school but two piece ain't changed much and that's a cracking bargain.
If you want chrome avoid anything Diamondback. They have become the company who have all of their stuff made in China, poorly.
Remember, if you have grown you are going to need a decent rise on the bars. So I would aim for at least 8" (innuendos go here :D )
I have 8.75 rise on mine and it's just about enough for me being 5'10. I had some WTP Mad Max on my bike that got stolen (8.75) and they weighed hardly anything.
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WETHEPEOPLE-BMX-HANDLEBARS-SALT-TOP-LOAD-STEM-BRAKE-LEVER-GRIPS-NEW-/272512471910?hash=item3f73025366:g:Ll0AAOSwEzxYb7SM
Would be my choice. I know they are new school
They are indeed new school
Plus the stem that comes with them won't fit his forks
Basically they are all wrong
I'm not one for publicly slating someone's bike (your bike your rules etc) but i wouldn't actively recommend putting the wrong bits on a bike if someone's on here looking for advice
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WETHEPEOPLE-BMX-HANDLEBARS-SALT-TOP-LOAD-STEM-BRAKE-LEVER-GRIPS-NEW-/272512471910?hash=item3f73025366:g:Ll0AAOSwEzxYb7SM
Would be my choice. I know they are new school
They are indeed new school
Plus the stem that comes with them won't fit his forks
Basically they are all wrong
I'm not one for publicly slating someone's bike (your bike your rules etc) but i wouldn't actively recommend putting the wrong bits on a bike if someone's on here looking for advice
Well I guess I just differ in the way I look at it. At the end of the day parts/years etc don't really do much for me. I don't have an emotional attachment to many things, and BMX parts and so on are just one of them.
I put brand new Snafus on my bike and I am glad I did. They are super strong and weigh nothing and just look like 2pc bars.
As I mentioned before, 2pc bars have remained the same for years and years. I would always pick a quality, lighter part over something heavy "just because".
I'm also not a big fan of chrome, but again it's all down to preference. Absolutely nobody is right or wrong, it all just comes down to personal choice.
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I was just expressing an opinion
Not knocking you for putting whatever you want on your own bike and yes if he wants to fit new school bars in an old school stem on a midschool frame that's up to him. But chrome midschool bars would not only suit a chrome frame, they'd also be more in keeping if you're at all bothered about stuff matching.
However subjective each of our own opinions may be, there's no denying that stem that comes with the bars would be as useful as tits on a fish :teef:
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True, but the bars and lever are miles better than what he has now :)
I wish more people did build logs like this. Did they used to before Facebook killed the forums star?
From '02 to '14 I was totally out of the game.
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True, but the bars and lever are miles better than what he has now :)
I wish more people did build logs like this. Did they used to before Facebook killed the forums star?
From '02 to '14 I was totally out of the game.
'Better' is just as subjective as right or wrong. Maybe they are lighter, stronger or superior in performance but it depends on why you're building the bike as to what's best for you. Otherwise no one would build a bike with tech 2s
I try not to make negative remarks about the bikes people have already built (better to say nothing) so as much as I personally dislike CW bars I wouldn't have described them as 'tragic' like you did - I thought you said there was no right or wrong?.
In fact I find your advice confusing & contradictory, you tell the guy to go and buy a diamond back crank, but later in the same thread advise against buying diamond back parts?
Anyway I was just giving an opinion which the OP can choose to ignore if he wants
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMX-MONKEY-BAR-TYPE-FREESTYLER-HANDLEBAR-SUIT-MODERN-OR-OLD-SCHOOL-BMX-/182469888085?hash=item2a7c0d8855:m:m-Mzg0W_e163Hmk2AUrd55A
:daumenhoch: :daumenhoch: :daumenhoch: :daumenhoch: :daumenhoch: :daumenhoch: :daumenhoch: :daumenhoch: :daumenhoch: :daumenhoch:
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Evening.... had a rummage through my spares box and found a possible fix to your headset problem. PM me your address and i'll post them out to you :daumenhoch:
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Not only are half link chains new school but worse still as said above they are a pain in the dick to work with, a better alternative would be one of these.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KMC-Z510hx-RUST-FREE-singlespeed-HUB-GEAR-Bicycle-Chain-1-8-/190472554016?hash=item2c590c8620:m:mDDG2Pqgama1IpTrVRuThVA
I agree 4pc bars are the way to go on this I've PMed you about a cheap set.
Looks like you are going to need a different stem also, maybe something like this, you could strip it and give it a polish.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Zoom-Bike-Bicycle-BMX-Alloy-Quill-Stem-22-2mm-Fit-4-Bolt-36mm-Length-HB151-/271762724075?hash=item3f465214eb:g:pmoAAOSwBahUz6iU
Don't cut your forks go with Spens fix for your headset problem.
