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RADBMX.CO.UK  |  Technical & Reference Section  |  Tech and Restoration  |  2004 Euro Barcode.
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Author Topic: 2004 Euro Barcode.  (Read 1222 times)

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Offline Midschoolfool

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Re: 2004 Euro Barcode.
« Reply #25 on: April 07, 2021, 01:45 PM »
Cheers dude. I'm kinda all in on this one. By now I would have had it done tbh.

Apparently it's going to be 11 on Friday. I may be able to get the silver base down then. We'll see. The 2k stuff? that needs the weather to be at least 17. So that will have to wait. That said, that doesn't involve any sanding (just cleaning and tacking between the candy and clear) so yeah, getting the foundation down properly is the important part.

Offline Midschoolfool

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Re: 2004 Euro Barcode.
« Reply #26 on: April 07, 2021, 04:28 PM »
The wet sanding on primer has now finished.



Quick clean down.



Welding slag. I don't remove this or small dents.



P1200 wet.



Not sure when I can get the house of kolor down. Weather is simply too cold. Still, the dirty horrible shitty part is done  :LolLolLolLol:

Offline Midschoolfool

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Re: 2004 Euro Barcode.
« Reply #27 on: April 07, 2021, 07:47 PM »
Right I have done some videos today. So many people asking me about painting etc. It was spend about two days typing or shoot a couple of vids.

In the first video I go through wet sanding and the treatment of acrylic paint. This is important.

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In that video I wasn't in the best of moods. So there may be a few naughty words.

In video two I go over why you use a tack cloth and how.

/>
And in video 3 I show the bike now in base coat.

/>
I emailed the company who I bought the KHE cranks from, and it seems they are breaking the law. They don't stock them, they have them drop shipped and send them on when they arrive. Which is BS, and they have been holding my money for 8 days now.

This is why I do everything myself. Rely on someone else at your peril it seems  :rant:

So I bought some mid school Profiles.





They are a bit scabby, but cost ?45. There is a bolt missing, but tbh? if I don't have one of those I can get a pair of TI bolts for ?23. Either way a day's sanding and painting and I have ?150 cranks. Importantly there are no dents or dings. Just battered old finish and rust. This I can live with.

I asked my pal to run me off, and I quote "A couple of the stickers I drew".



 :LolLolLolLol:



Frame is now back inside and drying/hardening. As I describe in the video, it did flash off lovely. How? IDK. By miracle perhaps. But I will take one of those  :LolLolLolLol:

Offline Midschoolfool

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Re: 2004 Euro Barcode.
« Reply #28 on: April 08, 2021, 02:29 PM »
I think I have finally gotten to the truth of what happened over the Ruben. That "House of Kolor" Shimrin I bought is no such thing. It's not 2k, and as such when I put the candy on it simply melted its way back to the raw steel.



So that's a wrap for now. I don't have the energy or the enthusiasm to even touch it.

Online Picklez

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Re: 2004 Euro Barcode.
« Reply #29 on: April 08, 2021, 08:13 PM »
Gutting!

I can completely understand your 'walking away'. I had the same with a Beetle once. I always only every painted cars with 2K then one day caved in for a friend who really wanted his bug done cellulose (twot was all 'it's proper old skool that way). As I worked in 2k so much I didn't give the old paint two thoughts, to my failing.

Went cellulose high build primer, but through flatting 'broke through' in a few places. When I laid the first coat on the roof pickled like crazy. I was gutted. Left the workshop for a week. In the end I had to bare metal the whole shell  :tickedoff:. Taught me a lesson, 2k all day thereafter.

Good luck sorting it out. Keep the faith, after a good break from it that is  :daumenhoch:.

**** WANTED: Early black Comp ST's, Mint Black Shotgun 2 or OG Suede Kashi Aero, Titrons, Black-White/White-Black RadKaps. Thank You ****

Offline Midschoolfool

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Re: 2004 Euro Barcode.
« Reply #30 on: April 08, 2021, 09:30 PM »
It was a blatant con. One that will never happen to me again. I ordered this.



Noting very carefully the one in the middle. I used that when I painted my car 15 years ago, and it's the business. However, I only today spotted it when I looked close. Look at the label on what they actually sent me.



If you look hard enough you can see they have put a sticker on it that says SILVER. That is supposed to be HOK Shimrin 2. However, look closely at that label and it says "Wheel Silver" under the sticker. IE, it's acrylic. shit wheel paint you get from poundland.

How do I know this? well, because of my experiments I know that panel wipe (which is basically thinners) eats acrylic paint. Alcohol does not. However, on the reverse of that alcohol eats 2k and 1k paint, where as thinners do not.

And thus, when you apply 2k paint to acrylic this happens.



It just literally dissolves the paint on there right down to the metal below. And, because of that reaction? the only way to go is back to bare metal.

