Author Topic: Restoring my Peregrine 48's (Read 12032 times)

laidback · « **on:** September 29, 2013, 10:14 PM »

Evening all,

I thought i'd pick your brains/get opinions on restoring my 48's.

The front is pretty true, the hub's in good nick and will polish up well, as i think will the spokes. My LBS will true this up and the guy mentioned that i could keep the original spokes, but the nipples might need replacing. Not sure whether to go the whole hog or not!

I was thinking about stainless spokes and nipples, or maybe some coloured (black maybe) anodised nipples?

How much should i be looking at for a wheel re-lace? i'm new to this

Any thoughts/advice?

Front:

Unfortunately the rear rim was dented beyond repair, but a friend has sourced a used replacement for me, however both rims (Front and rear) need work.. they have scratches and nicks all over them:

I was thinking about polishing these out with fine wet and dry paper, then using autosol on the rim to finish it. Is this a good idea, or are they not worth it/is there a better method?

Id obviously be removing the anodising, so will i forever be polishing them?

If i have the cash, i will look at replacement decals too, anyone know of someone producing these?

Thanks for reading, hope you guys can guide me in the right direction!

Discostu · « **Reply #1 on:** September 29, 2013, 11:20 PM »

Wet and dry the edges, stainless spokes with silver nipples to stop rusting spokes in six months time, and peregrine decals from del, make sure you ask for the early type.

laidback · « **Reply #2 on:** September 30, 2013, 06:40 AM »

Thanks for the reply. I tried to go on Dels website, doesn't seem to be working. Shall i just PM him on here, or does he have a thread to post in?

Discostu · « **Reply #3 on:** September 30, 2013, 07:31 AM »

Just pm him on here.

Dannywhac · « **Reply #4 on:** September 30, 2013, 10:44 AM »

My LBS charges £16 a wheel for a build.

I build me own - you should give it a go - it's easier than it looks, rewarding and there's a handy guide here:

http://www.radbmx.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,1344.0.html

Sid1972 · « **Reply #5 on:** September 30, 2013, 06:07 PM »

I did a step by step guide on wheel restoring some time back. Search my name it should still be on here.

laidback · « **Reply #6 on:** October 01, 2013, 07:59 PM »

Thanks for the reply's guys.

I found a spoke key, so i'll probably have a go at dismantling/rebuilding one and see how i get on

I had a practice polish today, started with 240 grit wet and dry and worked up to 1500, finished with Autosol. Here's the results:

Before:

After:

Not bad for a quick job, long way to go before i get a mirror finish!

I'm currently debating whether to do the whole hoop, including the flat part where the lettering etc is, whilst the wheels apart. Thoughts?

Also, should i be using a block, as i have just been using wet and dry in my fingers...will this method make the surface of the rim uneven?

Cheers

Sid1972 · « **Reply #7 on:** October 01, 2013, 10:15 PM »

Always use a block, using wet and dry will not make the surface uneven enough for u to notice. But

the block will give u a more consistent finish.

U will need a buffer really to get a mirror finish.

dordymush · « **Reply #8 on:** October 02, 2013, 02:20 PM »

or better still sell them to me as they are and save you messing with em

wilsey72 · « **Reply #9 on:** October 02, 2013, 02:59 PM »

Good start mate, keep us updated how it goes... I've got some to do as well.

ED209 · « **Reply #10 on:** October 02, 2013, 03:06 PM »

doubt if you want to rebuild with same spokes so save a lot of hassle by cutting the spokes out with an angle grinder ... job done in seconds :-)

laidback · « **Reply #11 on:** October 19, 2013, 08:24 PM »

Well as it was pretty miserable outside today, i set about stripping the 48's. I've arranged to borrow Animals wheels straightening kit too, so fingers crossed i can save the rear rim.

I separated the spokes into 'innies and outies' as i wasnt sure whether they'd be different lengths...Does anyone know if i'll need to order two lengths of spokes to build the wheels? haven't measured them yet.

Another question...When i replace the spoked and nipples, does anyone know what length/guage i need, and the best place to order them from?

The fruits of my labour:

Sid1972 · « **Reply #12 on:** October 19, 2013, 09:24 PM »

Measure the old spokes from the bend to the end of the thread and that will give u your size.

scoff · « **Reply #13 on:** October 19, 2013, 09:43 PM »

Wait for another rainy day and have a go at building your own wheel? If you've an old wheel, take it apart and try and put it back together? I build my own wheels, I have all the tools now (jig and spoke threader) and I taught myself on a rainy day too, with a few youtube video's.

laidback · « **Reply #14 on:** October 19, 2013, 10:39 PM »

The plan is to attempt to build these myself

I just need to order the spokes and nipples and do some work on the hoops.

Have any of you chaps got any suggestions for where to buy the spokes? still considering the Black nipples to break up the silver/tie in with the decals.

I polished up the front hub tonight with various grades of wet and dry and autosol...

Before:

After:

quite pleased with that. Was supposed to be off out for a few beers, but got sidetracked!