You can learn to do a lot of things on Youtube
How to set up a u brake
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The bike in this video is similar to yours and has a caliper brake on the front like yours should have, look for a Dia Compe Bulldog and do a potts mod (cable is routed up through the fork and out of the hole in the stem)
/>
Dia Compe Bulldog
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dia-compe-Bulldog-front-brake-caliper-/162418545388?hash=item25d0e652ec:g:p3IAAOSwax5YuueQ
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Hi Spen I'l Pm you in a bit
Hi rodriguez thank you very much for that I cant access internet on my mobile phone as i've forgotten my password for this site lol
and can only access it on my work pc,
but last night I purchased these handlebars don't shoot me
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112281074753?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=412697445239&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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...
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...
Everything will fall into place Griff! :2funny:
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time to start a POSOTM thread, rather than BOTM!
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Hi rodriguez thank you very much for that I cant access internet on my mobile phone as i've forgotten my password for this site lol
and can only access it on my work pc,
but last night I purchased these handlebars don't shoot me
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112281074753?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=412697445239&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
No probs.
We'll not shoot you but I'll give you an honest opinion, those bars are heading in the right direction but the just aren't quite right and won't look so good, the bottom bar is too wide, really on that frame you need knee savers, if it was me I'd cancel the purchase or return them if they've already sent it'll only cost you a couple of quid.
Here's another set of bars that would be better, you can see how the bottom bar is a lot narrower.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/nos-old-school-bmx-bars-knee-saver-style/122299614641?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D7dc5796467014759bf6cb1ea9ab32f66%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D302257368220
You are nearly there :daumenhoch:
Heres another couple of bikes for inspiration.
http://bmxmuseum.com/bikes/standard_bykes/12774
http://bmxmuseum.com/bikes/standard_bykes/88350
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See below ... good advice.
You've gone the other way and bought 'too new' ... the ones linked below are great for the frame :daumenhoch:
Hi rodriguez thank you very much for that I cant access internet on my mobile phone as i've forgotten my password for this site lol
and can only access it on my work pc,
but last night I purchased these handlebars don't shoot me
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112281074753?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=412697445239&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
No probs.
We'll not shoot you but I'll give you an honest opinion, those bars are heading in the right direction but the just aren't quite right and won't look so good, the bottom bar is too wide, really on that frame you need knee savers, if it was me I'd cancel the purchase or return them if they've already sent it'll only cost you a couple of quid.
Here's another set of bars that would be better, you can see how the bottom bar is a lot narrower.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/nos-old-school-bmx-bars-knee-saver-style/122299614641?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20140122125356%26meid%3D7dc5796467014759bf6cb1ea9ab32f66%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D302257368220
You are nearly there :daumenhoch:
Heres another couple of bikes for inspiration.
http://bmxmuseum.com/bikes/standard_bykes/12774
http://bmxmuseum.com/bikes/standard_bykes/88350
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time to start a POSOTM thread, rather than BOTM!
Bit harsh that ... I prefer the approach of 'encouragement while you learn'
Ace is learning and enjoying the process ... give him a chance :daumenhoch:
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yes a little abrupt, although i suspect meant in good humour and missing a smiley ?
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You might also what to consider one of these 1 inch gyros too Ace
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FISHBONE-Set-complete-fishbone-rotor-BMX-25-5mm-bicycle-/281810789128?hash=item419d3b6308:g:L-gAAOSwWnFWBvIP
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rodriguez I would love to fit the gyro cables but I have no idea how to fit them i'm already struggling with the U cable lol
I have a few new parts coming for the bike can't wait to ride it lol
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rodriguez I would love to fit the gyro cables but I have no idea how to fit them i'm already struggling with the U cable lol
I have a few new parts coming for the bike can't wait to ride it lol
What kind of gyro do you have? Are you struggling to fit the upper or the lower Y-cable(s) ? :daumenhoch:
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Don't cut your forks go with Spens fix for your headset problem
Your "fix" is on the way Abid - let me know it's arrived ok and if you understood my explanation pm on what bit to put where :coolsmiley:
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rodriguez I would love to fit the gyro cables but I have no idea how to fit them i'm already struggling with the U cable lol
I have a few new parts coming for the bike can't wait to ride it lol
What kind of gyro do you have? Are you struggling to fit the upper or the lower Y-cable(s) ? :daumenhoch:
no gyro at the moment, just a standard u brake I think i'm missing something hence why it won't work properly will try to upload a picture later on tonight
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Don't cut your forks go with Spens fix for your headset problem
Your "fix" is on the way Abid - let me know it's arrived ok and if you understood my explanation pm on what bit to put where :coolsmiley:
Thanks Spen much appreciated will let you know if I get stuck
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Hi guys let me know what u lot think
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/D7160C33-DE10-479A-AB11-2F49CCCCB791_zpsffi9u8rh.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/D7160C33-DE10-479A-AB11-2F49CCCCB791_zpsffi9u8rh.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/C5F8E3B0-B7BB-4617-87F4-698D2BD2E79C_zpshufxbzuh.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/C5F8E3B0-B7BB-4617-87F4-698D2BD2E79C_zpshufxbzuh.jpg.html)
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/80687508-258F-4388-A13C-C75D088AE6D3_zpsx65lhebe.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/80687508-258F-4388-A13C-C75D088AE6D3_zpsx65lhebe.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/26E9056F-BE88-470E-BFEF-17870B51951E_zpspjoynqx3.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/26E9056F-BE88-470E-BFEF-17870B51951E_zpspjoynqx3.jpg.html)
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/A73C24E1-684D-4F5D-906C-220D8D3B3B60_zpsjrmkcx4d.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/A73C24E1-684D-4F5D-906C-220D8D3B3B60_zpsjrmkcx4d.jpg.html)
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I agree those bars are a bit too modern for it.
