Author Topic: Fitting Tuff 2 wheels - help, please (Read 2563 times)

GavinKent · « **on:** March 10, 2009, 07:04 PM »

Excuse my ignorance as been out of this since 16, and now 38. Trying to fit the original Tuff wheels I've just had delivered and the Aero Reflex frame seems to be too wide for the axles - is there a spacer or something that goes on the axle by the chainwheel???

stfc · « **Reply #1 on:** March 10, 2009, 07:08 PM »

how big a gap are we talking, if the tuffs are made up as standard the gap should pull in once the wheel nuts are tightened, or is the gap huge?

GavinKent · « **Reply #2 on:** March 10, 2009, 07:13 PM »

The gap is big and the frame doesn't feel felixible enough to bend in. When I put the wheel on the frame, you could only get a nut on one axle as the other wouldn't be long enough to fit through. The rear cog is flush against the wheel and the other side has a bit protruding, as does both sides of the front wheel - I'm lost!!?

HUTCHMAN · « **Reply #3 on:** March 10, 2009, 07:14 PM »

How's about a few washers?if I understand you right,you've got a gap between the cone locknuts and the dropouts.don't just tighten the axle nuts until all tight as you could bend the frame or crack a weld.

GavinKent · « **Reply #4 on:** March 10, 2009, 07:19 PM »

Right, I think I'm understanding you - I take it the cone lock nut is the one holding the cog in place? So yes, the gap is between that and the axle nut. I think washers would do it - is that normal then? I'm just worried now that either the frame is bent or the wheels are knackered and I've paid around £200 for both! When I was a kid, I used to know a bit about my BMX - you'd never think so now!!!

LOS1969 · « **Reply #5 on:** March 10, 2009, 07:39 PM »

just took my back tuff off my aero,11.5cms between frame on mine

snav69 · « **Reply #6 on:** March 10, 2009, 07:41 PM »

It should have a spacer like this

I think they did away with the spacer when they brought out the replacement axle kits , the cone nuts seem to be deeper on the replacements thus doing away with spacer

but don't quote me as i'm normally feckin useless

Paul

HUTCHMAN · « **Reply #7 on:** March 10, 2009, 07:49 PM »

Have you got a screw on freewheel or the earlier on that is held on with a large "c"clip?can you do us a pic?

LOS1969 · « **Reply #8 on:** March 10, 2009, 07:55 PM »

my replacement axlekit on aero
[

other side
[

]

GavinKent · « **Reply #9 on:** March 10, 2009, 08:11 PM »

Sorry, how do I upload pics - have taken some - says insert pic and just gives me a bit of text? i'm doing well here

mark 2 · « **Reply #10 on:** March 10, 2009, 08:16 PM »

Get a photobucket account , upload your pics to there and then paste the IMG code in your thread on here......

GavinKent · « **Reply #11 on:** March 10, 2009, 08:31 PM »

GavinKent · « **Reply #12 on:** March 10, 2009, 08:32 PM »

Plus I've just noticed (on second pic) that the metal star like bit on the axle is slightly bent in and not completely level - is this bad?

thanks

HUTCHMAN · « **Reply #13 on:** March 10, 2009, 08:39 PM »

Sorry to say,yes the hub flange is very caved in.the axle looks very,very short,perhaps time for a new kit,might have a longer axle in it(fingers crossed)good luck.

oberonspacefruit · « **Reply #14 on:** March 10, 2009, 08:43 PM »

that axle is too short.

dont panic, you can get skyway replacement axle's, or you can use a normal ountain bike one, if the cones are similar.

ive used both. MTB are nice and long especially if you run pegs as well.

that hub is bent.

there are ways to deal with that but its a bit complicated, are you mechanically minded?

GavinKent · « **Reply #15 on:** March 10, 2009, 08:52 PM »

I am fairly mechanically minded. The guy advertised these as excellent condition and I paid £105 with postage. As well as the bent bit, the tyres are cracked and useless. I wonder if I should be trying to get a refund?

oberonspacefruit · « **Reply #16 on:** March 10, 2009, 08:57 PM »

i wouldnt personally worry about the tyres, unless you particulary wanted that type.

Depends where you bought them from , ebay i presume. The seller may not have a returns policy, but you could try.

expect to pay up to 140 for blackalloy hubbed tuffs though.

you can fix the hub though.

thecrooch · « **Reply #17 on:** March 10, 2009, 08:59 PM »

yes defo - dont accept those - where they packed ok? was it off fleabay....

GavinKent · « **Reply #18 on:** March 10, 2009, 09:04 PM »

Yeah, off ebay. Feel a bit gutted as paid a lot and took his word for it as being in excellent condition. I've emailed and asked for refund. If he says no and I can't claim back through paypal, I'll have to make do and try to repair them. Shame though as I've been looking forward to getting these for a week! That'll teach me for being so trusting! As far as the tyres, well I was hoping to get some black ones with white walls, and the freestyle ones without the bobbles (or whatever you call them!). I should've researched this a bit more rather than jumping straight in - I've already spent £300 and I need loads more!!

GavinKent · « **Reply #19 on:** March 10, 2009, 09:05 PM »

And, no, they weren't packed well so could've taken a bashing in the post.

thecrooch · « **Reply #20 on:** March 10, 2009, 09:08 PM »

you are better off searching the classifieds on here....

you should be able to get a refund whatever..... youll have to go the through the dispute bit and it may take some time.... but dont give in...

tyres are easy enough to find especially on here.... dont be afraid on going for the chin shu copies or whatever as they are all just as good....

oberonspacefruit · « **Reply #21 on:** March 10, 2009, 09:19 PM »

whitewalls are easy to come by. Haro multisurface are good, but you can get normal whitewalls for about 20 quid.

to fix the hub, you need to either:

buy a new hub, which involves finding a hub kit, drilling the rivets, and refitting the hub with bolts.

Or:

dismantle the hub.

take off the locknuts, cones, romove the spindle, catch all the bearings, pry off the bearing cover with a small flat screwdriver or stanley blade. remove the bearing cups by tapping from the other side with a small bar, or carefully with a with a wide blade screwdriver or punch preferably.
do both sides.
Best thing to use to straighten the hub is a slide hammer, but if you dont have one, get a piece of threaded bar, 6 suitable washers, and 2 bolts.

put 3 washers on the inner face of the hub, 3 on the outside, thread the bar through, with a nut already on the bar, attatch the other nut from the outside, so that you clamp the hub in the washers.

its just a case of tapping it carefully fro the other side, until the hub is pressed out.

Even if you do this method, dont expect to ever be doing 14 foot airs on that wheel.

it will be fine for riding to the pub, the odd endo etc.

GavinKent · « **Reply #22 on:** March 10, 2009, 09:20 PM »

Yeah, I think I will try on here in future as at least here I gather it's people who are all 80s BMX fans and are pretty nice. If I don't get the refund, my next project is trying to carry out repairs to the wheels!!

oberonspacefruit · « **Reply #23 on:** March 10, 2009, 09:21 PM »

GavinKent · « **Reply #24 on:** March 10, 2009, 09:24 PM »

Are the whitewalls original 80s or modern? I'm trying to ensure everything is 80s on the bike, but wonder if I should worry with some bits. I've seen some tyres on ebay but they all go for around 50 quid. My Aero Reflex is going to have cost me about 500 quid by the time I'm finished!!

Will print out how to repair in case I don't get a refund.