GavinDavis · « **Reply #15 on:** October 19, 2013, 11:00 PM »

Nice job of the polishing! Thats turned out pretty damn sweet! From what I remember youre gonna need 184mm spokes but dont take my word for it. There's a thread on the museum that has loads and loads of spoke sizes for various rim/hub applications if you cant measure your own....do a searchy and thee will find

.

laidback · « **Reply #16 on:** October 20, 2013, 10:29 PM »

well, whilst the mrs was out at the cinema, i cracked open a beer and polished up the rear hub. Getting quite good at this polishing malarky. I hope the rims turn out nearly as nice.

Quick newbie question- are these hubs classed as 'high flange' hubs? i'm guessing they are?...

Results:

Before:

After:

oldskull · « **Reply #17 on:** October 21, 2013, 12:12 AM »

Look good! I got pair of hp48 ready for rebuild too. This thread will give me the idea for winter project! Thanks for sharing!!!

laidback · « **Reply #18 on:** October 26, 2013, 03:54 PM »

Afternoon all,

Well I've done a bit more on these recently. Having read Sids resto guide, I gave them a bath in Caustic Soda to remove the anodising:

x

Now this is stripped I have noticed some pitting on the brake surface of the rim. I think this may have been caused by the caustic soda:

Slightly annoying...I'm guessing the only way to remove
These is to use course sandpaper and work my way back up whilst polishing? Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this and how they got rid of the marks?

Seems like a lot of hassle! I guess they'll be worth it in the end!

oldtired · « **Reply #19 on:** October 26, 2013, 08:45 PM »

just out of interest did the rims discolor after the caustic bath either brown or black ?

i take it you dipped em after you rubbed down the brake surface , seems unusual to get pitting on an already flatted off surface , bare alloy will discolor almost straight away in caustic and the anno finish should dissolve long before pitting starts, you should be left with a smooth surface under the discoloration that will polish up by hand pretty well.

some one might know if hp rims were hard anno?

if that's the case then some hard anno will not come of with caustic you have to use abrasive to get it off before a caustic/ acidic clean, or have em re anodized professionally

laidback · « **Reply #20 on:** October 26, 2013, 09:28 PM »

They didn't discolour greatly. They were in the solution for about an hour, turned
Every 10 mins or so. I rubbed down a section of one rim before I dipped
Them, so they weren't completely bare aluminium.
I wonder if the solution was too strong/I left them in for too long, hence the pitting.

I'll attack them with some 80 grit and see what happens, it's the only way i can see to get rid of the pitting.

oldtired · « **Reply #21 on:** October 27, 2013, 07:18 AM »

been in the solution to long i'm affraid,week solution for a long time will produce the pitting ,

your better off with a stronger solution for a short period of time , and rinse with lots of water straight after removing them also get any discoloration polished off before it has time to dry out as it will set back (oxidize) into the alloy

depending on how strong your solution was , they should have gone black or brown and the soluotion should have been bubbling getting warm and producing some nasty fumes , the last rim i stripped with caustic took a few mins to completely remove the anno from the whole rim

looking at the last pic the one with the pitted brake surface it looks to me as though the anno has not come of , there's a definate line betwween the side and top surface, where the brakes have rubbed, should be the same color side and top , noticed the stickers are still on too, usually they will come off when the anno dissolves underneath them , looking like these might be hard anno?

just out of interest again were the bricks you used to take up the volume nice and clean , caustic dissolves organic compounds very well so i suspect you've cleaned the bricks rather than the rims ?

laidback · « **Reply #22 on:** October 27, 2013, 10:23 AM »

Thanks for the replys.

The bricks were pretty clean, and i could see and hear the solution fizzing away around the rims, giving off fumes etc. I did think it was strange that the decals had survived the dipping process! (the pitting also only seems to be on the braking surface?)

Anyway, this is a learning curve and what's done is done. Just wondering whether to carry on with these rims or source some others in good condition? These are never going to be perfect. Are they hard to come by, or does anyone know where i can get a pair of correct NOS UKAI 48 hole rims? Any suggestions appreciated

laidback · « **Reply #23 on:** October 27, 2013, 11:23 AM »

Chaps, just considering my options. From what i've read, Peregrine 48s came with either Araya or Ukai rims. If i do decide to change the rims, does anyone know what i should go for? Mine are single walled Ukai's at the moment with loose bearing suzue hubs.

I have seen some NOS Araya 7x rims at a good price. If i lace these up to my suzue hubs and sticker them up as Peregrine 48s is this a no no?

Did peregrine 48s ever come with 7 x rims?

I'm not very clued up with this stuff, so any lessons you guys want to give me will be greatly appreciated!

I'm just thinking it will be a shame to build up using my nice hubs/new spokes etc, only to be let down by the hoops....

Discostu · « **Reply #24 on:** October 27, 2013, 12:10 PM »

They only came with ukai rims.
I would rub the rims down with some wet and dry, going through the various grit levels until they look good.
Even though there is pitting it isn't that deep to effect the structure of the rim. You just need to put in a lot of elbow grease.