For the love of all that is holy, what's with the reflectors? It's not a Burner ;)
Not keen on the white wall tyres, something skin walked would be nicer but understand you're on a budget :daumenhoch:
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Hi Abid - have the spacers worked mate? For the record I actually like it (except the reflectors!) even though it's a bit of mix and match, who cares, just get it riden and enjoy it :coolsmiley:
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It's a bit of a mish mash but looks cool imo....The one thing that stands out which needs changing to me is the stem! way too skinny...looks like it is about to snap!! something like a nice polished Dk shouldn't break the bank....Above all you have a BMX to ride and enjoy, which is more than most do on here.... :daumenhoch:
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I agree those bars are a bit too modern for it.
For the love of all that is holy, what's with the reflectors? It's not a Burner ;)
Not keen on the white wall tyres, something skin walked would be nicer but understand you're on a budget :daumenhoch:
I've put the first set of bars for sale once they sell will buy the right ones
I took it out today first time I've just put it on for safety even tho I've purchased Lights for it
I wanted a white wall look, I have new kenda tyres that Andrew sent me if I get bored Il put them on
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Hi Abid - have the spacers worked mate? For the record I actually like it (except the reflectors!) even though it's a bit of mix and match, who cares, just get it riden and enjoy it :coolsmiley:
Hi mate thank you
Just need to clean the spacers and will put them on :daumenhoch:
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It's a bit of a mish mash but looks cool imo....The one thing that stands out which needs changing to me is the stem! way too skinny...looks like it is about to snap!! something like a nice polished Dk shouldn't break the bank....Above all you have a BMX to ride and enjoy, which is more than most do on here.... :daumenhoch:
Bars will be replaced once I sell the old ones, I was looking at a stem that someone put a link on here few days ago and I missed it on Sunday as I was driving and forgot to bid on eBay :(
All in good time il say atleast now I can ride it
Thank you
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Glad they arrived ok - like I said, there's a couple of cheap midschool stems in my for sale thread mate, the third from the left is a chunky black Dyno for twelve quid posted :coolsmiley:
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa149/Spen69/IMG_0396_zpss6y6aznf.jpg) (http://s196.photobucket.com/user/Spen69/media/IMG_0396_zpss6y6aznf.jpg.html)
Cheaper than ebay and you don't have to bid :daumenhoch:
http://www.radbmx.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,189810.0.html
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not bad that :daumenhoch:
don't think the bars are that far out of place, i think the real problem is the stem , it's got quit a high rise to it, something a little flatter and wider will improve the line of the front end, by lowering the bars towards the frame , take the plunge and trim down the steerer tube to lower the headset , it's easy enough to do if you measure it well an take your time to cut it , again will improve the look of the front end , turn the seat guts round so they're inside the seat , tan wall tires would be more suited to the era, and are a good contrast to chrome and will tie in the odd couple of yellow parts you have on , of course just M.O
looks like you've set it up for cruising round on , you may find should you hit up jumps or skateparks you may want to move the bars back inline with the forks , this will get rid of the twitchy feel to front end :daumenhoch:
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If you do decide to try and cut the forks down, make sure you wind your headset top-cap on first followed by the top-nut I sent you without the stopper ring on it way past the area you are cutting as this will help clear the threads after you've cut them. Make sure you file the burrs (sharp edges) off first then when you wind the nut and the top-cap back off one at a time, you will get two chances to straighten out the cut threads :daumenhoch:
Not assuming you are daft, but make sure you take your time, use a good vice and a sharp hacksaw blade :coolsmiley:
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Hi guys sorry not replied took the bike to work today
And been having issues with the sprocket I believe as the chain is getting loose and tight automatically and it doesn't spin freely
Had a look on YouTube and it comes up as the crank arm where the sprocket sits it should have a bolt going through it but on this arm the sprocket just pops in and it's unevenly rubbing I took the arm off and as you can see in this picture the sprocket is unevenly worn
Damn only purchased this crankset off eBay and the sprocket from separate sellers,
What do I do now
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/1D3352E6-AA20-49C7-A287-9A087997E97F_zpsblfkx8me.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/1D3352E6-AA20-49C7-A287-9A087997E97F_zpsblfkx8me.jpg.html)
