Author Topic: skway riveting (Read 7312 times)

84freestyler · « **on:** April 01, 2014, 01:30 PM »

HI

does anyone know or do re riveting on skyway tuff 2,s.. I heard there's someone out in Australia and the US but I've not seen or know of anyone in the uk.. don't want to use bolts cos they look Naff!

Any advice would be much appreciated Guys

Thanks

MartyC · « **Reply #1 on:** April 01, 2014, 02:23 PM »

A good machine shop should be able to help you out. Where are you in the UK as I have a mate near Uxbridge that could probably help out and he is a road and mtb enthusiast so understands the value of these things.

84freestyler · « **Reply #2 on:** April 01, 2014, 05:14 PM »

Mansfield NG18

Wouldn't be for a while tho, just finding out my options, somebody bleached them without protecting the alloy, got a replacement front hub, just need to locate a rear now (without coaster)

Thanks mate.

84freestyler · « **Reply #3 on:** April 03, 2014, 12:04 AM »

If I could get hold of some exact stainless rivets for the hubs my brother and I could probably get somewhere with it, we,re both big car (vintage hotroders) nuts, don't see why this skyway re, riveting hasn't been sorted in the UK to help all us guys out.

Thanks

MartyC · « **Reply #4 on:** April 03, 2014, 11:33 AM »

Quote from: 84freestyler on April 03, 2014, 12:04 AM

If I could get hold of some exact stainless rivets for the hubs my brother and I could probably get somewhere with it, we,re both big car (vintage hotroders) nuts, don't see why this skyway re, riveting hasn't been sorted in the UK to help all us guys out.

Thanks

A couple of people have made their own rivets (don't forget they are tapered) and have managed to get them looking almost OG either through using a press and a peen finish to the rivet head. TBH I don't think there has been much demand for someone to set up a service doing it $:-\$ .

oberonspacefruit · « **Reply #5 on:** April 03, 2014, 12:35 PM »

why are they tapered, and to which end?

fischflo · « **Reply #6 on:** April 03, 2014, 02:23 PM »

Good question - as to which end (i.e : how to remove old rivets):
I think i read somewhere that the right side to drill the caps of the rivets is where they are untouched/original/flat, NOT the side where they seem pressed.

Seems illogical though to me

....shouldn't they look pressed on the slim side of the conic/tapered rivet...?

here's a pic of an original rivet .....and some info in that thread about the machine (TAUMEL spin riveter or smth like that)
http://www.radbmx.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,23223.msg237620.html#msg237620

looptail on the museum about how to remove the rivets:
Take a centre punch to the centre of the rivet head. Drill out starting with a small bit, say 1/8. Then gradually use bigger ones until the head comes off onto the drill bit, making sure you dont use a drill bit bigger than the pin itself. By then you should be able to punch out the pin. Patience plus a good hand!
http://bmxmuseum.com/forums/viewtopic.php?pid=3537993#p3537993

waza there says: "use a mill with an 5mm end mill"

84freestyler · « **Reply #7 on:** April 03, 2014, 02:34 PM »

That's a fair comment Marty. It would be nice to have the know how and tools to sort the hubs, not as a business tho.. It,d beat the filed down nuts n bolts trick some people have done which does look good for show builds..

And the postage to Oz or usa is ridiculous.

Tapered skyway bolts? Is that true.

fischflo · « **Reply #8 on:** April 03, 2014, 02:48 PM »

.....courtesy Chris and Terry

my guess is the top pic shows the pressed side = the flat side = the slim side of the rivet = the side you need to drill off (in order to get the rivet out without cracking the mag)

someone please clear us up for us $:-\$

84freestyler · « **Reply #9 on:** April 03, 2014, 02:55 PM »

Fischflo, good find! I read that too.. The Taumel machines look rather pricey tho don't they.

fischflo · « **Reply #10 on:** April 03, 2014, 03:11 PM »

yeah ...Steve P says 7500 bucks in the States

courtesy Steve P

if that is the original rivet .....AND if/ since the machine is a 'spinning' riveter .....then maybe the roundish/ convex side is in fact the 'pressed' side......... meaning the side to drill into....?

fischflo · « **Reply #11 on:** April 03, 2014, 04:18 PM »

Biagio used to sell original rivets .............

but what's the use, or the use of ones you remade after an original sample one .........if you don't have the waza-machine?

but maybe one could then at least get them riveted in a 'simple' stright-down fashion .......? If this is possible, then the rivets would have two flat sides (...right?), but who cares?