So fook Jawel paints, dirty scummy con artists. And fook "2k" paints in a can because they are just endlessly shit. I was going to jump on it tbh. Fold in the chain stays and throw it in the trash. Then thankfully I managed to calm down, after shouting lots of expletives and begin the soul crushing, mind bending bollocks of stripping the entire fooking frame back to metal. AGAIN.



I've also had a hour on the wet sanding too. I reckon I have another day of getting it back to raw steel, before I start again. Only this time? I am sticking to acrylic 100%. From reputable companies, not some dick wad on Ebay putting 99% thinners into a can with a tiny splash of actual paint. See, whilst I totally blame Jawel for this I also blame the company who relieved me of ?20 for that candy. It was total shit. I coated about half of the frame once and nearly all of it was gone.

It's a racket tbh.

The hilarious part is acrylics are really cheap for really good, quality paints. My DB cost me ?12 to paint last year.



And you know what? it wasn't perfect. Couple of dry patches. However, I was bloody proud of that. Same with the Fatboy. This cost me about a tenner all in.



The only thing I had not found at that time was a good, hard acrylic clear. Cue this, ?3.50 a can.



Which gave really good results. Way better than any 1k "will never harden properly" clear coat.

I spoke to Dan today. I was going to get it powdered. However, sadly the colour I want is only available through Prismatic. Which is not a huge issue. $13 for a pound. Problem is it's then ?30+ to ship it, ?30 to send the frame to Dan and back and then ?80 to get him to do his magic. I won't lie, I can't afford it. So I did some research and settled on this.



Which is tried and tested three times now. I fancied something sparkly, so I got this.



Which looks a bit OTT on black IMO. Over something light? it will be barely noticeable until the light hits. I already had the clear left over. A whole can, IIRC. So it's primer (got) the paint above (two "river" and the sparkle cost me ?20 delivered, with ?7 of that being DPD) and I already have a whole can of acrylic primer left over.

Honestly whilst I can't afford to pay Dan to do it like, today, I could wait. However, every time I have had a frame powdered I have been disappointed. Not in the finishers, because they looked great, but disappointed that I didn't do everything myself and paid out the ass for someone else to do it.

If it were any other bike I would toss it in a box for a few months and not care. But a code? ugh.

I reckon I should have it about ready to go back into primer tomorrow. I hope. Had an accident with the drill too. I had a 3m paint ripping pad on there and had the button locked. My hands gave out (arthritis) and I dropped it. Of course it didn't stop, it just ate straight through my shoe and into my foot.



But we fight on.....

Offline Midschoolfool

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Re: 2004 Euro Barcode.
« Reply #31 on: April 08, 2021, 09:49 PM »
Did some nasty sanding for about an hour. It's getting closer. Hopefully there's some of that really nasty stripper left for the welds. Will save me having to sit there with a Dremel getting peppered with wire brush bits.


Offline Midschoolfool

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Re: 2004 Euro Barcode.
« Reply #32 on: April 09, 2021, 05:07 PM »


Dremel work done. Welds are all clear.

One more sand and it will be ready for primer. Again  :LolLolLolLol:

Offline Midschoolfool

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Re: 2004 Euro Barcode.
« Reply #33 on: April 10, 2021, 04:49 PM »
And you thought you were having a bad week.









So he's either blind, or a fooking liar. That wasn't the best bit though. This is the best bit.





So not only are they full of dents, the axle has been destroyed too.

Offline Mikku

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Re: 2004 Euro Barcode.
« Reply #34 on: April 11, 2021, 09:45 AM »
If he was blind, he could still feel those friggin' dents! Sorry to read about this mate - this kind of thing really pisses me off! :2gunsfiring_v1:

Hang in there though, this is going to be sweet when it's done. :daumenhoch:
From Dorset to Japan:- http://www.radbmx.co.uk/forum/index.php'topic=182215.msg1828811#msg1828811
Ok riders, random start. Riders ready, watch the gate old guy make a fool of himself! :D

Offline Midschoolfool

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Re: 2004 Euro Barcode.
« Reply #35 on: April 11, 2021, 01:17 PM »
I almost gave up yesterday. Just sick of people lying. Why? had he been honest I wouldn't have bought them.

Obviously now I had a huge problem. A new Profile axle is about ?60. One with the bolts and shoulders? over ?100. That means the ?45 I paid? I could have bought some new school GDH. The bolts are 3/8 24 TPI, meaning nowhere in the UK just stocks normal bolts in that size. Meaning you have to go to them.