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/B14709A8-3376-485A-9205-A33A2176EDB8_zpstfqpedca.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/B14709A8-3376-485A-9205-A33A2176EDB8_zpstfqpedca.jpg.html)
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(7.50mins onwards)
you need a 19 or 22mm top hat washer which fits in the chain wheels center hole, this will fill the gap and stops the movement plus centers everything! don't worry you haven't fully wrecked it just don't ride it until you fit one, and everything will run lovely and smooth ;) ;) ;) ;)
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you need a 19 or 22mm top hat washer which fits in the chain wheels center hole
I'll have a look in my box of stuff Abid as i'm sure I have one. Not having much luck mate but hang in there,we'll get you sorted. Can you measure the outside diameter of the crank spindle to be sure it's a 19mm and not a 22mm on though :-\
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(7.50mins onwards)
you need a 19 or 22mm top hat washer which fits in the chain wheels center hole, this will fill the gap and stops the movement plus centers everything! don't worry you haven't fully wrecked it just don't ride it until you fit one, and everything will run lovely and smooth ;) ;) ;) ;)
Thank you for that what a relieve. I've tried tightening the chain like 20 times and loosen it by undoing the nuts on the wheel
Was going mad and then thought something is not right
Much appreciated
The ride I had to work was amazing after all those years
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you need a 19 or 22mm top hat washer which fits in the chain wheels center hole
I'll have a look in my box of stuff Abid as i'm sure I have one. Not having much luck mate but hang in there,we'll get you sorted. Can you measure the outside diameter of the crank spindle to be sure it's a 19mm ad not a 20mm on though :-\
Hi Spen your a life saver
I've just measured it and it's 22mm
Damn was looking forward to riding it weekend lol guess the wait will be worth it in the end :daumenhoch:
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Abid I only have 19mm crank stuff unfortunately as i've never owe'd anything 22mm. The one you need is a 22-23.8mm top hat washer. I did a quick search and Jack at Waller BMX has one:
https://wallerbmx.co.uk/top-hat-spacer-bmx.html
Make sure choose the right one and don't forget it will cost £2.99 for the washer and £2.99 to post it. Or he is literally 2 miles from my house so I can go into the shop this morning and buy it and put it in the envelope with the Dyno stem if you want to buy that for £12 posted so £15 for both items - it's up to you mate :daumenhoch:
Let me know
Tried Alan's and they are ut of stock.
https://m.alansbmx.com/231693/products/crank-top-hat-washer.aspx?oldid=231693&mredirect=true
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Top work Spen, that's why this place is THE best :4_17_5:
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Abid I only have 19mm crank stuff unfortunately as i've never owe'd anything 22mm. The one you need is a 22-23.8mm top hat washer. I did a quick search and Jack at Waller BMX has one:
https://wallerbmx.co.uk/top-hat-spacer-bmx.html
Make sure choose the right one and don't forget it will cost £2.99 for the washer and £2.99 to post it. Or he is literally 2 miles from my house so I can go into the shop this morning and buy it and put it in the envelope with the Dyno stem if you want to buy that for £12 posted so £15 for both items - it's up to you mate :daumenhoch:
Let me know
Tried Alan's and they are ut of stock.
https://m.alansbmx.com/231693/products/crank-top-hat-washer.aspx?oldid=231693&mredirect=true
Good morning Spen thanks for that send me payment details mate cheers
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(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/26E9056F-BE88-470E-BFEF-17870B51951E_zpspjoynqx3.jpg)
its improving all the time that fistblump ... to go over the great advice you have had ...
- bars at worst have to be straight up and never forward ... tilted back a little is best
- reflectors are the first thing that Mr Hammer needs to meet :-)
- bars are good enough but mid ones would be better ... same for the tyres ... they are ok but fatter tan walls better
- stem needs to go as discussed ... its awful ;)
- brake lever needs moving forward - it should be comfortable to pull from a standing, not sitting position
I've got a top hat washer if needed ( if Spen can't get you one )
I've also got a chunky Fishbone seat clamp you can have :daumenhoch: just tell me what diameter yours is and I will check mine fits
( did you get your password sorted btw? )
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Hi Ed thanks password is sorted
- I will defo adjust the bars
- reflectors will be gone
- Stem will be sorted from Spen + top hat if he can't get hold of one then I will be in tocuh
- will adjust the lever too
- seat clamp size is 28.6mm
thank you very much :daumenhoch:
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Abid i'll be down to see Jack in about an hour mate to drop a wheel off so i'll let you know. Checked the Dyno stem over and it's all present and correct so i'll go to the post office on my way back from Waller BMX and get them off to you.
