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RADBMX.CO.UK  |  Technical & Reference Section  |  Tech and Restoration  |  Resto
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Author Topic: Resto  (Read 4397 times)

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Offline ORB

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Resto
« on: September 22, 2005, 11:31 PM »
OK,

So I am all in favour of a full on resto in the comfort of your own home.

I do the lot from stripping the old crappy paint, to the complete respray and rebuild.

What part of bike building and resto do you find the hardest?

for me I have had 2 troubles.

1-  Stripping a frame and fork of its heavy powder in the garden (time consuming)

2 - A few years ago i had a profile crank that the arms would not come off for love nor persuasion, BURN IN HELL 
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Offline danny silverstreak

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Re: Resto
« Reply #1 on: September 22, 2005, 11:39 PM »
restoration - orb i havent a clue , it took me two days to find out that id got two suntour xc11 lh pedals - i thought me crank arm was knackered, as you will tell from my posts , i need help on the daftest of things

greentoad

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Re: Resto
« Reply #2 on: September 22, 2005, 11:42 PM »
Hi all  ;)

The worst part for me is the money.... I just get carried away and then that's it, it must be perfect, time or money no object, then it's too good to use so I usually put the item away or sell it. I've so far restored houses (some graded), motorcycles, boats, tractors and cars, but must say that i'm really enjoying the BMX side as it's small in comparision, and enjoyable building then getting a result fairly quickly.

NB - The best way to get stuck items off is by freezing them, you can get cans of it and it is amazing stuff, when sprayed the item comes off so easily (I can get some names if required).

greentoad

Offline beard1973

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Re: Resto
« Reply #3 on: September 22, 2005, 11:46 PM »
I have a Tange Framed Cromo Burner that has a seat post that just will not budge... I have tried everything bar heat or the cold method...

Tips??

(ps - Orb, i know its a burner!!  8))

greentoad

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Re: Resto
« Reply #4 on: September 22, 2005, 11:51 PM »
Hi

If your interested in trying, I can get some names of freeze cans that are used by engineers on site for major machinery work, and i'm sure would get a post out.

I wouldn't heat it though as the metal will expand and you could strech it (if heated too much), then it's serious work.

 ;)

Offline stidds

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Re: Resto
« Reply #5 on: September 23, 2005, 12:13 AM »
I do all restoration except for welding and powder coating.  However I am going to learn both skills soon.

Offline ORB

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Re: Resto
« Reply #6 on: September 23, 2005, 12:17 AM »
Welding is practice, PC is about having the tools.

Hope you dial it.

it would be nice to have a PC man on board.

12

theRuler

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Re: Resto
« Reply #7 on: September 23, 2005, 02:59 AM »
I have a Tange Framed Cromo Burner that has a seat post that just will not budge... I have tried everything bar heat or the cold method...

Tips??

(ps - Orb, i know its a burner!!  8))

tip a kettle of boiling water on the seattube mast (not the post!)  then get a fat ass pipe wrench on the seat post.

if you break the frame, you know it wasn't meant to be. every seatpost can be removed.

Offline oberonspacefruit

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Re: Resto
« Reply #8 on: September 23, 2005, 08:55 AM »
feckin seatposts. bastars. drips in paint. whores. fookin daddylonglegs gettin fecked up by the vapours and findin nearest thing to land on an ave a rest. asswipes. cat hair under decals.grrrr
I want to touch ORB

Offline ORB

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Re: Resto
« Reply #9 on: September 23, 2005, 09:40 AM »
No,

Seatposts are not that simple.

I have had 2 that were a real nightmate.

Ask Billy and Sanmarco.
12

Offline beard1973

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Re: Resto
« Reply #10 on: September 23, 2005, 10:47 AM »
This one of mine really does not want to move...

It appears to have become part of the frame and its in no mood for shifting...

I am tempted to give it to an engineering friend of mine.. But am worried it will come back looking like an exploded cigar!!!


theRuler

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Re: Resto
« Reply #11 on: September 23, 2005, 10:52 AM »
some are tough i admit

worse when they are sunk in too far to get a good grip on it.
fluted ones give you a channel to spray in some penetrating oil!

