standard holes

[perry]

damn

slow speed , no pressre and it caught and snapped  , 6.5mm in a 6mm hole

its a hss bit too , but its ox platinum and its noticably harder to drill and grind

i thought id enlarge some holes id previously made since i had some new bts , shame they are nearly all blunt now

what are some good bits without spending serious money ? i had some ti coated in the past that lasted a while but i doubt even those would last long with this steel

can you tell the mrs is away 



ill weigh it once ive finished if i can find some scales

anyone know the weight of a 2005 250s in ox platinum ?

[harris]

why drill it matey   
just put on some lighter clothing   

[perry]

why do anything lol

to see how far i can take it

ive shortened the rear end to 13.6 too

its a spare frame and i want to get a bike thats lighter in both weight and pocket as my old blackbike stood me in at £1500 but im determined to get it lighter than that one

[perry]

done for now 

i did lose the 9.5mm too 

still to do

larger hole in the bb
larger holes in the headtube
tempted to cut out the gusset / put some small holes in the top tube and remove whats left of the seatstay bridge ( that might be detrimental though )

weighed it on the scales very inacurately at 5.4 lbs which is what the current model weighs lol and that hasnt got the gusset anymore and i have cups inserted , not to mention the latest has a much lower toptube









a fresh coat of gt85 and its ready to be built

[harris]

let me no if it folds up or cracks
as i have a 250 thats battered to death

[perry]

will do , thats why its raw 

when i cut the bridge last year to try a short rear end i thought it wouldnt last as all i ever do i drop off things , 180s both ways ( badly lol ) and brakeless tyre taps . so the rear shouldave snapped off by now 

a testament to standards build quality . ive only ever seen one crack and other than that the weak headtubes ( everyone had a sta or trailboss where i lived and most died with a flaired headtube )

[Lazarou]

Waste of a decent frame if you ask me. 

[dan-dare]

billy bodger

[perry]

hows it a waste , whats changed the ride ? its been in this state for near enough a year

id never sell it as it has no value

theyre ten a penny

it would be more of a waste if i bought a frame with a short rear and didnt like it

[harris]

perry you must understand that laz has sbc running in his veins
so its like sacrilege

[perry]

 

itl cheer him up that the only one ive seen crack was a mid 90s that is still being ridden to this day , just gets rewelded , it is battered to fook though

i picked it up cheap because i hate anything other than euro bb , for me at least , its no weaker so far but is a better ride because of the changes 

i know of a nos shorty , its not cheap at about £400 though 

[dirtyvans]

the tubes look quite large diameter, maybe cut them all out and reweld in smaller diameter ones 

[lazychubs]

does it whistle when ya do big airs lol

[perry]

big air    im in lincs , stand on a kerb and the wind blows you off it

oh if only i had access to a tig and space to put a jig  

ill do it one day , id start by putting the bottom bracket lower , then ditch the 25.4 seattube for a larger thinner tube , tiny 4mm dropouts , got a few new ideas for a seatclamp too

nobody ever cut metal that can recommend bits  

[lazychubs]

what about making a piect to weld in to the top triangle
like a flat arty bit

[Philbert]

fookin hell!

i'll tell you now that sbc runs deep inside me too so i don't like what you've done. thats my opinion!

in answer to your question i believe the 250s weighed in at 5lb 6oz in original format. or 5.4 lbs depending on what trickery you wanted say to make the frame sound lighter. which seems to be what most bike companies seem to be doing lately

[perry]

its my opinion that the terrible 1 rides 100% better so once i got that the standard was a liability 

i lack a mig and space to use it but i could have a mate weld me in a small plate , the cut in half bridge is far from neat and likes to collect dirt but was the only option

this is my kerb nibling bike so anything goes , ill be cutting the gusset out tommorow if its sunny 

its awful for trail riding but i have my unmollested t1 for that , ill never cut the t1 its far too nice 

every pair of measuring equipment seems different  im not bothered about specifics , i can tell its notably lighter in the rear and thats good enough

you got those lugs welded on yet lazychubs 

[lazychubs]

no not yet perry as forgot to take em to work lol
just telling me bro that ya gave em to me
cheers again   

[perry]

no problem , any time 

you know i want pics when its done 

[lazychubs]

no problem , any time 

you know i want pics when its done 

will be taking the t1 to work tue so hope it will be done by wed

[SaMAlex]

It does seem like loads of work and effort to make a nasty looking frame that is still above 5 lbs. Aint there loads of frames below 5 now, off the shelf? Why not get one of them and then get busy with the drill (obviously money is the reason there, no need to answer that)

[perry]

(obviously money is the reason there, no need to answer that)

 

this was a £50 ebay bargain bought based on its euro bb , 20.5 toptube and i knew standards were strong 

ive been waiting all eek for my latest purchase that got posted today 

i wont be cutting that  and itl even get a brake 

the only frames i can think of that would fill its place as a "street" bike ( ie not bothered about dents , scratches etc ) would be a coyote or an inertia and i know the inertia would be strong as i was mates with ant

i lived up the road from there

a lot of this is my mates trip to spain years ago but 56 seconds in is ant on his old lengthy , then again at 2 mins

/>
punkus is 14 and at 9 was riding lee musselwhites cracked london bikes

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bomber superstar lol

/>

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i might go back one day lol

[TwoBobRob]

Perry, your problem drilling is likely to be a sizing issue as much as owt else.  If you're after say, 6mm holes, then your pilot drill only wants to be 2.5-3mm tops.

Also, drilling by hand is always more of a pain. I would suggest you standing over the work and looking down on it. This would be more stable for you and less wobbling means less broken drill bits.

Dormer Jobber bits should be fine for the job, plenty of lube and try and find the optimum cutting speed if you can.

[perry]

cheers twobob 

i always go in increments and stand over the item if possible , i try and go slow but not too slow

the bits i used are silverline hss that were £6 so hardly quality and not a great loss lol

im sure there is a correct lube but would a water dispersant ( wd40 , gt85 ) be ok or even a chain lube

can i regrind the tips of the ones i didnt shear ? i usually rasp them on my angle grinder which works fine for a while , is there a better way ?

i wish i had a pillar drill  and a welder  and a bench grinder and a lathe and somewhere to put it all too lol

[TwoBobRob]

       You can never have too many tools   


As for drilling speed, the smaller the bit, the higher the speed and conversely so with bigger bits.  Assuming your drill has a variable speed trigger, play around till you find the cutting speed. you'll feel it, ther bit wont be spinning or grabbing and the swarf will be long strands.

For lube, good old fashioned engine oil, or 3 in 1 will do the job.  Even grease at a push.

You can reface your dead drill bits.  It's bloody hard to explain though.  In a nutshell;

The back of the face must be lower than the front, and the little straight line you can see across the point on the bit, needs to stay in the middle, so dont go crazy on the grinder.  It's all in the wrist action.......

You can buy yourself a drill press. They're cheap enough. Basically a device to mount your pistol drill in to turn it into a basic pillar drill.  Check out Machine Mart