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Abid i'll be down to see Jack in about an hour mate to drop a wheel off so i'll let you know. Checked the Dyno stem over and it's all present and correct so i'll go to the post office on my way back from Waller BMX and get them off to you.
Thank you Spen message me your mobile number and paypal details and then I will pay right away
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Top hat washer collected and posted with the stem Abid :daumenhoch:
Fingers crossed they might land tomorrow with a bit of luck :coolsmiley:
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thank you very much mate I just paid
what can I say Top man
really appreciate you going out of your way :daumenhoch:
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thank you very much mate I just paid
what can I say Top man
really appreciate you going out of your way :daumenhoch:
Good ol Spen ... he never comes up short ;D
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thank you very much mate I just paid
what can I say Top man
really appreciate you going out of your way :daumenhoch:
Good ol Spen ... he never comes up short ;D
You'd think it would get old ;D
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;D no never does
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Looks great man.
I would only worry about the period correctness if you just want to sit and look at it. At the end of the day if you are going to actually ride it do whatever feels best for you.
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Received the top hat and the dyno stem thank you very much Spen
It's much better now but has a tiny bit of play in the disk chain slightly tightens up I'm going to ride it to work tomorrow hopefully I will be able to live with it managed to change the stem too, took the reflectors off and straightened the bars. Is the stem ok the way I've tightened it
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/AEA1DCC0-EF21-43EE-AE6A-6FCB6E158780_zpsjnyfion4.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/AEA1DCC0-EF21-43EE-AE6A-6FCB6E158780_zpsjnyfion4.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/7184CC5A-C19B-46FC-9DCD-C01384352804_zpss8o42vtn.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/7184CC5A-C19B-46FC-9DCD-C01384352804_zpss8o42vtn.jpg.html)
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/0597A1DC-935B-4AC3-8691-580EF7055848_zpsbfdr9s4y.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/0597A1DC-935B-4AC3-8691-580EF7055848_zpsbfdr9s4y.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/DBA4F6CA-D38C-4DF3-8D15-004DD1E218BC_zpsknvzab7p.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/DBA4F6CA-D38C-4DF3-8D15-004DD1E218BC_zpsknvzab7p.jpg.html)
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I would only worry about the period correctness if you just want to sit and look at it. At the end of the day if you are going to actually ride it do whatever feels best for you.
There's a bit more to it than that. Parts that are too early or too late just don't sit well together... its not just about sitting and looking at it. No one who is taking the time to build a bike and start and thread on here is just doing it to ride it ... they are doing it to get feedback, learn and feel they have built a decent looking bike ... this bike is well on the way to being just that that through the changes made from the suggestions ... using stuff from around the right time just makes it look right as they were all designed around the same time with the same ethic behind it :daumenhoch:
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Abid that looks great mate. Just make sure the top of the stem is parallel with the base and really tight fistblump
Back to the chainring wobble, I assume it now moves side to side slightly, not up and down as it was before - if so the chainwheel is possibly fractionally thinner than the recess on the top hat washer and could need a bottom bracket washer to help it sit tight. Let me know and I will post out one to you to finally sort it mate :daumenhoch:
I forgot to say earlier this bike looks great now. Yes eventually change the tyres but only for final looks. Just get it ridden and enjoyEd now the better weather is here :coolsmiley:
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Stem looks loads better! :daumenhoch:
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looks a lot better with that stem , :daumenhoch:
file/grind the inner of the top hat so it is a little thinner than the chainwheel , this will sort out the side to side movement , you may not have enough room on the spindle to add a spacer washer, as the spindle length is set on the driveside
as to forwards backwards movement , i've noticed the crank set has a peg for the chainwheel , this looks as though it is a machined bolt , or a threaded peg with a lock nut, see if it comes out, you could make a spacer (washers) or use the locknut if thats what it is, for the outer of the chainring then use a bolt to hold the chainring to the arm , it's most likely an m8 or m10 thread , m10 is a standard crank arm bolt with a allen key head, reason for this is you may find the hole in the chainwheel will stretch out over time increasing the movement issue , older one piece cranks caused the same issue
i know you have just bought the crankset but put on the list for the future a change to a tubular cromo crankset , will have a few advantages will be lighter, stronger and have a bolt in the arm for the chainwheel ,
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If those pegs are bolt on (threaded) then you shouldn't use your wheel nuts. You want them against the frame as a brace or that axle will bend fast.