Offline mivvi

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Re: Resto
« Reply #12 on: September 23, 2005, 11:59 AM »
Problem I have had is cleaning the rust and shit build up from inside the tube, once the post is removed. A dremil reaches all of 1" inside, I even bought a flexi drill chuck thingy but its still too big to fit down the tube. Any advice lads!   :D

Offline ORB

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Re: Resto
« Reply #13 on: September 23, 2005, 12:10 PM »
you can get a wire brush in the shape of a bottle brush. they are good, better if you get a bit of derv in there too
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Offline mivvi

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Re: Resto
« Reply #14 on: September 23, 2005, 12:24 PM »
Thanks for that Orb, will have to keep an eye out for one of those brushes.

Another quick question, are the posts on most stems fitted by pressure or are they using the heat/freeze method. Just wondering it a reversal of this technique could be applied to remove bend/damaged posts?  Must be a tight fit taking into account the abuse they get.

Offline ORB

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Re: Resto
« Reply #15 on: September 23, 2005, 12:28 PM »
Yes they are (most) apart from the obvious tuff and pro neck.

I recon you will struggle to get it removed and reseated.

I would not trust a stem that has been fettled like that.
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Offline mivvi

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Re: Resto
« Reply #16 on: September 23, 2005, 12:33 PM »
Yea, know what you mean. Don't have one to do, just something that crossed my mind a while back. I expect they are splined also? Well I didn't know the Tuff necks were removable, will move up to these fine items one day!

aditup

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Re: Resto
« Reply #17 on: September 23, 2005, 02:34 PM »
I have drilled out a siezed post before, but beware of broken wrists whilst trying to hang on the "big mamma" drill you need to turn a 22mm drill bit. If the frame is going for recoat, heat is the only option. Hold the post in the vice, heat the tube, and use the frame for leverage. ALL POSTS WILL COME OUT, just sometimes at a cost. The frames no good with it stuck in, so what you got to loose? Ad

Offline sawzall

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Re: Resto
« Reply #18 on: September 23, 2005, 05:37 PM »
you can drill seat post out without killing the frame i did one for darren on a rickman he had ,took a few hours on a piller drill but worth it in the end just use lots of cutting compound
British race frames and race clothing wanted

Offline Steve P

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Re: Resto
« Reply #19 on: September 23, 2005, 07:12 PM »
Problem I have had is cleaning the rust and shit build up from inside the tube, once the post is removed. A dremil reaches all of 1" inside, I even bought a flexi drill chuck thingy but its still too big to fit down the tube. Any advice lads!   :D

Roll a FULL sheet of FINE emery paper round a long piece of 15mm copper tube or similar. Perfect for clearing all that irritating shite that siezes the seat post in. Spray the emery paper with WD40 to achieve better results too

Works wonders  ;)

Offline CD17

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Re: Resto
« Reply #20 on: September 23, 2005, 07:17 PM »
Welding is practice, PC is about having the tools.

Hope you dial it.

it would be nice to have a PC man on board.



We have Superbike Dan.

gjs

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Re: Resto
« Reply #21 on: September 24, 2005, 11:16 PM »
If you get a piece of wooden dowel that will fit inside the seatpost not to thin then staple a piece of rough emery paper to it and start an up and down and round motion ;) ;)

Offline Waxintaxin

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Re: Resto
« Reply #22 on: September 26, 2005, 02:32 PM »
DC , the post you are trying to remove will be an SR strongarm , its alloy with a chrome finnish and will have the 2 grooves either side. rare as fk posts mate . you will never find one

Rich 

Offline ORB

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Re: Resto
« Reply #23 on: September 26, 2005, 02:35 PM »
Bored on Sunday morning so,

Before....





Nearly there....

12

Offline oberonspacefruit

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Re: Resto
« Reply #24 on: September 26, 2005, 03:56 PM »
I want to touch ORB

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