(Which points to the question: would it really have to be a tapered rivet, or would the thing be wobbly with a simpler, straight rivet. But i guess it would be wobbly, since the shank is conical, too)

fischflo · « **Reply #12 on:** April 03, 2014, 04:40 PM »

ha:
drill the shank so you can replace the tapered with a straight rivet

84freestyler · « **Reply #13 on:** April 03, 2014, 09:37 PM »

Yes fischflo, your right "wot the point without a waza machine"

I,Ve been thinking about this and maybe with some trial and error the same could be achieved with a good quality drill on the "hammer" setting with a tempered piece of steel in the chuck with an impression to replicate the original stainless rivet.. You,d be able to rotate the drill manually off axis and maybe with some practice you cud get a similar finish?

Another tool which cud be used wud be an air hammer/chisel dialed up or down on psi until its gonna peen the rivet head down?

Just a thought for now until I source some rivets, and then practice on some scrap alloy before moving onto the tuffs

fischflo · « **Reply #14 on:** April 03, 2014, 11:12 PM »

think i'd concentrate first on either
getting the conic/tpared rivets done and search for a a machine shop that can hammer the thin in

or

finding out if the drilling of the shank would work and finding corresponding straight rivets

before you think about hammering the heads in urself ......although i bet u'd be able to make a buck, if you figure out that, too

84freestyler · « **Reply #15 on:** April 03, 2014, 11:25 PM »

Yes, I agree, lots to figure out fischflo.. The drilling, the density of the rivets (when I,ve sourced them) and wot it,ll take to do the job and actually recreate the same original finish..

Not in it for the moolah Mate!
Just want to sort it out.

Need some knackered tuffs to dissect, any offer Guys? Lol (seriously)

waza007 · « **Reply #16 on:** April 04, 2014, 12:51 AM »

Guys !!!

I'm just laughing about all your theories....

Not to be RUDE to you, but ive tried ALL of the ones you have mentioned.

* You can NOT press the rivets as they will distort and crack the plastic!!
* The rivets are stainless which "work hardens" (meaning the more you hit or press the rivet it gets harder)
* They are NOT tapered
* Drilling or milling the rivets out of the old ones requires a carbide drill/mill bit (Stainless is very tough on bits)

84freestyler · « **Reply #17 on:** April 04, 2014, 01:19 AM »

You,ve tried all??

even the high end air hammer/drill fixed with a 5 tonne press all jigged and framed on a miller at the back of it?

Pm,d u for a price of shipping 10 rivets to the uk.

Thanks

oberonspacefruit · « **Reply #18 on:** April 04, 2014, 07:04 AM »

that video looks like a toughprocess to recreate.....

Tapered... i thought i was going mad ive looked at that pic of a rivet 3 times now thinking, is it me? that dont look tapered....it must be very subtle...

fischflo · « **Reply #19 on:** April 04, 2014, 08:49 AM »

lol ...me too, but didn't want to say anything because you keep reading they are tapered

...and that the tuffs crack if you tap the rivets out wrong way around

thanks Waz for clearing that up.

So has anybody really ever get it done themselves

....? Pictures please, because i've read too that people supposedly have.

84freestyler · « **Reply #20 on:** April 04, 2014, 12:52 PM »

Quote from: oberonspacefruit on April 04, 2014, 07:04 AM

that video looks like a toughprocess to recreate.....

Tapered... i thought i was going mad ive looked at that pic of a rivet 3 times now thinking, is it me? that dont look tapered....it must be very subtle...

I,m hoping with practice we could replicate the same thing, some trial and error and Gerry rigged tools etc and I think its doable.. isn't it worth a go tho?

oberonspacefruit · « **Reply #21 on:** April 04, 2014, 01:01 PM »

everything is worth a go.

oberonspacefruit · « **Reply #22 on:** April 04, 2014, 05:27 PM »

Including this:

Aero zytec hubs. bolt on sealed bearings. similar to the aftermarket skyway smoothies, that were mentioned in another thread recently.

Look how thick this is, in comparison to a skyway hub.

if a small section of the nylon was removed from the "tubes" that carry the rivets, it would sit flush. the spindle in the centre of the hub is machined, so that the hubs will only bolt up so far, so that there is no excess pressure on the sealed bearings. In engineering terms, this hub is a better solution than skyways version.

84freestyler · « **Reply #23 on:** April 04, 2014, 08:52 PM »

I was always a fan of the aero zytecs, but never got around to owning a pair

MartyC · « **Reply #24 on:** April 05, 2014, 09:45 AM »

Quote from: waza007 on April 04, 2014, 12:51 AM

Guys !!!

I'm just laughing about all your theories.... Not to be RUDE to you, but ive tried ALL of the ones you have mentioned.

* You can NOT press the rivets as they will distort and crack the plastic!!
* The rivets are stainless which "work hardens" (meaning the more you hit or press the rivet it gets harder)
* They are NOT tapered
* Drilling or milling the rivets out of the old ones requires a carbide drill/mill bit (Stainless is very tough on bits)

/>

Interesting, then if they are not tapered why do Skyway warn against removing the wrong rivet head and cracking the wheel when removing it?