Author Topic: Anyone On Here Do Re-Tapping? (Read 925 times)

Dannywhac · « **on:** December 07, 2014, 08:30 PM »

As per title - any of you fellas re-tap stuff? I've got an axle here that needs a tiny bit of fettling as a real small amount of the top thread on a female axle is a bit rough.

Cheers

Jaymz · « **Reply #1 on:** December 07, 2014, 08:32 PM »

What size thread my good man, some axels are shlts as they have really fine thread that's shallow, almost like an automotive thread, taps are damn expensive for them

oldschoolace · « **Reply #2 on:** December 07, 2014, 08:41 PM »

You could try some needle files. As Jaymz says, some taps/dies can be proper expensuve

Jaymz · « **Reply #3 on:** December 07, 2014, 08:45 PM »

Quote from: oldschoolace on December 07, 2014, 08:41 PM

You could try some needle files. As Jaymz says, some taps can be proper expensuve

that's what I ended up doing clint. Bought a set of wheels locally cheap, thought there was some profit in them, female axels, went to put the bolts in the one and thread was fooked, searched for two hours in our old a,chime shop through boxes to no avail, couldn't even work out what thread it was, didn't match fook all I had, high tpi, shallow cut, steep pitch,

Dannywhac · « **Reply #4 on:** December 07, 2014, 09:12 PM »

Cheers for the replies lads

It'll be a standard metric thread 1.0mm non-tapered - think it's an M10. It's off a G-Sport Fat Shaft MK1 hub, so George will have done em so's you could pop to a bolt shop and easily buy new ones.

Already broken the tip off two needle files trying to sort the fooker.

Here's the bolt that no longer goes in:

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oldschoolace · « **Reply #5 on:** December 07, 2014, 09:19 PM »

That bolt looks in a bad way but not beyond repair. M10 should be easy and cheap enough to retap but would try an m10 nut just to make sure it is what you think

oldskoolg60 · « **Reply #6 on:** December 07, 2014, 09:20 PM »

m10 x 1.0 is metric extra fine . taps are available off ebay, id get a plug tap as theres no "lead in" especially with it being a shallow tapped hole

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-0mm-M10-x-1-0P-METRIC-FINE-TAP-SET-2-PIECES-10MM-TAPER-PLUG-1MM-/161218908350

Dannywhac · « **Reply #7 on:** December 07, 2014, 09:30 PM »

Ta again fellas.

Yeah Clint, the bolts can stay as is (the knacked thread parts are where they go into the dropouts so all good there). Nowt but fun with this hub - someone had also pressed the cones on the wrong way round so the bearings were shot n'all.

Bit worried I'd bugger up the thread re-tapping meself.

oldschoolace · « **Reply #8 on:** December 07, 2014, 09:35 PM »

Bung up a pic of the axle that needs tapping bud, try and catch the threads in the light so we can see how bad it is in there

Gary72 · « **Reply #9 on:** December 07, 2014, 09:46 PM »

My Mum had a clear out the other week of loads of tools my brother had left in her shed, Pikey rag and bone man had a field day. My son bought a few bits home, Including a tap/die set if it is M10 x 1.0 I think I have one I could pop it in the post to you. Just send it back when your done with it

Ive done profile axles before, I bought a tap for that think it cost me over a tenner, But it did the job.

Dannywhac · « **Reply #10 on:** December 07, 2014, 10:23 PM »

Cheers for the offer Gary

And ta for the advice Clint, Oldskool and J - I've re-tapped Profile crank axles before but you can bag new ones if you fook it up so less worry that this bad-boy.

After rooting out me back-up needle file set, some copper-grease, molegrips and spanner she's back in now. A tad tight but I'll work it a bit to ease it (had plenty of practice at that

).

Still though, good bit of UK engineering from 1994

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oldschoolace · « **Reply #11 on:** December 07, 2014, 10:27 PM »

Never be bested, that's my thought with these things

Is that from his home workshop era then?

Dannywhac · « **Reply #12 on:** December 07, 2014, 10:58 PM »

Yeah Clint - he made em for about 6 months before going on to the Fat Shaft 2:

The 2's are fookers to get freewheels off though - to fit bigger bearings in he'd used the thread-in freewheel adaptor, the barsteward always comes out before the freewheel comes off. 9/10 you've gotta cut the freewheel off.

oldschoolace · « **Reply #13 on:** December 07, 2014, 11:04 PM »

Cool

love a bit of British ingenuity and engineering. The article in the Albion on him was really interesting. Something I could see myself doing in another life away from wood butchery

Dannywhac · « **Reply #14 on:** December 07, 2014, 11:14 PM »

Do it Clint!

George's a top bloke - even sent me stuff for nowt before

bobbbbsy · « **Reply #15 on:** December 07, 2014, 11:20 PM »

i ve had success with a juniour hacksaw b4 . threads really are not complicated things.

Dannywhac · « **Reply #16 on:** December 07, 2014, 11:24 PM »

Quote from: bobbbbsy on December 07, 2014, 11:20 PM

i ve had success with a juniour hacksaw b4 . threads really are not complicated things.

They are when they're on something you can't replace - adds a poopy factor.

bobbbbsy · « **Reply #17 on:** December 07, 2014, 11:30 PM »

mine had bits of metal pushed into the threads from abused top headset bearings and the start was all chewed up . i did it with a blunt blade and some love . the whole thread dos nt need to be intact . its the start thats most important like when you need to grind thread off 2 sides of axle because the dropout entry is tiny. trhe nut will still go on and spin all the way with 30 % thread gone . hope im not teaching you to suck eggs.

Dannywhac · « **Reply #18 on:** December 07, 2014, 11:32 PM »

Not at all me old mukka - I've done a fair few male thread repairs, but the female ones always give me the shits. Also all good info for anyone looking in without a set of needle files

bobbbbsy · « **Reply #19 on:** December 07, 2014, 11:34 PM »

probably am - had nt read all . soz