And flip the seat guts man. Looks 100 times better ;)
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Hi guys sorry not been on here for a good few days
Excuse the rubber thingies they are lights lol had them on at
Night today
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/F8F88750-D630-4576-BC42-EDA6DF7C0BC1_zpseflhksdq.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/F8F88750-D630-4576-BC42-EDA6DF7C0BC1_zpseflhksdq.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/8D5E0A18-44A9-43A0-A4A6-CE2FADCB59D7_zpsvobwzaga.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/8D5E0A18-44A9-43A0-A4A6-CE2FADCB59D7_zpsvobwzaga.jpg.html)
I made a video of me riding and you can hear the crank crekaing I'm sure you will know exactly what is happening trying to upload it to Photobucket but it's not happening
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if its noisy then somthing is moving, most probably the arms ,
thin smear of grease on the splines and tighten up the crank end and pinch bolts, to seat the arms properly, plenty of grease in the bb bearings, check for play in the bb and adjust if needed, forged arms will make noise if not tightened up , more so with new sets like yours
sounds odd but sometimes the same noise can come from the stem , it sounds like the crank/bb area as it only does it whilst riding , may not be this in your case but it's worth checking , agian thin smear of grease between the wedge and quill and tighten up the bolt well usually sorts this
just out of interest (nagging little voice in my head) is the chainwheel on the outside of the axle flange? ie you can take the arm and chainwheel off without removing the bottom bracket ?
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Hi guys sorry for not replying sooner have missed a few posts
I've got the pegs on for show will not be doing any stunts in a hurry
Is it better to take the nut of and screw the peg all the way to the frame ?
I will need to get some grease and grease the splines don't think they have much grease on them
And go over everything and tighten it,
The arm has no bolt going through the chain ring as soon as you take the arm off chain ring slips off due to it not being bolted in as chain ring slides into the hole and then u just tighten the arm
Also my little cousin has a 9 tooth rear cassette and a 30t chain ring and says his bike is quicker and can keep on paddling unlike mine which will not paddle at a certain speed
What's the benefit off having a smaller sprocket and rear cassette
Will be riding to work on it later it's all nice and clean polished up
Cheers
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post up a pic of the chainring side of the cranks as you have them fitted ,
it's sounding like you have the bottom bracket assembled incorrectly
it's just odd that you needed a top hat washer , usually they are not needed on loosball bb, just been nagging at me since you posted up the chainring issue,
as to gearing , ( front gear first rear second) i assume you are running 44t up front and 16t on the back , which is pretty much standard bmx , you may have 17 or 18 on the back if so dropping to 16 will improve things (shoten the chain to suit)
small or new school gearing , usually it's a 25/9 which is near enough equal to 44/16 or a 28/9 which is like a 45/16
usuall gearing is old school 44/16 or 45/16
new school 25/9 or 28/9
new school 28/10 is also near enough 44/16 , there are lots of other combinations that produce similar ratios ,
all relates to how hard it is to pedal a harder gear will be slower/harder to get going but will give you more speed for less crank rotation, once your rolling, it gets complicated going into anymore detail than that ;D :daumenhoch:
if your little cousin i running 30/9 he must have legs like Popeye :LolLolLolLol:
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Hi thanks for explaining I've attached the pictures for you
Halfords put the bearings in for me as I was having trouble getting them in and even they had trouble
But the splines might need greasing as they don't have that much on them
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/B635A0F7-F10B-493B-AB04-DA9FD9ECF032_zpsks4mvakz.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/B635A0F7-F10B-493B-AB04-DA9FD9ECF032_zpsks4mvakz.jpg.html)
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/D83F0758-0C4F-49BB-89C0-EE9687652223_zpse13qwdq1.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/D83F0758-0C4F-49BB-89C0-EE9687652223_zpse13qwdq1.jpg.html)
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/B4190246-7C5D-4BEB-861D-7C670DE6475F_zpsnivqtbcr.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/B4190246-7C5D-4BEB-861D-7C670DE6475F_zpsnivqtbcr.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/0980DB3A-4413-4DDD-8978-44716629E0D7_zpstzlkilty.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/0980DB3A-4413-4DDD-8978-44716629E0D7_zpstzlkilty.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/BFA51035-CA20-4424-98F0-D2FD98CBCD38_zpsdohcun0h.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/BFA51035-CA20-4424-98F0-D2FD98CBCD38_zpsdohcun0h.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/A9AFDE88-EE12-41A7-9672-DF5E0EA3B49B_zpscq5nddbt.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/A9AFDE88-EE12-41A7-9672-DF5E0EA3B49B_zpscq5nddbt.jpg.html)
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/CE930A35-FA65-4F7D-85FD-79984F622EC7_zpsyo2hjydy.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/CE930A35-FA65-4F7D-85FD-79984F622EC7_zpsyo2hjydy.jpg.html)
Is this gap normal ?