After speaking with my friend who has a hobbyist machine setup in his garage we came up with a plan. I got out my vernier, and the bolt hole depth is 28mm. So basically Profile bolts are probably 30mm or less (they sit on 5mm shoulders like this)



That was obviously the second problem we needed to tackle though. The first was saving the axle. I was concerned he may not have the hardware to work on toughened 4130. So then I got totally schooled. I mean, this dude even knows the chemical names for this stuff. Like, the actual steel, how it's made up and even its stock value  :LolLolLolLol: So he sent me this picture to ease my concerns.



So I'm like "Oh hey nice drill bits man". Only then he told me that is his collection of carbide and cobalt. The latter will eat through anything you feed it. So, I then hatched a plan. He was talking about helicoils and etc, I don't like the idea of that. I know Profile do a hollow cro mo axle. I know because it's about ?80. So the idea I had goes like this. Bore out the original holes completely (the 3/8 24 TPI) to 10.5MM. Made them through holes. Bore into the arm another 30mm, tap to M10. Then use 60mm bolts.

Which he said was probably the easiest way to go about it, rather than trying to put back threads that were destroyed. The only thing left to do then was vernier the shoulders I will need.



Get him to throw it into 3d to make sure it looks right and then basically just send the axle to him. Then order some bolts.



As you can see, the price is a lot keener than ?35.

I degreased the cranks and axle yesterday. Whilst there I found a stamp saying "USA". So these are unstamped Profile. Not only are they unstamped older cranks, but they are bipolar. IE, they have a sprocket mount both sides. Which, makes them quite rare tbh. Pretty sure I can fix the dents. The degreaser took off some of the crappy paint too.


Offline Midschoolfool

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Re: 2004 Euro Barcode.
« Reply #36 on: April 11, 2021, 05:20 PM »
Went at them earlier. Most of the dents filed and sanded out. There's about 5 left, I will just fill those.

Currently soaking in vinegar. Will leave them there til tomorrow.


Offline Mikku

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Re: 2004 Euro Barcode.
« Reply #37 on: April 11, 2021, 10:40 PM »
I don't have the balls, knowledge or skills, not to mention Gareth's tools to attempt this kind of thing but I'm in for the finish!!! :daumenhoch:
From Dorset to Japan:- http://www.radbmx.co.uk/forum/index.php'topic=182215.msg1828811#msg1828811
Ok riders, random start. Riders ready, watch the gate old guy make a fool of himself! :D

Offline Midschoolfool

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Re: 2004 Euro Barcode.
« Reply #38 on: April 11, 2021, 11:51 PM »
TBH they are nearly done. I gotta say, I was suprised how well they came out. thankfully where they had been smacked with a hammer (at the top) is very thick. So most of those were easy to file. They weren't that deep either, so most was metal sticking up.

I still need to clean out the welds with a Dremel, but not doing that inside again (not even in the loft, my carpet patch now sticks you in the ass  :LolLolLolLol: ) the wires from the brush just fly out and stick into everything.

Funny thing is I thought they were painted. So I took them down this morning and covered them in paint stripper. Imagine my surprise when hardly anything came off. They had the original powder on. So I had to sand them by hand. And rust? dear god. I have never seen anything like it. The sandpaper turned dark brown. That's why I have them in the vinegar, as I know if the outside was like that the inside will be as bad.

I have ordered some JB weld for the rest of the small dents. I will get that done tomorrow. Let that harden, then Tuesday before I go home I will smooth them off and maybe put some primer on (they flash rust sooooo fast). Will pop the axle in the post on the way home, then when I get back it should be done and back here ready to sort out. I'm currently waiting for paint, and waiting for the weather. It's freezing, we've had snow and hail etc. It's been nuts. Even today when I went out to put the stripper on I had a bobble hat on the lot and was still freezing. Madness.

All I need is like, three warm days, and I can pretty much finish all of the painting. The shit part is done (twice on the frame ffs).

Offline Midschoolfool

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Re: 2004 Euro Barcode.
« Reply #39 on: April 12, 2021, 02:09 PM »
Cranks have been IDed at last. They are Profile Madera.

https://www.profileracing.com/product/madera-protocol-ht-crankset/



Colors: Chrome. Black Texture Powdercoat, Celestial Wrap

That explains why the paint stripper wouldn't touch the finish. Seems it was original black textured powder.

Offline Midschoolfool

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Re: 2004 Euro Barcode.
« Reply #40 on: April 12, 2021, 05:17 PM »
Took them out of vinegar. Scrubbed clean with dish soap and greeny. Dried them profusely, shaking them so the water came out of the weep holes. Wrapped in fresh paper towel, put on rad. They flash rusted FFS. Realising I had to do something I tried out that etch primer I bought.



Before.



After. Look down the left side of the left arm.



Before.



After.



And before.



And after.



Minimal filling needed.

RADBMX.CO.UK  |  Technical & Reference Section  |  Tech and Restoration  |  2004 Euro Barcode.
 

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