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A bit of help / advice needed please

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GTnumber1:
the bearing cup needs to go back a bit too its not sitting flush at the top........... suprised no one noticed that  :daumenhoch:

ozone:
Kuwahero's solution seems like the best bet.  As others have said, using a chainwheel that doesn't require a top hat washer would also help.

Also, I've noticed that the split link is much thicker than a standard link - if you have a chain splitter you should be able to do away with that link which would help clearance at the back.   :daumenhoch:

Hope you can sort the chip out.   :'(

moley:
As other have already said!!

But heres my 2 penneth worth and a recap of other ideas.

1.   You dont need a cone spacer next to the top hat washer.   If the top hat washer is thick enough and the powerdisk has enough clearance then just use the top hat washer...........and if not then just use a thin washer (or a couple) to space it out more.   This will give more clearance but not as much as the super thick cone washer (as per kuwahero)

2.  Make sure your tire is central to the frame.   If you dont have enough clearance on the hub on the right then add a washer from the other side.   To realign your wheel (if its now not central and for a rider only NOT for show) then just true your wheel with the offset (pull the rim to the right).  This will get your wheel back aligned centrally.  MTB and racers are all done this way due to the amount of gears on the right side therefore the spokes are offset to get the wheel central.

3. If your wheel easily fits into rear axle with a load of slack then the slack should be taken up with spacers anyway NOT tightened up to squish the rear axle.

PS.   I dont think the chainring should be on the other side of the powerdisk.   

Jamroll:
All Sorted  :daumenhoch:
Thanks to all for the suggestions, i removed the cap from the drive side suck a spacer in and all is good again  ;)
Left the cone on the non drive side but removed one of the spacers, spacing between the chain stays and the tips of the crankarms is about 4mm and the chain itself clears the chainstay but about 3mm but it works.
Its a real shit about the paint, not the biggest of chips just above the bottom bracket on the top tube but i know its there, so off to boots i went with the original seat post that i used to choose the candy finish matching it up to nai varnish colours, security guard stopped me as i think he thought i was gonna set about someone with it  ;D Anyway found a varnish VERY close to the original so i'm happy  :daumenhoch:

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