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/E44EB396-460B-42B6-8968-D325664D95D3_zpskvrh1ws2.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/E44EB396-460B-42B6-8968-D325664D95D3_zpskvrh1ws2.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/5A7351F9-EC5D-4A28-BA63-9F52ADB4811B_zpsbyqceeec.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/5A7351F9-EC5D-4A28-BA63-9F52ADB4811B_zpsbyqceeec.jpg.html)
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thought so you have put the bottom bracket together wrong! and is potentially dangerous ! you have the bottom bracket fitted backwards!!! take it apart now!!
sorry to be abrupt , i thought this was the problem to begin with , easily done with components you are not familiar with and tbh i have seen this done before i'll dig one out and post up pics of how it should go together :daumenhoch:
bottom bracket, if you need pics of one in a frame lmk i'll put it in a frame, if you put it together correctly the chainring will not come off without taking the bottom bracket apart , the drive arm can be removed ,you will not need the top hat washer,
you must have problems with chain alighnment too? the chainring may be a little loose on the axle as it it already damaged a little, however if you tighten up the race nut well (nut with big notches) it should not be to bad don't forget the big washer or the chainring will hit the bb cups, first pic.
did you get a fitting instruction sheet with the cranks ?
driveside chainring side
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/ff98/jimjdld/bmx/1_zpsuxedrguw.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/ff98/jimjdld/bmx/2_zpsxcxwxqy3.jpg)
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff98/jimjdld/bmx/4_zpsp4nzyblx.jpg)
non drive side
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/ff98/jimjdld/bmx/3_zpsvc0uofxk.jpg)
turn the axle round this should be on the drive side, (pic below)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/ff98/jimjdld/bmx/5_zpstyni9zte.jpg)
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Right , tbh i replied based on the pictures , i didn't read the text, i opologise for stating this is something you have done :daumenhoch:
if the mods find this unaceptable then please delete but the following needs to be said
go back to halfords and tell the bloke who put it together he's a fooking muggy c**t ( swear filter no doubt worked here)
not much winds me up tbh, but fook me!!!! they are suposed to be professional mechanics , what they have done is potentially life threatening , as you said you ride this work , every one on Rad is all to aware of the tragic events that can occour by simply falling off on the road
:rant: :rant: :rant: ffs :LolLolLolLol:
go in and tell them ,ring them up, they may have made the same mistake on other bikes , possibly childrens bikes
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::) top advice
lesson 1 - Don't ever get halfords any work for you on any type of vehicle, nevermind a BMX, go to an independent local bike shop/garage that have properly trained mechanics, very few halfords do, they are mostly just young fellas who have a bit of experience working on mtbs, cars etc.
lesson 2 - Try to do the stuff yourself, have patience, research what you want to do and how you are going to do it, google, you tube and RADBMX are your friends here, you can learn how to do almost anything on a bicycle, especially a BMX using youtube and a few basic tools.
lesson 3 - Walk before you can run, maybe you should have started off with a BMX that was already built, took it apart and built it back up again a few times, changed bits out etc the way most of us learned back in the day before embarking on a build from scratch.
Maybe lesson 3 should have been lesson 1 bit late now but thought it was worth adding anyway.
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Most of the work I did myself and with help on here, only problem I was having I couldn't get the cups in and hence why I went to halfords
if I got the cups in I wouldn't have been in this situation
but you all on here are so helpful and it's much appreciated
will be taking the crank apart when I get in
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Most of the work I did myself and with help on here, only problem I was having I couldn't get the cups in and hence why I went to halfords
if I got the cups in I wouldn't have been in this situation
but you all on here are so helpful and it's much appreciated
will be taking the crank apart when I get in
A loose ball 3 piece US bottom bracket is a pain in the ass I know where I'd put it :LolLolLolLol:
Main thing is you've got there and you've learnt how to do the stuff yourself :daumenhoch:
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:daumenhoch: few pics that may help, sometimes better than words as the method can be a little crude :LolLolLolLol:
used a small chainring just to make the pics a bit clearer
1 chainring on the large threaded side inside the flange (top hat washer not needed as the axle is the correct size on this side)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/ff98/jimjdld/bmx/cheap%203pc%20bb/d1_zpsrzlwxl7z.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/ff98/jimjdld/bmx/cheap%203pc%20bb/d1a_zpsog3z0qo3.jpg)
2 big washer
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/ff98/jimjdld/bmx/cheap%203pc%20bb/d2_zps9fwqtans.jpg)
3 race seat, at this point you can fit the drive arm to get the chainwheel bolt (peg in your case) in place,if it's a bolt don't tighten it down until the race seat is tight, thin smear of grease on the splines, nip up the pinch bolt a small amount so the arm holds on , tighten up fully the axle bolt to seat the arm then tighten up fully the pinch bolt , tighten up the race seat , use something in one of the large notches and hit it with a hammer to tighten it up ,there is a proper spanner for this but the hammer method works , just untill it stops moving after a good whack, this locks the chainwheel in place and stops it moveing (yout first issue solved)
i've left the spacer of the chainwheel bolt so you can see the threads but this is the peg on your crank
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/ff98/jimjdld/bmx/cheap%203pc%20bb/d3_zps8a6f4vbo.jpg)
bearings should be this way round in the cups , pack em with grease the more the better you can't put to much grease in
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/ff98/jimjdld/bmx/cheap%203pc%20bb/bearings_zpszxyr5gpx.jpg)
put axle through the bb and fit the non drive side
1 race seat
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff98/jimjdld/bmx/cheap%203pc%20bb/nd1_zpsbmhn6qzk.jpg)
2 washer
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff98/jimjdld/bmx/cheap%203pc%20bb/nd2_zpsvxo9ury1.jpg)
3 lock nut
(http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff98/jimjdld/bmx/cheap%203pc%20bb/nd3_zpsab05km0p.jpg)
adjust the race seat so there is no sideway movement on the axle then tighten up the lock nut , you may find the axle will not move freely after you tighten up the lock nut, if this is the case undo it and undo the race seat about 1/8 of a turn , then tighten up the lock nut again and check to see if the axle is free, repeat as needed, it should have a small amount of resistance to rotation but spin freely and smoothly with no sideways movement
fit the nondrive arm using the same method as the drive arm , pinch bolt enough to hold the arm on, full tighten the axle bolt , there should be a shoulder for it to butt up to and nipping up the pinch bolt a little stops the arm going over the shoulder , then tighten up the pinch bolt
should look like this if correct
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/ff98/jimjdld/bmx/cheap%203pc%20bb/drive_zps52uswvjv.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/ff98/jimjdld/bmx/cheap%203pc%20bb/non20drive_zpsccadsepw.jpg)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/ff98/jimjdld/bmx/cheap%203pc%20bb/both_zps8kavinyb.jpg)
(the nondrive axle bolt is missing of the pic :-[)
if you've got it right the cranks should spin nice and smooth with no noise and no sideways movement, there should be a very small amount of resistance when turning them by hand, ride it a few hours then check for movement and adjust the non drive side nuts if needed ,and check the crank bolts, tighten as needed, you may have to do this a couple of times whilst the bb beds in properly but after a few times it should all stay tight
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that is a "how to" of the highest order!!! :4_17_5:
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another little nag has just cropped up :LolLolLolLol: the frames built for 39/14 gearing , really hope im wrong on this :LolLolLolLol:
could be another spanner in the works after the bb fiddling ;D
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Went to Halfords this morning they still didn't get it right.
Spoke to Jim and he explained to me what I need to do
He went beyond his way
And in about 15 mins I had it sorted
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/DD179A1D-085A-49C3-80BA-DA3FD41D1B04_zps1wexg0cu.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/DD179A1D-085A-49C3-80BA-DA3FD41D1B04_zps1wexg0cu.jpg.html)
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/898519CC-F681-416A-843C-96FC2173B4A0_zpsz59rt1b7.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/898519CC-F681-416A-843C-96FC2173B4A0_zpsz59rt1b7.jpg.html)
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/14ABD227-FD93-4DE6-8B94-A44D409846D5_zpshvfsq5s0.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/14ABD227-FD93-4DE6-8B94-A44D409846D5_zpshvfsq5s0.jpg.html)
(http://i465.photobucket.com/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/E5569188-8824-4A90-841A-6045D8F3AB8A_zpsjrm9vx6o.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/E5569188-8824-4A90-841A-6045D8F3AB8A_zpsjrm9vx6o.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/23B4E605-2397-4766-B9DD-8F14352BBF11_zps7tywh4ue.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/23B4E605-2397-4766-B9DD-8F14352BBF11_zps7tywh4ue.jpg.html)
(http://www.radbmx.co.uk/archive/albums/rr20/fordcortina2008/72A3D17C-68E4-44C1-8DC9-677377B064CD_zpsllg8tkbh.jpg) (http://s465.photobucket.com/user/fordcortina2008/media/72A3D17C-68E4-44C1-8DC9-677377B064CD_zpsllg8tkbh.jpg.html)
Chainring is nice and solid hopefully no more clunking once again really appreciate it Jim 👍
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Jim's a good egg :)
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:daumenhoch: the second little nag of mine was unfounded thankfully ,
just spotted a minor brake issue, but Ace is on the case and weilding his own spanners now :LolLolLolLol: :daumenhoch:
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wheres the barrel adjuster for seatube threaded insert, it makes life a lot easier to fine tune the brake ;) ;) ;) ;)